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andyf

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Everything posted by andyf

  1. Beretta OU all day! With no trade in and £1,000+ in your wallet you are in a great position to get a decent Silver Pigeon. If your tempted by 'others' (Browning Miroku etc) just make sure you get a sporter, not a trap gun.
  2. Google 'shooters calculator' and then read & understand about near zero / far zero. You can set your own size 'tube' for the bullets flight, but you still a chronograph to make it worthwhile. It gives you the near zero range which is nearly always 50 M or less, so most ground can provide that distance for zeroing, and it's easy to spot the shot fall from there or just walk up and look!
  3. A gunshop around my way (long time ago), had a 6" diameter steel pipe about 3 feet long buried in the ground under the office floor, through the floorboards, it was filled with sand to about 10" from the top. So you had 3" of pipe poking up from the floor. I saw allsorts fired into that, including an L1A1 SLR and a 44 Mag revolver (shows how long ago it was), apart from the bang! all seemed to go well, can't see the 'health & safety' brigade wearing it today, or the neighbours come to that?
  4. In my experience 1" at 100 is a bit of a tall order with .22, obviously the ammo is the key component after the rifle/scope. Indoors may help, I have an accurate sporter .22 and using GECO 42gr solids I can get 3 or 4 inside the magic 1", but usually get a 'slight' flyer over 5 shots? I use a Sako Finnfire a Harris swivel bipod and a Leupold VX3 LRT scope, so decent kit, but still the 5 shot 1" group is elusive. Rabbits however are guaranteed 'toast' between 40 to yards!
  5. Forget it, importing firearms from USA is a dead end waiting game, what rifle would you be wanting to import that you can't get here anyway? The RFD route can be done, but my mate waited nearly 12 months for a particular Savage .243, all that time there was little or no feedback from the RFD, only 'should be soon', 'next week' etc. Just get a CZ Varmint and a decent scope, not much better than that around.
  6. I would go for the Sako Finnfire Varmint (or sporter), they stopped making them some time ago when they introduced the switch-barrel design, but have just re-introduced them apparently by demand? My Varmint is about 20 years old and is superb, accurate, good trigger, but maybe a tad heavy. The Anschutz 1417 is also very good, but one niggle is that the bolt can lift slightly when carried on a sling, and it wont fire until you drop the bolt properly again, but its not obviously out of battery, small point but I have witnessed this on several different rifles of this model. I had my Varmin
  7. 200 yard 17hmr NO, not just no WHY?? It's the same as milking the .223 at 600 yards with heavy bullets and a fast twist barrel, WHY BOTHER Just get a real 200 yard rifle to start with (i.e. .223, 22.250 or .243), why oh why bother with that 17 calibre 'mosquito' when the 'proper' thing is next to it on the gunshop shelf?? I can see why some people mess about with the above, because they 'can' but the trouble is others less experienced may actually believe this extreme nonsense and set out to do the same. Whatever, paper targets YES if you must but PLEASE NO LIVE QUARRY.
  8. Were are you going to buy 220 ammo? If you must have a Swift RELOAD, otherwise stick to a .223 or .243 or better still (my choice) 22.250. That said the Swift and the 22.250 are not easy to find in any sort of ' variety' in factory ammo, whereas the .223 and .243 are in every gunshop in the country in all sorts of bullet head sizes. AndyF
  9. That'll be a Wildcat Whisper I reckon, google it and have a look. Be ready for the £120.00 price tag though!
  10. Duff 17 ammo is not a recent aberration, I had one when they first came out, and my first lot of Remington had more than one misfire, I think it was that no powder was loaded, the primer went off and that was sufficient to unseat the bullet and squirt is 2" or so up the barrel. Like above I took to taking the cleaning rod with me in the truck just in case. I also noticed split necks on the empties, although that didn't affect the shot. Anyway I didn't enjoy the 17hmr experience much and traded it back for another 22.250. Expensive ammo, and not enough zip for foxes (my opinion on
  11. Hi I bought a brand new 527 in .223 (1996), it was my first centrefire, and whilst it was well made and felt 'right', I never managed to get it to shoot very well? I started with factory ammo, I think it was Winchester with 55gr soft points, 1.5" groups at best and even then I'd get the odd flyer 4>5" off in the wilds, but 3" was the norm for 3 shots at 100 yards. I didn't have a 'good' scope (Simmons Whitetail Classic)so maybe that was part of the problem? Anyway I started reloading, again first time, but no improvement, other than to confirm that some bullets perform better
  12. Whisper is a very well made piece of kit, I had one on an 17HMR that I no longer own, and being an 'over-barrel' style adds little to the rifle's length. Fully strippable with 'O' rings, all steel construction, basically a 'proper' design done correctly with the right materials. That said as a moderator a £35.00 SAK is just as good! You 'pays yer money' as they say.
  13. Problem is combo's are cast in stone, not like the circumstances you might need one, i.e. 410 .22 neither has enough 'zip' and never are Deer legal. .222 12G again clever if there were NO rules, but we are stuck with rules (No Deer). I have German friends who have,16G 7mm Drillings which are common, try and get that one past a UK feo?? So not a viable option under UK law (in my opinion). Shame but there it is!!
  14. Again, not tried Fiochi, but have found GECO solids really excellent for accuracy. Anyway I still have a load of 'old' Winchester Sub's to use.
  15. Very nice, but the scope is way too high in the mounts. Should be almost touching the barrel, your head position must be way off?
  16. Suggest you buy some top end 'target' ammo for evaluating the rifle. I know you will use Winchester Sub's on the 'real' thing, but good stuff like Tenex is a great benchmark as you know it's select. I have found 40gr GECO target solid to be exceptional (and it's cheap). As for leading up the bore I reckon 5>10 fired into the ground (mind your toes, 'Health & Safety').
  17. Just chuck it in the brambles, better than F###ing about with pliers etc. It didn't go off in your rifle so it's not 'live' usually no primer paste in the rim, if you must put it back in the mag rotated so the striker hits a different bit, then fire it into the ground, if it still doesn't go CHUCK IT IN THE BRAMBLES.
  18. Driven Grouse, are you Richard Branson? £90.00 a bird shouldn't you be buying a Purdey.
  19. Right: On an over under the choke barrel is the top, the open barrel the bottom. Likewise the Side by Side Right barrel open Left barrel choke. But of course multi-choke 'screw ins' trash all that and you can have what you like. But the standard is as above.
  20. As above, an FAC airgun will 'always' be one once it is changed, the value will 1/2 straight away. It's your gun, but I would scrub that and get .22rf instead. Cheaper and way more power.
  21. The .22 RF has run out of steam at 16", after that it starts to slow down again! I had my Sako Finnfire Varmint cut down from 22" to 16" and re-threaded via Martin Elworthy's gun shop in St Austell. Very neat job, still a tack driver, no problem.
  22. I had a Stutzen stock Bruno fox in 222 many years ago (1970's), it was the most accurate rifle 'out of the box' I've ever had (& trust me I've had a few), I only ever used factory ammo back then as reloading was a rich 'nerdy' guy thing in those days. Superb, no such thing as moderators in those days, but the 222 was only a little bit 'worse' than HV .22rf. If I could have an unlimited collection one of these would be in it, still a few around for £300'ish. AndyF
  23. Don't put lube near the sliding bolt parts, it'll just catch and trap the powder residue, and that will make matters worse than they already are. In a perfect world if you could squirt an airline into the open bolt area every 30 or 40 shots to clear the 'crap' that would be very helpful (but not possible usually). As said keep the mag's spotless, I kept my loaded spares in a poly-zip bag in my pocket to avoid 'pocket fluff'. Got a bolt gun now!! AF
  24. Sorry to say you may not be able to get an extended magazine tube for the gun you have. They are not a 'one size fits all' part, so if you get an FAC shotgun grant you may have to buy another gun. I know that the Hatsan extension tube & spring fits the newer Beretta semi's as the Hatsan is virtual copy of the Beretta (my mate has this on his FAC Beretta Extreema). Good reason too as the Genuine Beretta parts are £70.00 the Hatsan £16.00. I know Remington, Winchester and Bennelli also do magazine extender kits. AndyF
  25. Yes PANTS, only good for mice at 5 yards, try a cornflake packet in your shed and you'll see how PANTS they really are. The most likely 'proper' gun you'll find is a version of the bolt action BSA sportsman, they made them smoothbore, usually single shot only. If it has a 5 shot magazine then its probably a rifle that has been bored smooth after market, (doesn't matter). I've seen a few other makes that have been bored from rifles, but anyway all of them are no good at all, beware the barrel has to be longer than 22" because its a shotgun and lots of rifles are not long enough to start wit
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