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andyf

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Everything posted by andyf

  1. andyf
    Hi: Sorry to confirm, but 22.250 'once fired' isn't a starter, no bulk usage out there to generate the stuff. I have Winchester and Remington brass, both are fine, that said in my rifle (Ruger No1) the brass only lasts about 2>4 reloads then I get split necks, not a unique experience as I used to have a Browning A bolt Varmint in 22.250 and that split necks as well? Primers I use CCI No 250, (Bullets Sierra 55gr HP boat tail (1390), 36 grains of R15 powder).
  2. andyf
    22 Shotshells are 'shotgun' ammunition, so YES shotgun Cert to buy. There are smoothbore 22 shotguns out there, most common is the bolt action BSA Sportsman, it 'looks' exactly the same as the rifled FAC version but most I've ever seen are single shot only no magazine. However as they were fairly popular in the 1960's as a garden gun so enterprising gunshops cashed in on the tightening up of firearms legislation and began getting 'cheap' trade-in' 22's bored out smooth-bore and re-sold them as shotguns, so there are a lot of 'mongrel' shotguns out there made from allsorts, many have bar
  3. andyf
    Why not get the chokes bored out? Any gunshop will get that done for you for not a lot of money. Also the barrels are soldered together by the upper and lower ribs and just chopping the length down is not that simple and may involve extra working (and cost), like re-bluing and re-installing the bead. Really it's not a viable option for an old hammergun, other than you taking a hacksaw to it which will almost certainly render it worthless!
  4. andyf
    Nice job, have fun! Centrefires however will go straight through leaving a 'raggy' oversize hole, 22 rimfires are fine, just a small dent and the paint removed. 17 hmr & 22 wmr will 'probably' make craters 1/8" deep with a funny points in the centre from the hollow point. I had some 18" square 4mm mild steel plates, I painted a couple white and stuck the corner into the soft mud, at 100 my 22.250 hit just went 'clink' and didn't even knock it over, but made 1/2" copper plated holes. My latest effort is two 20mm thick steel plates about 8" square, I drilled 2 clearance holes near the t
  5. andyf
    I have a Foxpro FX3 as well, also got the Blackjack twirly furry rabbit head thing. I set them up in an overlooked 'corner' of a given piece of ground and I get hidden up about 75>100 yards away (downwind), to be honest my remote control is a bit unreliable unless the caller has new batteries and I have good line of sight to the box, so I set the volume when I put the caller in place and test it, it switches on/off ok. Anyway I leave the blackjack running but it's about 30 feet from the caller box and fully in the open, the caller box is on a pair of metal rods bent into shape that sus
  6. andyf
    What rifle you buy is up to you and your budget, but at the hinge part of the post, the calibre, the .223 is a very good choice and MOST IMPORTANT you can buy factory ammo (or reloading components) just about anywhere. This is not the case with most of the others, unless you have access to a very large and well stocked gunshop (i.e. Sportsman Guncentre @ Exeter). Not just available but available in varied bullet types and weights. So if you a practical type it's a no brainer, get a .223! I actually have a 22.250 but I reload, and also own 2 other centrefires so reload lots of ammo, but I w
  7. andyf
    1/2 means what it says, halfway between 0.729" and -0.020 (full choke) less than that, i.e. measured at the muzzle, it's 0.709". Full choke on a12G is 0.709" Open choke or 'Improved Cylinder' is normally 0.002" under that i.e. 0.727" measured. Advice get a choke gauge off of Ebay (circa £15.00).
  8. andyf
    Well: I suggest you put in a variation for 17hmr 'as well' as your .22. You can have both without a problem, I bet you'll find the '17 an expensive toy that's actually no good at all but that's only my experience, try it your self! AF
  9. andyf
    Ladds have a 'tame' gunsmith in tow. He took the mag restriction 'out' on my mates new FAC Beretta Extrema semi while we waited, and did a good job. I have always had good service from them, and I live in Plymouth so it's a bit of drag to get there, but up to now very good!
  10. andyf
    x6 Max, (if you fancy your chances try x25 and try to hold it still NOT off of a bipod and get the eye relief right with a £150.00 airgun scope). NO CHANCE, NO CHANCE AT ALL. Get a decent scope, i.e. it must cost +£500 then you'll see. AF
  11. andyf
    APEL mounts on a CZ rimfire, you are RAVING MAD of course! (Lock him up someone). Sports-Match have a varied and comprehensive range suited to CZ rifles. I use the 'set back' type, this gives a decent range to get the eye relief right, on both 25mm and 30mm OD rings. All for about £30.00 on-line. (APEL mounts on a rimfire YEH RIGHT). AF
  12. andyf
    Hi: YES Your VX-1 is fine, it's a entry level centrefire scope, not the best but perfectly useable on your 30.06. I have one, it started out (and gave good service) on my .270 Win, today it's on an HW100 airgun and it's still doing a great job. Don't worry about the magnification, high mag for hunting is virtually useless, laying down and resting on swivel bipods is all very fine and good (on a range), but in the 'real' world you cant see more than 30 yards from ground level. Maybe up-grade later to a high end Leupold or Schmidt, but for now learn your craft with what you have.
  13. andyf
    No, you don't need any 'extra' licencing (that's a relief eh)? You will however need to produce your FAC to buy expanding bullet heads (in calibres as your FAC permits) and primers, also expanding bullet heads are recorded on your FAC just like you bought loaded ammo. But powder, brass and other 'stuff' including FMJ bullet heads are 'free' from any licencing restriction.
  14. andyf
    Have a 'similar' issue with my Finnfire Varmint', the 5 shot mags are fine, but the 9 shot doesn't like it at all it jams when it feels like it, the top round seems to be 'angled' too steeply and crashes into the breech. Answer is to only load 6>7 rounds, so guess what? I don't use the metal £40.00 piece of sh*t only the plastic 5's.
  15. andyf
    Avoid high mag, green/red reticule etc etc. (rubbish Nightforce lookalikes). Airgun scopes are not really any good on centrefire rifles, but that said the 'high end' stuff available now is pretty sound, BUT they are made for 40>60 yard PCP's @ 12ft/lbs. A Hungarian Schmidt & Bender is hard to beat, but if you want to end up with a drawer full of 'crap' scopes like me, go ahead, I now have high end Leupold's on all my rifles (x6). AF
  16. andyf
    Parker hale are plentiful and cheap, but 'tractor' trigger, I know someone who owns 4 & swears by them! Last year I picked up a pre SR-21 Heym in 7x57, now your talking, at £675 I risked the barrel for that money, turned out to be a peach. But as the previous post say's (as long as the 'prospect rifle' not a nail), the scope makes or breaks the outfit. Get a 'name' centrefire scope, and you should be good to go.
  17. andyf
    If it's all you've got, then out to 50>70 yards a decent heart/lung or head shot will do the job. But NO it's no good for 'real' foxing, (even a 17hmr is marginal). A centrefire .22 of any variety is really what's needed, mines a 22.250. But it's up to you, keep the farmer happy then get a grant for a CF! But be ready for the ammo cost. AndyF
  18. andyf
    I have an old Beretta A303, excellent gun use it all the time, I also own 'decent' OU and SS.
  19. andyf
    Find out who rents the land and ask them if you can shoot there (if not very positive ask nicely if 'for now' you can cross the land for access). Unless they have a shoot, or shooting interests in time you'll probably get permission anyway, especially if your careful and let them see you regularly, complying with the agreed set up.
  20. andyf
    Cleaning rods, good (i.e. expensive) brushes & mops, bore guides, clean from the breech end only, decent solvent. Pull through's are for industrial grade guns and military 'gash', but if you think a fishing line pull through is good enough, that's your choice, it's your gun, (see why I never buy second hand)? Best of luck with that one!
  21. andyf
    Use cleaning rods and a bore guide, never use a pull through / bore snake in a rifle, it'll ruin the crown by abrading it as you can't pull it straight. As for bore cleaning frequency I do my .22rf about once a year, and the centrefires after 30>50 shots, and also if any rifle gets wet.
  22. andyf
    Don't whinge boy! A gunshop is just that matey, they sell guns to whoever comes through the door with a licence and some cash. Don't blame them, unless your a midget or giant haystacks you cant realistically expect 'them' to fit you etc. A Lanber is a mid range OK gun. Trade it and get something else (or pay mega$$$ and get a Rupert to make you one.
  23. andyf
    As a non user (but previous owner) of WMR & HMR. Ammo is way too expensive, nowhere near enough 'zip' compared to any centrefire, can't be reloaded. So there you are, HMR is a quantum leap from a 12 ft/lb airgun, but it's no 22.250, & that's a fact. 22WMR the rifles are cheap (guess why?). At the end of the day if you can get a 22LR granted you'll also get a 17HMR/22WMR as well (remember to put a moderator on your fac application, even if you don't want one) try them for yourself and decide. AndyF
  24. andyf
    When I said 'fine' I meant that literally i.e. it's not going to blow up, burst or yield any other catastrophic event, and I think that was your concern? As for it's effectiveness as a sound moderator well that's a different thing, try it on and off and you'll see what I mean. The supersonic bullet makes the crack you hear, not the cartridge firing, and this will be going on outside of your rifle so the moderator cannot 'moderate' anything after the bullet is in flight. The moderator will soak up some of the 'bang' from the powder, but there's not much powder in a rimfire of any type a
  25. andyf
    NO that'll be fine.
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