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andyf

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Everything posted by andyf

  1. andyf
    Well done! Getting started is always a bit 'scary', but really it's quite hard to get it badly wrong or dangerous, at least with bottleneck rifle brass, you cant double load powder 'cos it won't fit in, (not so pistol calibres, so if you shoot them in a rifle ignore that, and be careful). The only fault I input early on, and still do even now years later was missing a primer, or not putting powder in an odd case. I have tried to fix this by extra visual checking and sequencing my loading block, but to be honest the odd one still sneaks in now and again, and I only load 20 at a session as
  2. andyf
    OK Hawkeye, point taken, but free lead, a shot maker and a 'proper' multi station loading press are not a given for most people, leave alone the set up cost. I think the original poster would be using a 'normal' amount of shells (maybe 200/400 a year maximum), so under those (and my) circumstances reloading 12g shotshells is simply not 'cheaper' than buying factory loads even when you buy 2 boxes of 25 at a time. Probably take you 10 years to cover the cost of the reloading gear. More fun, a good way to learn and understand ammunition and ballistics yes, the best angle I find is loading s
  3. andyf
    Simple answer NO, only starts to make fiscal sense for 'odd ball' shot sizes, and big/small bores (i.e. 410 or 8/10 bore). That said I load all my own 12g Fox shells using home cast AAA shot. I have been loading my own centrefire ammo for years, and started shotshells more out of interest than necessity. I have a Lee Loadall but I don't use the crimper, I use a rolled turn over tool, as the crimps my loadall makes are a bit oversize and the finished shells don't drop into the gun chambers, they have to be pushed in lightly. This has no effect on the cartridge they work fine, but I don't l
  4. andyf
    Firearms Abroad, oh dear. The problem starts getting an airline that will take firearms. If your going Boar hunting in Europe, or Big Game in Africa it's not to bad as that is a 'well trodden path', get a European Firearms pass from your regional Firearms dept. (its an extension to your current FAC) then start looking, virtual no budget airline will touch guns with a bargepole, remember you can't take a hatpin on a plane let alone a gun. Only mainstream big name airlines will help you. I've been hunting in the states a few times, and its just to much hassle to take your own guns, eithe
  5. andyf
    Hi: For what it's worth, for live quarry I now only ever use Sub's, either Winchester or RWS, but I have 'discovered' GECO 40gr target ammo in my rimfire they are the most accurate I have ever used (Sako Finnfire Varmint), but are solids and pass through Rabbits without slowing down then ricochet all over Devon/Cornwall so not much use there! However back to your original post, in my rifle a 'dead-on' zero with Sub's at 60 yards gives a spot on hit at 100 yards with Velocitor HV. That's it! AndyF
  6. andyf
    Hi I've had an A Bolt medallion Browning .270 for 15 years from new (the X-bolt is just the 'new' version), excellent rifle, one of the best I've owned.. As for thumbhole feels nice in hand, but a 'faff' to unscramble your hand to rack the bolt, for it to work (assuming your right handed) you'd need a right hand stock and a left hand bolt. AndyF
  7. andyf
    I would say get .22 every time, especially if your only having the one. I had both at the same time, but had owned a .22 for years before, the 17HMR was ok but the ammo is expensive compared to the .22, you can 'plink' all day with a .22 for not much money. Not so the '17' also it's noisy and if you have people near where you shoot you may start to annoy them. I got rid of my 17 and got a centrefire 22 instead, that's another leap you may wish to look at after a year or two on the 22 rimfire. AndyF
  8. andyf
    Hi I had my SAKO Finnfire Varmint cut down from 22" to 16 1/2", my reason for the 16.5" was that the SAKO has a twist rate of 1 in 16 (most 22 Rimfires are 1 in 14) and I thought at least a full twist would be the optimum, the 1/2" 'extra' was for the case of the cartridge as the barrel length is measured from the breech face to the muzzle crown, so I'd end up with a full 16" and one turn of rifling. With a SAK moderator on it's now back the original length. It shoots deadly one hole (5 shot) groups at 75 yards off a rest with GECO target ammo, and a consistent 1/2" at 50 yards with either
  9. andyf
    Hi: Yes dead right AR177, no 'software' 'hardware' or 'slightly pliable ware' needed, just put a sheet of A4 paper at the distance you require, draw a 3/4" filled in circle with a black felt pen, centre it on your scope, bang, then look at how high the hole is, that's how much you need you need to aim under. Simples. AF
  10. andyf
    I would of said that a second hand centrefire was not the best idea a few years ago. But now in light of experience I have changed my mind. That said you have chosen a popular target calibre, so a high round count 'well worn' barrel is more likely to come your way. Anyway, for what it's worth 'my' look list for a second hand rifle is thus: Look at the screws, if any are burred or damaged don't buy it. If the bolt knob is 'shiny' the woodwork is bruised don't buy it. Outside of the above look at the reality of rifles bought for hunting, most are used a lot for the first 6>12 months then
  11. andyf
    Hi I know 17HMR ammo is the 'same' price as 22WRM, what I'm saying is 22WRM is NOT a quantum leap from 'decent' 22HV, but Centrefire .223/22.250 is BIG TIME. So stay with the '17 or go Centrefire. AndyF
  12. andyf
    Hi I had a 16" carbine CZ 'American' for a couple of years, mine was pretty good (1"@100) and I didn't clean it all the time, only if it 'wandered' & that was typically after 50 or so rounds. If I had any problems it was 'duff' primer rings or no main powder charge on 'bad' ammo. As for the 22 WMR I wouldn't bother if I were you, my mate has an 'oldish' but tidy CZ WMR the ammo is very expensive and for what it's worth I can't see any advantage over a standard HV Rimfire. If you really want a bit 'more' maybe it's time for a .223 or 22.250 you'll need to become a reloader though. (An
  13. andyf
    Hi: I had a 525 back in the 1980's, I bought it new & had it for about 7 years. Mine worked best on RWS subsonics, and Winchester Lazer HV. Keep the bolt mechanism AND the Magazine clean and it will reload/cycle very well (way more reliable than a 10/22). I changed to a bolt rifle for two reasons the 525 was too long with a PH moderator on (and it wasn't a common thing to cut the barrel down back then), also it did start to fail to cycle just a bit to often. All up a good accurate rifle, if I was out for a semi I would buy another one. AF
  14. andyf
    Hi: Bait? Anything that's food, BUT MAKE SURE that they can't pick it up and run off with to eat it 'out of danger'. Peanut Butter is always a favourite (I don't like it so plenty to spare)!!! AF
  15. andyf
    Hi! I had a 17HMR for 2 years back about 5 years ago. I experienced a problem 3 times in maybe 1500 rounds, primer fired but the main charge didn't at least I was experienced enough to notice, the bullet went about 2" up the barrel and that was that. I was able to clear it with a cleaning rod. All of the above were 17gr Remington product. Oh dear!! Anyway I found the 17 a 'whimpy' but extremely accurate cartridge with no practical use in 'my world' so I binned it and got a 22.250 instead, I load all my centre fire ammo so no quality issues these days. Unlike the 17 I have ha
  16. andyf
    Hi: First time centre fire, is not the time for 17Rem. Obviously its your choice but my advice is stick to the 'norm', 17Rem is nothing particularly off the wall, but as a guide ask your gunshop 'what ammo have you for 17Rem in the shop now' and 'have you got brass, bullets, etc' I bet the answer is NO sir, but I can get it in #### undisclosed weeks/months. If your permission(s) is/are centrefire ok then for a first timer the .243 is a benchmark calibre, plenty of zip for varmints and deer legal on 100gr bullets too. Save yourself until you have some centrefire miles on the book, then '
  17. andyf
    Sorry bud but Lee don't do a 410 loadall. It's only available in 12,1 6& 20 Bore. The only 'easy to get' 410 press out there is the MEC, (See shotgunreloading.co.uk, speak to John Morrish 07974439329 top bloke). It'll cost you though a Lee Loadall costs about £75 brand new, a MEC 410 with all the bits and some basic materials will set you back £200+. So there it is mate Sorry. AndyF
  18. andyf
    Tried before, but any ideas? I have an HW100 .177 carbine, bought about 5 years ago now, BUT from new it didn't always index (Magazine rotating on reloading) when reloaded with the side lever. I know I should have taken it back to the shop, but the Air rifle was just a 'nice to have' toy I bought and never really used, so it's my fault as my time was taken up with pheasants and deer stalking etc etc. I can't see anything wrong? and NOBODY else who has a HW100 I know (and there's a few) have ever had any problem, let alone this one. I tried emailing Hull Cartridge as advised by a Gunshop
  19. andyf
    Suggest you talk to John Morrish @ shotgun reloading.co.uk got all the gear and best advice. Is in South Devon, but does postal. AF
  20. andyf
    Lapau is very good stuff, all of it (Brass, Bullets and loaded ammo). BUT I've found a JEM, try some GECO 40gr Target, I shoot a very nice tricked up SAKO Finnfire Varmint Rimfire, and of all the stuff I've tried (Including TENEX) the GECO cheapo target stuff beats them all. My rifle is used for vermin, GECO is a solid 40gr bullet, quite 'shiny' and hard, but unlike the cheap and cheerful Remington, stuff kills Rabbits well and it doesn't just pass through and richochet into infinity. Give it a try (circa £30 for 500). AF
  21. andyf
    The 17HMR does what is says on the tin, and NO more. I tried one when they first came out, nothing fancy just a BRNO American 16" carbine + a 17 Whisper Mod and a very 'Posh' Leupold scope. So how was it? 1. Good accuracy out to 150yds. 2. Killed Rabbits very well, BUT filled them with copper jacket shards. 3. No good whatsoever on Fox, nowhere near enough 'zip', shot all twice unless a close (i.e. under 100 headshot, nearly close enough for a RF .22). 4. Far too noisy when shooting 'in company' i.e. near houses etc etc 5. Ammo hideously expensive for what it was. So got rid of and go
  22. andyf
    Why not trap the Feral cats and release them? Then any Fox that comes along gets it? AF
  23. andyf
    Hi: It's virtually certainly your Scope and or (as well as) the mounts. Your rifle is OK, my friend has an identical one and it just fine, BUT he has a very 'fancy' scope on it, not saying yours is not so, but from my experience that's the problem?? AF
  24. andyf
    Hi: Easy to strip a '524', just follow your nose. You really can't do any harm, I had one for 12 years, great rifle, but didn't like grunge. Clean the c**p out every 200 rounds and Lub it with Olive Oil, no problems should ensue! I used Winchester/RWS subsonics all the time I had mine, just got fed up with miss-fires and got a SAKO Finnfire Varmint bolt instead!!! Andy F
  25. andyf
    Hi I have a 'new' HW100 .177 carbine, when I say new I bought it about 3 years ago and haven't really used it much apart from zeroing the scope and shooting a few Magpies in my back garden! Anyway, over the last few weekends myself + buddy have been gainfully helping on one of our Deer permission farmers with a 'cloud' of vermin birds in his indoor beef rearing barns (these are 'proper' barns i.e. 100 Metres square). Anyway my HW magazines don't reliably index (rotate) between shots, it is random, sometimes a whole Mag 14 shots will function OK, then it won't work after the first couple?
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