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andyf

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Everything posted by andyf

  1. I have had both, currently I have a Ruger #1 in 22.250. For the actual shooting aspect, the rifle is the most important. I reload and the 22.250 case is bigger, more robust and uses Large Rifle Primers, the .223 uses Small Rifle Primers, I also have 2 larger calibre stalking rifles, which (of course) use LR Primers as well, so purely on this basis the 22.250 is the choice for me. On a practical level for foxing I have used both sorts extensively, and to be honest they are both the 'same' at least on my patch? The only variance with mine was that the 223 performed best with
  2. My choice 22.250, but .223 is also fine. Both of the above are easy to get factory ammo for, usually with a choice of bullet weights and type/makes. That alone is a major thumbs up in my opinion. Plenty of rifles out there as well all the 'majors' do both calibres. Also reloading is the next step for any centrefire shooter, I've owned and reloaded both, the 22.250 is bigger the cases are more robust, and large rifle primed. the .223 is smaller, thin cased and small rifle primed, so from my experience it's a no brainer 22.250 with 55gr hollow points or Hornady red tip V Max.
  3. Used over and under. Not a trap gun, a 'sporter' with 28" barrels. At the end of the day what you can choose will depend on how much you are able to spend A decent used OU will be in the £400-£700, a 'fancy' Berretta will be £900-£1500.
  4. You need to zero with exactly the same make, type and bullet as you intend to shoot, if that's factory then the same must be used. The whole point of zeroing is to 'tune' the scope to the barrel & ammo. For a first 'go' with a newly installed scope, or a new / different rifle yes ok use Privi to get yourself on the paper, then chuck them back in the truck and use the 'good' stuff forever afterwards. From experience a finely zeroed hand load in my 22.250 cuts a single ragged 3 shot hole at 100 yards, Through exactly the same set up Privi 55gr FMJ looked like a shotgun pattern, it was so
  5. Just an aside; I use an RCBS 22.5 Degree taper reamer to deburr the inside edge of the neck, has to be done lightly and manually but the bullets seat very sweetly, even flat base, and it also gives the crimper a bit of leeway to do it's stuff. highly recommended.
  6. I have used Winchester Subs for years (25+) mostly because they were at worst ok and always available. They say that Olin Industries who make them have changed their manufacturing location, and that they are now slightly 'worse' than previously? Well I don't know, it's a .22 rim fire cartridge at somewhere around £45 for 500, so not exactly premium stuff to start with, so I tried a brick of Eley and a brick of RWS, and they both performed well enough for me, the zero point was even there or there abouts. So my opinion (for what that is worth), all of the above are perfectly suitable, no
  7. Ive just looked on Guntrader and seen new Blasers , tikka , Sako , and Anshutz . Yes muppet apart from Blazer @ £750+ Get a decent used Remy or Ruger in 223 or 22.250, I have a Ruger #1 22.250 it's a tack driver on reloads. AF
  8. Hi: .222 is ok it's just about identical to the .223, in fact if I gave one of each the only way you could tell the difference would be to look at the headstamp on the case. Anyway you have been a bit misguided, in that new .222 rifles are practically non existent, only Anschutz and some older Tikka & Sako's are worth the looking at (although a decent Parker Hale maybe available). Anyway, my advice for what that's worth? Change to a .223 or 22.250 (Best choice, again my choice). .223 & 22.250 plenty of decent factory ammo with a choice of bullet weight etc. Good luck! AF
  9. You must say the unrestricted FAC shotgun is required for 'the destruction of winged vermin' (at least in Devon & Cornwall)& no an unrestricted shotgun is just that, pump or semi. My shooting buddy has a Berreta Extrema on an FAC with an extension mag it's 8 + 1 on 2 & 1 /2" shells, front heavy and not my scene. But hey it's up to you?
  10. That's quite an 'approved range' you have there! Ha ha
  11. Hey: Big stuff eats the metal! My 270 & 7x57 goes straight through 1/2" steel doesn't even knock it over, just a 'click' @ a cloud of sparks (if its dark enough).
  12. Also put on a 17 hmr plus moderator as well (even if you don't want one)as this will be granted, and you've got 5 years to get one or not, but if you decide to the 'paperwork' is in place. You may get 'territorial restrictions' as it's your first application, meaning you can only use it on the land nominated, but these days (at least in my area) 'they' don't seem to be so pernickety about such things (mainly because they don't have the staff to faff about, so if your cosher in the other departments you may get an open ticket straight away. Make sure the visiting FLO knows that you are ex
  13. Hi: I have a set of RCBS 'Rangemaster 750' digi-scales, they must be at least 15 years old now and still performing faultlessly. Recommended with five stars by me! Beam scales are a right 'faff' but to be fair they get accurate results, but it got on my nerves after a couple of years. Anyway I bought a cheap 'coin battery' digital scale at first (about £30) and they worked ok when new, but the batteries didn't last very long and they refused to 'fire-up' if the workshop was very cold in the winter, I had to put the whole thing in my pocket for 5 minutes to warm it up, and when the
  14. When I said HV were only marginally more powerful than Sub's, my point is that when compared to a 'proper' centrefire fox calibre (i.e. .223 or 22.250)which can check in 1200 - 1400 ft/lbs then an something uprate on the rimfire rounds is neither here nor there. I've shot plenty of Fox with a .22 RF, and many more with various 22.250's I've owned over the years, but believe me you don't get many runners with a centrefire. Sensible max Fox range (My Opinion)for a .22 RF is 50yds but closer is better, a well placed heart lung or head shot will do fine, HV or Sub's won't make any sig
  15. HI; Yes the 'best' rifle for Rabbits and the occasional 'other' is without doubt the .22 rimfire. A few little hints follow: 1. An HV .22 rimfire is only marginally more powerful in ft/lbs than a Subsonic, yes it sounds much heftier but it isn't. The difference is in the speed and therefore the trajectory, so this actually adds up to that HV shoot a lot flatter, thus extending the reliable zero out by about a further 30 yards on top of the 75 yards of the subs. 2. Centrefire .22's are very fine and good, but they are loud even when moderated, and the ammo is horrendously expens
  16. Forget it Bud. You don't have somewhere to us it, it's not a shotgun so your 'mate' with loads of guns has no way of buying it for you as he won't have a 'spare' slot on his FAC for a .22 (and if he did he most likely wouldn't want to 'spend it' on you). Anyway look a 22 target rifle has no viable or practical use outside of that application, certainly not in some farmers field. REALITY CHECK: If you want to shoot you will need, somewhere to shoot, a gun cabinet, an acceptable person to sign off your FAC application, and you will be required to 'jump through hoops of fire ' with
  17. Bulk purchasing is the only way to get cartridges anything like 'cheap'. But it depends on how many you use or expect to use, unless your a rabid clay shot or you decoy pigeons on a weekly basis buying say 2,000 shells is a bit of a pointless investment. Also you need to be sure that the shells you buy are actually 'any good' for the application you are intending to use them on. For example 28gr plasi-wad 7 1/2's are fine for most clay shooting(these will be the cheapest), but really these are not ideal for live quarry, in my opinion and in my guns I want to use 32gr felt wad No5
  18. Reloading birdshot is just not economic, I have an extensive rifle cartridge reloading set up and just for the 'hell of it' got the cheapy lee load-all and some other bits in America and started loading some shotshells. The long and short of it is that you would need to make your own shot for 'nothing' to even start to make sense. Obviously 10g, 3 1/2" 12g Magnums etc and of course non lead loads are a different matter, but 6 shot pigeon / pheasant loads. I reckon 25 shells with 'bought' shot, powder, wads and new hulls cost around £8.00 for 25. That said I have messed around with se
  19. Cut shells, well I've seen the videos etc on YouTube. I reload shotshells and 3 different centrefire rifle cartridges, so I think I have some experience. I've not tried cut shells but I reckon at close range i.e. under 40 feet they would 'spoil your day' completely if hit by one? But as a proposition for sporting use I cant see any practical use or advantage to such things. That said I am sure they would fire safely through any shotgun barrel. As to the 'legality' I don't think such a scenario is covered by the Firearms Licencing blurb, so if you want to try it carry on. By the way
  20. Had a '303' in my cabinet for 20 years (other posh guns in there) superb never let me down my first choice for Decoying.
  21. .243 only just enough zip, (really only just enough), get a .270 or something close
  22. Birdshot, I use 32gr felts #5 shot, this for me is because; 1. I'm not a good shotgun shot & the killing power of bigger shot (I think) gives me the edge; 2. I have 'old' (1970's) non multichoke guns. For Foxing I reload my own in AAA & No 4 Buck with homemade shot, I shoot fox mainly by Rifle but here & there that's not possible. For the odd clay shoot I use 28gr 7 1/2 plasiwad.
  23. No No No Is that enough No's, sorry bud a 17 is only good for small vermin.
  24. Look at with a Leupold VX 1, that's the Ford Focus end of that brand, I had one on a .270 took the recoil with ease and did me well, it's on my airgun these days 20 years old and still going strong, around £250>275 new, I now have several VX 3's and a VXr. Splendid stuff Leupold all the way here. Bought mine in the USA when on holiday, roughly £ here = $ there so about 60% of UK retail.
  25. The case takes no pressure, it's just a way of packaging the powder & shot, the barrel chamber does all the work. That high brass is put there to make 'us' think that this cartridge is 'powerful' (oooh), nope complete nonsense just a way to make us feel better about the cost of magnum / non-toxic loads. I have fired loads of old and rusting cartridges, the only bad thing that can happen is that the primer is 'duff' and it doesn't go bang. I even found a live but colour faded and rusted 12g shell in the woods were we go pigeon shooting in February, so it was at least a year old as no
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