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andyf

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Everything posted by andyf

  1. Don't know Anschutz as never owned one, but had a similar 'symptom' on my Sako Finnfire Varmint. The firing pin was broken, but still retained inside the bolt body, when the mechanism cocked it left the front part of the firing pin behind, I had no idea about this as it worked ok (plus I don't us my 22rf much). Anyway it worked ok until I dry fired it and the broken bit of pin flew off into the barrel and disappeared, after of course it wouldn't fire and that's when I found out what was wrong. could have been like it for ages or just on the day. £27.00 fitted for a new pin, which also ca
  2. Hey: 22 shotshells are really 'cack', no good except maybe a compliant standing still mouse 6 feet away. None the less the brass crimped type are hard to find and I have a few? Anyway try them on a 12g cartridge box at 10 feet and you will see how 'devastating' they are, (not). Just remember to take off your moderator, as if it has plastic baffles the 'devastation' starts there!!
  3. I think they do?? American 16" 22rf both Varmint & Sporter. That said I bought a 16" barrel 17hmr American, not for long though, no good for my 'stuff' that '17 was too expensive and not enough 'zip' by a country mile.
  4. I never 'detach' my scope no need to do such a thing?? If anyone touches my zero'ed outfit I'll break your fingers. No problem with your mounts, except the 'detach-able' feature makes them too high.
  5. I advise you to trade your 452 for a new/used CZ American LH 16". I'm also left handed (doh), the cost of getting it cut down & re-proofed etc is hardly worth the effort and you could end up with a brand new rifle for similar money.
  6. I have a Browning A bolt in .270, got it new about 15 years ago, excellent rifle I have several other rifles (not Browning's) and the A bolt compares favourably. Also I had a 22.250 A Bolt Varmint for a while, again very good, I only traded it as I'm a lefty and the '250 was a RH, the 270 is a LH. The trigger was only OK, and you can't get a drop-in replacement (like Remy's), but I fitted a Timney light spring and now it's just right, even compared to my Heym which is a top of the shop rifle.
  7. I've got an A bolt .270, retro fitted fitted a Timney spring myself, top notch. The only funny bit was the box that sent it to me in from USA, 3" x 4" x 8" long, inside was packed with bubble wrap, the spring was sealed in a polyzip bag and was smaller than that in a Biro??
  8. I had the same problem with an otherwise superb 452, it's the 10 shot Mags that are the bad ones, the 5's are fine. Sorry to say I could never 'cure' it, the only partial cure for mine was to load no more than 8 rounds. Another issue was somehow/sometimes the rim of the next lower round got in front of the one above and jammed the whole lot, the only way to resolve that was to slip the mag bottom plate off and drop the spring, follower and all the rounds through the bottom, IDEAL at night in the rain/wind. I just got a load of 5's.
  9. I have a Wildcat Predator 8 on my .270, very good 'all day' on a particularly 'barky' calibre, but heavy and bulky (a high seat moddy for me). My 'carry' stalking rifle doesn't have a moderator, 7x57 Heym, its loud but on foot I'm only getting one shot anyway. My 22.250 has a Hardy front ported Gen 3, supplied by RifleCraft, this is the best CF moderator I've used, in open country it tames the '250 to near a .22rf high velocity level of noise, also its light and compact. From my experience for CF 22's the Hardy is TOPS.
  10. Try and buy 17 Hornet ammo, or worse still the reloading components today, let alone in a years time when it's not the 'new game in town' anymore! The 22 Hornet is bad enough for availability, the .223 is only marginally more powerful than the Hornet and shoots the same bullets. 223 is available anywhere as are the 'bits', not sure I get the FEO or yourself on that one, you must have focused your FAC application in the wrong direction, but it's too late now.
  11. Its the 'type' of steel as much as the thickness, I was given 2 x 15" square steel plates, 15mm thick mild steel, heavy and just right? At 100 yards 22.250, .270 & 7x57 all went straight through making a roughly double calibre sized 'silver' hole. It didn't even make much of a 'clang'. Oh dear.
  12. 160 yard Rabbits 'easy' 17hmr. (yeh right) Check your range with a laser not your fantasy matey I don't think so. That's a long way, you can't even see a Rabbit properly from that far let alone 'head shoot' one, with a crap airgun scope. Don't get carried away with range.
  13. First time FAC, best to go for a .22 Rimfire & a 17hmr both with moderators. It's not just what is 'suitable' or 'best' it'll be what 'they' will let you have as well on a first time application, and the above should be easy. Personally I don't rate the 17 but it's probably best to get one and find out / decide for yourself, the two rifles will get you going with fac experience, and you can shoot all vermin successfully. Foxes are borderline, but up close perfectly ok. Centrefires can be got further down the road.
  14. The horizontal distance between the gun and the target is what determines 'how far' it is as gravity only works on the horizontal component. So if your shooting up or down at say 45 degrees the distance to the target will always be further than the horizontal distance, (draw it on a bit of paper). Some of the 'clever' rangefinders measure the actual distance, and because they know the angle up/down they calculate and tell you the distance as though it was 'level'.
  15. 22 rimfire sub-sonic, is in my opinion (for what that's worth?) small pest control supreme. 17 hmr ok (if you like that sort of thing) ammo is too expensive, and of late questionable quality (only primer powder loaded, pushing the bullet 2" up the barrel, could spoil your day). I can see the attraction to 'former' airgunners as the hmr makes a 12 ft/lb airgun look like what it is! But for me (had a 17hmr and don't now, no use) no thanks, too noisy and nowhere near enough 'zip' to make it more useful than a 22rf. If you want/need more 'zip' get a centrefire.
  16. Remington VSSF, that's the ford Mondeo of rifles, plenty about, and loads of aftermarket 'bolt on bits' available.
  17. Ase utra will be wasted on an hmr don't bother. I had a SAK on a 17 and changed to Wildcat Whisper 17, the whisper was a much more sophisticated piece of kit well made, and fully strip-able. Was it quieter NO? Was it better in any way? Not really, it looked better that's for sure, but a SAK is £40 the Whisper cost £120. However as you've not had FAC before, it won't be 'silent' in any shape of form, a very high pitched crack every shot, be careful not to annoy the neighbours (if there are any).
  18. My outlook on this; Clean the bore every 'enough' shots, that'll be what you decide. But DONT take it down to the smallest spring and allen screw, you will just burr up the screw heads and achieve nothing, except reduce the value by 'butchering' the outside appearance. Only the 'pretend army' brigade do that stuff (you know the ones who can strip it blindfolded like Rambo etc) oh dear, Muppets Use a bore guide from the bolt end and buy good (i.e. expensive) cleaning rods and brushes. Target shooters (not me) use lots of ammo, and clearly don't have much 'gun stuff' to do until the next r
  19. I've been reloading for 23 years, I bought a Lee Anniversary kit to start with and I'm still using most of it today! Sure I've bought loads of extra kit over the years, including a Lee Cast Iron press, because I found large centrefire brass was a bit 'much' for the aluminium press that came with the kit, you could see it deflecting when under stress. Also acquired an RCBS electronic scale, it's much quicker than a balance beam, & I weigh every powder charge. I actually only use the old press just for bullet seating now, I have both presses side by side on my bench. Lee dies are also
  20. Vmax are flat base bullets, I prefer boat tails myself, but that said my preference is ar*e because the Vmax shoot very well in my 22.250, and the Nosler ballistic (Boat tail) don't. Oh well.
  21. Dry fire all you like, won't make a jot of difference, what you should avoid is taking everything to 'bits' at every opportunity why some folk can't resist this I have no idea? Limit your 'fixing' to cleaning the bore and external parts of the bolt, maybe take the action and barrel out of the stock if it's wet through then wipe it with a kitchen towel and leave it somewhere dry to finish the drying off. The rest can look after itself, oh and never smoother everything in oil/grease etc, it's not a tractor or a shovel.
  22. Agree, not enough shot to make any sort of pattern. I experimented with large shot a few years ago, not scientific but generally as follows: No pattern, take ten shots at 35 yards maybe one will have half of the pellets in the 30" kill zone, most will have only 5 to 7 on the paper let alone the 30" circle and one didn't have any holes at all!! They ricochet very badly off hard ground and trees, and carry with power to over 100 yards. A tight choke actually opens the spread, a true cylinder gave the most consistant results. For the USA and 'home defence' I can see the point, a
  23. RUSTER oh dear. NO you cannot import one yourself! 1. You are not an RFD nor do you have an account with Browning UK. 2. Even if you were an RFD you would probably have to get an import via a larger RFD because Browning UK won't deal with you. 3. Even if you were a LARGE RFD you would be forced to buy (many i.e. 100 plus units). Just get a rattle trap Mossberg, that'll cure you of yearning for a pump. ha ha
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