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longnetter

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Everything posted by longnetter

  1. Often ingesting fur will cause this in ferrets.....I'd take her to your vet
  2. If I was starting from scratch, I'd go for bodygrippers.........as it is I use both.....but the bodygrippers are first out of the bag
  3. I'm with scramble on this.....particularly concerning twine weight
  4. Nice job, mate and those slabs in the lower run will help to keep thier claws worn down
  5. 10 out of 10. much quicker to run out/pick up. Time it right and you don't have to run with it............err so I'm lead to believe
  6. got to agree with this the guild is great for learning/training but BTMR is the place to get work
  7. Very nice set-up there, mate.
  8. Don't set fire to your net, mate When I converted my nets......I took them into the school playing field...put down a marker...paced out fifty yards....another marker....laid the net between the two....fitted the end poles and trapped them down......spread the net as evenly as possible and fitted my other poles....the jobs a good'un....I don't use grommets or castration rings, much prefer cable ties
  9. No probs, mate. That was a very good review . I had trouble with knots slipping on grommets, tried castration bands but just wasn't happy with them. TBH i happened to have a load of narrow cable ties at the time and thought I'd try them on one net (I've got three 50 yarders) as they worked so well I changed the lot. Slipping knots aren't too much of a problem in daylight but they are a real pain in the arse at night
  10. Eight poles on fifty yards is plenty , mate. I stopped using grommets years ago and changed them all for narrow cable ties. I posted this once before and someone suggested they might snag but in over ten years with a quickset I've never had a problem and they move fairly easily when you're netting on soft ground
  11. For a lot of people using Talpex type traps is a massive leap of faith....it goes against everything you've learned......you've got to back fill the trap site......that's why they're so good in light sandy soils
  12. Agouti also sells an excellent 'starter kit' at a very reasonable price, well worth considering if you're new to net making
  13. This regulation calling for the sealing of entrances to the nest only applies to Ficam D because it's on the statutory label (law) Legislation also requires you to take all practical precautions to protect other wildlife (like foraging honey bees) So using a non-residual insecticide or Ficam D and sealing the entrances are your only options
  14. As moley said handy for under patio slabs, paths and very good under the fabric used under decorative bark chippings . Wouldn't use them for general everyday use tho.....take too long too set and check. I've also got a few No-Mols I use for the same purpose
  15. If it's your own private pond, I'd set up some permanent wooden tunnels in likely spots (so they become part of the enviroment) and just put the traps in when the mink show up. You can be sure if this is the second visit you've had, you'll have more
  16. Try national organisation of beaters and picker ups (N.O.B.s)....they find beaters for shoots.......just up your street
  17. I'd have him ....£65 for a PROVEN vasectomised 2 year old hob is a fair price
  18. Absolutely........welcome to Rip Off Britain
  19. I'd have a look around the game fairs mate, Liam and Sara Brinded are pretty good and if you catch them at a game fair Liam will even give you a practical demo.
  20. I'd go for 1 mt mate.........you can always make them shorter if that's too long....... it's a bugger to make them longer if they're too short tho
  21. I believe Killgerm are the only authorised importers of these traps (perhaps Steve Albano can put me right there) Get them direct from Steve Albano, mate............lots cheaper
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