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andyf

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Everything posted by andyf

  1. andyf
    I had a 16" CZ American 17hmr about 8 years ago, mine was excellent, I bought a dedicated 17 'Whisper' over barrel Moderator to keep it as short as possible and it was very light and handy. I didn't particularly rate the 17hmr and after trialling it for a decent time I traded it after 18 months, but that said it did what it said on the tin, very accurate and a true 150yd+ Rimfire. AndyF
  2. andyf
    Mines a 22.250, but after many tries, with all the usual suspects (e.g. Nosler Varmint and Hornady V Max) I use 55gr Sierra GameKing. The best in my Ruger #1 anyway.
  3. andyf
    SSG are fine in a full choke, been there and done that, the 9 pellet 'pattern' though is a joke, in that is there isn't one, you could fluke a fox at 90 yards, then miss a static dinner plate from 30 yards with the next shot, but you only need one pellet to hit! However If you do try them be careful as they carry a long way and will ricochet off the ground and any hard surface all fly off over the place! AndyF
  4. andyf
    Anschutz 525, getting hard to find in good order, but the one I had (from new) in the 1980's was very good. The magazines are obscenely expensive, but work without issue. Like all semi's dirty 22lr clogs up the 'works' and this needs to be taken care of.
  5. andyf
    Yes that's too high, the scope objective should almost touch the barrel, sportsmatch 'low' should do it. I would get the reach forward version as well as this gives you more options to get the eye relief spot on, also if a rifle has iron sights fitted (yours doesn't) the stock is made to get eye alignment level with the sight plane, so high mounts mean you can't ever get the cheek weld position right, not so bad when shooting prone but no good when standing. You can use your set up ok, and you'll get used to it, but getting it 'right' will improve your shooting experience. AndyF
  6. andyf
    Hi, I've got an 'A' Bolt Medalion in .270Win. had mine for 12 years from new, great rifle and very accurate with my handloads, mine's got a Wildcat Predator 8 moderator, threaded onto the Boss muzzle brake thread. The 270 is a large and potent cartridge, and the A Bolt a small and lightly built rifle but even with the 'skinny' sporter barrel it shoots 3/4" 100 yard groups all day long, and has killed loads of Deer. The only improvement on mine is a very light self fitted Timney trigger spring, and the recoil is no worse than a 12g shotgun. Gets my vote! AndyF
  7. andyf
    Yep 50 yards for me to, I've found that a 50yd subsonic zero, gives a 'slightly' low at 100 yd zero using HV, (slightly low is around 1") so you can aim off just a bit with HV and still get a good hit.. As an aside many rimfire users get 'airgun' quality scopes in the under £150 range, and to be fair these are starting to struggle a bit past 100 because of limited optics. For a round that drops off fairly quickly like the 22lr some sort of Mildot or ladder ret is very helpful to get repeatability. So horses for courses. AndyF
  8. andyf
    Yes 'dry fire' your A301 as much as you like. No harm to be done, not much good either, but hey who cares. I prefer my shotguns to be parked in the cabinet with the action 'let go', OU & SS ought to be fired onto snap caps because of their design, but the semi-auto action is different and needn't have an anvil to fall on. Make sure it's EMPTY first though, or you might damage the backroom ceiling! Imagine having to explain that one to the missus! AndyF
  9. andyf
    My opinion only! The Hornet is too small and fragile for the Lee Loader. Yes it works, but you need a decent press and dies for the 'small stuff' even for hunting ammo. I use Lee equipment as well as the more 'exotic' stuff i.e. RCBS, and being an engineer I think I am in a reasonable place to know, Lee gear is perfectly good, my only reservation would be fine adjustment and first class repeatability for the ultra fussy or bench rest crowd. (that's not me). A Lee cast press is hard to beat! AndyF
  10. andyf
    I have telescopic Stoney Point (twin) sticks and have added the third leg, they are aluminium and very well made, mine are 10 years old now and as good as new, I bought mine in the USA for about £35, (I think they are 'badged' under a different name now as Stoney Point was taken over). Anyway, I rarely use the third leg as it's a bit of a 'faff' to set up, my wife uses it as a camera monopod instead. Of course a couple of 'sticks' various, inner tubes etc etc are also fine but they don't telescope down to fit in the truck or the cupboard at home, but perfectly OK, your choice. AndyF
  11. andyf
    Yes! First you need to spend £120.0 on a chronograph (still interested)? Then fire YOUR RIFLE across it with the ammo you use, and write down the result. Now the sums start, first multiply the velocity by itself (Squared, If you have a maths GCSE) Forget it now if you don't have any GCSE's!! Then multiply that by the bullet weight in grains (usually 42'ish) then divide the lot by 450280. The answer on your calculator is Ft/Lbs. Glad you asked??? AF
  12. andyf
    Had a17hmr when they came out, NO USE AT ALL expensive ammo, wouldn't kill a Fox with one shot. On the plus, it did do what it said on the tin, 100-150yds+ accuracy, but filled Rabbits with copper shards. Anyway I can see were someone who had a 12ft/lb airgun before would find a '17 fantastic, but not for me!! My 22.250 does all of the above, reloaded ammo is the same price, and no prisoners taken in the Fox Dept. Maybe the 17 Hornet has potential, but I won't be tempted. AndyF
  13. andyf
    The 'procedure' you obviously crave is to chamber them and fire them off. What are you on? There is no rfd rescue service get real buddy.
  14. andyf
    Hi: Yes go on and fire them, no problem, the brass case doesn't 'do' anything when its fired anyway, its just a convenient way of putting powder, primer and bullet in the correct order inside the barrel. I had 17hmr for a while, and I had ammo issues, mine was NO POWDER, the primer fired and pushed the bullet up the barrel about 4", luckily I was able to understand what was going on, stopped and used a cleaning rod to clear the bullet! Crappy Factory Ammo again! I've never had a problem with 22LR and I must have shot off many 1,000's in many different rifles, yes I've 'poppers' and 'cra
  15. andyf
    Posted this before, but!! My 177 HW100 carbine , owned from new, doesn't index when I cycle the lever, (well it does sometimes, but mostly doesn't) Yes I know I should have taken it back to the shop etc but I didn't use it hardly at all until I had it for 12 months or so, being busy with other shooting (Pheasant syndicate, Deer Stalking and so on), so I missed the boat on that one. What can I do, there can't be much wrong with it, apart from the index thing it works superbly and is the best airgun I've ever used. AF
  16. andyf
    You wont be needing any Mag above 6 or 8 for a Rimfire, and sadly the budget copies of Nightforce hi mags are no good anyway. Why does anybody need 10+ mag, you've got a 22LR not 338 Lap mag sniper rifle. My opinion for what it's worth (not much) a fixed 6x42 Schmidt & Bender with a No4 Ret can't be beaten. AF
  17. andyf
    Your 'dealer' is not cautious, he's just a 'dealer'. Breaking in a shotgun!! That's a new one on me!! He is more worried that 28gr clay loads won't cycle and you'll be back wanting a fix. Your gun should cycle on most anything especially a Beretta (not any of that Turkish cack). af
  18. andyf
    Well, the 177 or the 22? If I only had one airgun and I intended to hunt live quarry the .22 would be my choice. However I have amongst several other FAC centrefire rifles a .22 Rimfire for vermin, so my only airgun is HW100 in 177, its faster and flatter shooting than a 22, and for farmyard vermin it is just superb, at 25 to 50 yards it shoots like a laser. I'm not so sure about Rabbits (I've never shot one with the HW to be honest), but Rats and all birds are dead with a capital D. AndyF
  19. andyf
    Hi The Parker Hale 'grey' sleeved rod fits the .22/.243 and the calibre specific brushes, mops & jags have a matching thread, (and yes it'll do your .223 as well). The next size up is 'yellow' sleeved (.270 308 etc) and the thread is bigger, and so are all the mops etc. Bore guides can be got from Midway UK, but your 22RF will need a gun make specific bolt replacing guide, however you can get (I've got one) a universal centrefire boreguide by 'Stoney Point' (or whatever they call themselves now) that fits all calibre centrefire bolt guns as the bit that engages in the back of the cham
  20. andyf
    Hi: It a SCOPE by the way not 'scopes', there is only one! Yours cost about £50 new and is 'worth' £20>30 as long as it's ok, probably 10 to 15 years old. All of this type of stuff is mass produced in Asia and badged to whoever will buy a 1,000 or so. So no joy, it's just another cheap airgun scope sorry.
  21. andyf
    You need to ensure that the rifle is fully supported under the forend and that you can release the shot without any movement at all, the barrel must be totally free. I use filled range bags on my 4x4 bonnet. start at 50 yards (those '17' holes are very small to start with so try 'shoot and see' laminated target spots that splash a bright ring of colour around the bullet hole). When you have corrected the scope adjustment to get holes at the aim point, then move the target out to 100 and start again you should only need to adjust elevation, but at greater distance any small deviation at cl
  22. andyf
    As above, it's very clear and simple. The best way is to buy a 'proper' gun cabinet from a gunshop (or Ebay). Just make sure it is BS7558 compliant. No an old 'locker' from a factory will not do, don't even think about it, you've already got enough hurdles to jump without trying it on with a 'mickey mouse' tin box. As an aside you may as well get a cabinet bigger than you think you need (4-6 gun Min) as I can assure you it will fill up quickly. the cost difference between a 2 gun and a 6 gun is minimal if you end up buying a second it will cost much more. AF
  23. andyf
    Also, and I have been asked this before, as the .22WMR (22 Magnum) is 'apparently' just a 'longer' case than the standard .22LR can you fire .22LR in a .22WMR? (After all you can fire 'shorts' in an LR) NO YOU CAN'T, the WMR case isn't just longer it's tapered and thicker at the 'rim' end, I haven't tried it and neither should you but a standard LR will probably chamber loosely and fire, not sure if its dangerous but it's no good at best. AF
  24. andyf
    No, the mounts are the same, as Airguns and Rimfires nearly always have dovetail slots, Centrefire's often have a more robust system with bolted on blocks and other fixtures because of the recoil. Only check that the dovetail on the 17 is the same as the one on your airgun (should be, usually 15mm across the dovetail cuts, but some do vary). But no big deal a set of 'Sportsmatch' alloy mounts only cost £35 max. You also might find your airgun mounts are too high, as they needed to rise above the rotary magazine of your airgun. The scope should be as low as possible to the bore of the ri
  25. andyf
    Hi See above I told you not to bother with all this Cr** with a 22RF, 'And if u change magnification you will have to make another new mil drop/holdover chart' Have you really got time for CHARTS etc when out Rabbiting? (I haven't and I've been doing this for over 50 years, ask the Rabbits). NO YOU DONT your Rabbiting, 5 to 10 seconds to take a 50>70 yard shot (Oh hang on I must consult chart) not really. 'Muppetry' must not prevail. AF
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