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andyf

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Everything posted by andyf

  1. andyf
    Must be something else, most likely Scope and/or Scope Mounts. Try taking the scope and mounts off, also the rings off the scope, then 'start again' wind both the turrets fully all the way out and back, then wind them to mid position, re-mount from the ground up and re zero, if the groups are still cack. I bet the scopes had it. Brno's don't wear out or 'go-off', not in 22rf anyway.
  2. andyf
    Basically NO it's not worth it, that is if you don't shoot 1,000's a year, or you have 3" non toxic, or big bore 10g 8g etc. Lead shot is fairly expensive, and of course heavy, so you need to collect it from the supplier. A 'decent' reloading set-up will cost £250>300, but Lee Load-All can be got for £60'ish, plastic and basic but works ok. I load 12g heavy shot AAA, #4buck for Foxing, but I bought 20lbs of No5 and loaded up some 32gr game loads just for the sake of it, getting the powder can be a bit bothersome, Green Dot and HS4 are about. I make my own AAA & #4Buck in moulds bou
  3. andyf
    Simple answer yto simple question as asked: Humane dispatch NO (unless it's mice or shrews at under 6"). Do they cycle in S/A NO NOT A CHANCE. Basically they're no good for anything, I think the one's your looking at have the blue plastic see-through 'bullet' that you can see the shot through? Eley used to do an all brass crimped end version, like a long blank to look at, they were better, the shot were bigger if my memory serves me, but still 'cack' whatever you do. But don't believe me get a box and try them on a bit of cardboard at 3 feet ho! ho! Also remember to take your moderator
  4. andyf
    Lets hope you get on with your 'new' calibre, cos if you don't trading a wildcat (or a .204 for that matter) to go back to a 'normal' calibre, you might not get muck back on it.
  5. andyf
    The steel needs to be selected carefully, mild steel of any sort is no good for centrefires, trust me I've tried, the bullets go straight through even up to 12mm thick, thicker stuff doesn't fare much better either I had some 30mm thick billets, about 6" x 4" given to me. The strikes from my .270 & 7x56 blew 1" diameter silver craters about 1/2 way through, copper jacket material is welded to the steel, makes a good 'clang' and a shower of sparks mind. Someone showed me a gong they had made from some armour type steel, it had dents and splashmarks but was otherwise useable, he shot
  6. andyf
    Just make sure you get one that's BIG enough, at least a 6 gun, or you'll be getting a second or another one way to soon.
  7. andyf
    Best .22's in my SAKO are GECO 40gr Solids ('lead round nose' on the box). These are target rounds, so no use for Rabbits as they pass straight through, then ricochet all over the countryside. They are called 'Standard' velocity' and chrono at around 1,000fps so are just about subsonic but not quite, still nowhere near the noise of a 'proper' HV. But for club use and plinking none better, also they are cheaper than the mainstream Eleys Winchester or RWS subsonic's. For hunting I use Winchester or Eley Subs by choice, that said the 'newer' Winchesters are not as good as the 'old' Olin m
  8. andyf
    Centrefire ammo costs are NOT proportioned by the size of the calibre, so it doesn't really matter what you acquire. Your used to rimfire at £35 for 500, 20 typical CF cost around £25>30. I would always pick a 'common' calibre if you are going to be dependant on factory stuff, that would be .223, 22.250, .243, .308 and maybe .270. Most gun shops will have all the above in stock all the time, and have a choice of brand and/or bullet type & weight. As for your new permission, I would look at a .243 as it is 'usual' as a Fox round so if you don't have Deer at the moment you are still
  9. andyf
    You need to know what thread to have cut on your rifle, all moderators are NOT the same.
  10. andyf
    Yes,' where' is much more important than 'how big'. Footpaths, Public rights of way, roads, houses etc are all your enemy. Maybe someone already has or had permission with a 22 on this ground, maybe worth asking as that will certainly help. Whatever the more ground the merrier, it would really grease the wheels if you haver more than one permission especially as they are small (25 hectares). Anyway good luck.
  11. andyf
    Not withstanding the brand, you need to determine what you are going to be doing with your rifle. I carry mine a 'zillion' more times/miles than I shoot it, so a heavy varmint barrel, with a bipod, a massive moderator etc etc is all well and good, but it's HEAVY and cumbersome. On a range fine, but for Foxing a sporter weight barrel, NO moderator is the way to go (for me), the noise is not important as I only fire it once or twice, mostly hours apart, no louder than a shotgun anyway. Back to brands I own a Browning and a Sako (nearly a Tikka), both excellent, I also own a Heym and a Ruger
  12. andyf
    I had a CZ American Left Hand 16" carbine, great rifle (because all CZ rimfires are good). I wasn't too bothered with wind drift, but I had ammo problems i.e. no main powder charge just the primer pushing the bullet 3" up the barrel, easy to get out with a cleaning rod but you just don't need it! The ammo is also expensive when compared to .22 lr. 17 HMR, well like I say I 'had' one, I suspect you may well be a previous owner after a while, but at least there's plenty of used ones around, I guess you need to try one.
  13. andyf
    If you fancy something different (like I did), A Ruger No1 varmint barrel single shot is a way to look at, .223's are a bit hard to come by, but I have seen them around, (mine's a 22.250). The trigger is a bit 'tractorial' compared to a bolt gun, and fitting a bipod is out, as the barrel is screwed to the forend, but mine is deadly with 55gr Sierra hollowpoint homeloads over 'some' R15. I have a left handed RifleCraft stockpack fitted for spare ammo, and a Hardy Gen2 moderator, the Foxes around here run in fear of the above!! AndyF
  14. andyf
    Tried Yellow Jacket ages ago, look nice, big hollow point and a tapered cone shaped bullet, makes an impressive 'ker-rack' when you turn them loose. However in my rifles they grouped shot like a shotgun? Those being a CZ452 bolt gin & an Anschutz 525 semi-auto. Anyway I chrono'd them and they were pretty consistent so not that, so don't know? Anyway the CCI Velocitor your after are the best by a mile, in my opinion wait and try and find some, I got a 500 brick at the CLA about 5 years ago and still have a good few left, as I mostly use Win or RWS sub's. AF
  15. andyf
    I too have a FoxPro, the best I've tried, mainly because it has a remote on/off, loud/less loud & call changer. Bit expensive yes but very good, only downside is the remote only works (mine anyway) out to about 100 yards (despite the claim on the box out to 700 yards NOT) Also the batteries can suddenly pack in without warning, such that if i'm going out and I mean it, I always put new batteries in the call. Sorry I don't know about the U-Caller, that said I've seen them at the CLA etc and the sounds at least are spot on and at least on a par with a FoxPro. AF
  16. andyf
    I have found that bullet selection is the critical factor in reloading for a particular rifle. For example I had a Browning A bolt varmint 22.250 best bullet Nosler Varmint 50gr, now I have a Ruger No1 instead as my 22.250 and the Nosler bullets are all over the place no matter what I do, BUT Sierra 55gr hollow points clover leaf. My .270 likes 150gr Sierra soft points & my 7x57 likes Sierra 160gr hollow point. This is not a 'Sierra' advert just how it works out, I also have Nosler & Hornady in the drawer. AF
  17. andyf
    Bet the scope mount is too high, if you've run out of adjustment. You should run the turrets fully one way then back, and count the turns, then set the adjustment at mid point, then start from there. Also as a general point the object bell (large end) of the scope should be as near the barrel as possible and I mean 'near' 1mm is plenty. Long range specialists use MOA slanted rails to mount the scope 'uphill' so as to enable the elevation to max out at ridiculous hold overs, but that's not you. Fit low mounts, or get a new scope. AF
  18. andyf
    Have the 22 anyway, it's free & much cheaper to run than a 17, and in my opinion more 'generally' useful.
  19. andyf
    Same as the .22WMR mag, try anyone who sells BRNO. About £30 to £40?
  20. andyf
    I bet you had 'fun' feeding shorts into the chamber?? I tried once as I was given some old shorts, they just flicked up and away from the mag out into the wild blue. I think a tube mag rifle is the best/only way to use these little booogers.
  21. andyf
    I set my chrono up on a camera tripod as high as it will go, such that the 'sky screen window' is about 3 feet off the ground, I fire the rifle (or whatever) from no more than 2 feet away directly in the middle of the arched portion. Be careful of course to ensure the fired bullets are shot into a safe backstop i.e. a firm but absorbent bank of mud or sand without big rocks or other hard stuff that could create richochets or splash bullet fragments back into you or near bye personnel. So it's 1 foot to 2 feet away, clearly an airgun doesn't have any muzzle blast but a 300 Win mag does (o
  22. andyf
    I have a Leupold VX3 4.5 > 14 x 50 LR with the Varmint reticule on my .22 Sako Finnfire Varmint. Yes it's a bit over the top cost wise (circa £800), but it's really very good, I have Leupold's on all five of my rifles (1 Rimfire 3 Centrefire & a HW100 Airgun) had one on for over 12 years never shifts zero, and the adjustments are smack on. You pays yer money etc!
  23. andyf
    I've got some 'fancy' green deerstalking trousers that have waterproof patches sewn in on the knees and the 'backside', they are very good, but also very warm, so if your 'marching' they are way too hot, I only wear them if it's really cold and I am ambushing. Got them at the CLA Gamefair a couple of years ago (circa £65). AF
  24. andyf
    Yes that's quite a 'normal' feature, particularly on new scopes of 'modest' cost. The mechanism inside scopes is quite intricate and everything is tight and under spring tension, so the minute change of a couple of clicks doesn't move anything too far. AF
  25. andyf
    Don't chop the stock! You'll regret it. The whisper is a well made piece of kit, I had one on a (long gone) HMR, but if it don't fit the Anschutz get something else, there are plenty of high end mod's around. The good old SAK is cheap and cheerful but works a treat, but you want something 'posher I expect, the Sako is very good if you can get one I think they are sold under the Finnish brand name of Viame (pronounced Vi a me) much bigger than the Whisper, made of aluminium with plastic baffles, but mine is super quiet, and it's strippable. AF
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