Casso
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Everything posted by Casso
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never worked any runner on a slip, only when in company, to much fecking about , carrying lamp battery rabbits, last thing you need is to have to keep putting the dog back on and off getting through ditch's, gates, etc dog gotta learn to work loose, if you can get it into the mutt's head that if he's standing in the right place beside ya, only then do we proceed and only then will he get to work,,best of luck with it,
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to be in awe of vets was one of my big mistakes in working with dogs, some are good , some are bad, and the rest are just making up the numbers,,,
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Thats a cracking dog cleanspade, seen pictures of him on here before, you know exactly what your getting from a dog like that and thats 100% ,,
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The most important thing you can do for your pup once he's jabbed is socialisation, number 1, forget bout exercise, at that age he'll exercise himself, running round playing with things, Get him out with people , traffic, other animals, travel him in the car, break him to cats, walk him through town , people will make a fuss of him, its all part of his development Because by the time he's 16/17 weeks, the fear factor kicks in, thats when a pup starts looking at the world through fear tinted glasses, effectively he evolves a consciousness where he understands he could be prey for something bi
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Go with your gut feeling bud, if you,ve been in the game and know how it works, go with what ya think will be best for your pup, the only thing i would say is , he might be a mannerly little pup now, but after he.s had a taste of the action , it might be harder to rein him in ,the next time your in the field after that,,because his focus may be else where,,best of luck with him,,
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2 squatters sitting together, or what,,how'd she manage that,,seen dogs catch one with a bunny already in its mouth,,never saw 2 caught at the same time,,
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Maybe because i lamp mostly on my own , i enter the dog in a situation where i feel like i have some control of what happens, dont always work out like that, but i try to cut down on distractions, 1, your pup is watching the other dog, thats his only reference as far as tuning into something goes, he reads the other mutt like a book,, if the other dog is extremly excited , your pup will be too, when i take the pup out for the first time , i want him chilled out, listening to me and reading me,,what way we begin to develope an understanding of what is expected 2, the yapping is only energ
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it will make a difference at what age he's done at, those hormones or lack of them in a dog will effect how he feels about the world round him, his attraction to other dogs in a social manner will change, he will not as outgoing or feel the need to make contact with his own species and through that also contact with other species,,his drive is not in his head, its in his whole body , and his whole body needs to be there , to get the best out of him,,he will work alright, But you will always be asking yourself ,,How much better would he have been, if left as a complete male,,best of luck,,
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all your doing by giving him a heap of different things is educating his tastebuds, if the dog never got anything else only dry , it would not know that there is anything else out there,,get him back on the regular stuff, never had a dog starve himself yet,,Sounds like hes developed a taste for something else,,as the man said earlier, keep giving what your giving as long as its a good quality feed, the stand off is him or you, who cracks first,,best of luck with him,,
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Getting two dog right on the lamp is going to take you twice as long maybe longer, its all about experience, walking up on the rabbit with the lamp on is one way and not slipping the dog until he's sighted the movement of the fleeing bunny, the big problem with this is , the longer the lamp is on in a field , the quicker other rabbits are going to leg it , i only keep the lamp on for the shortest time possible, An experienced dog will run directly to his target, after a quick scan , bunny located , lamp knocked off , dog sent ,and lamp only switched back on when near his target, With a young
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I would reward her only for bringing it all the way in, the only thing is, the pup may need a focus point for the retrieve, pups dont understand feet and inches, i use the palm of my left hand facing the pup for retrieve and recall, she has to touch his nose to the palm for the exercise to be complete, that way the pup has a point of contact that he understands,,its also handy for recall because the dog is touching you not a few feet away if ya want to throw the lead on him,,best of luck with her, she looks a smashing little thing,,
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what sort of bond do you have with her , apart from patting her what sort of contact do you have with her, has she ever retrieved, a lot of questions asked on here dont have a simple answer,every case is different, seems to be sort of block between you's,,she doesn't sound like a high drive bitch,,what age did you get her at and was she well socialised,,i've always used play as a relationship builder between me and the mutt, but if she dont have much drive it might take a while to kick in,,i would encourage more contact between you and her on a daily basis,also try feeding some of her grub by
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you can use the out or give command, as a break from playing if the dog understands your going to give it straight back into his mouth, as long as he knows hes going to get it again, and will get to continue playing, only at the end of play give him a treat, and take the toy, dont worry bout commands yet, bud ,,the thing is , its not the toy that has to be the attraction , its the playing with you , that must be the most exciting thing, the toy is only a means of comunication between the two of you, and as he gets older, keep him on the lead when you play so he cant leg off with it, that way
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a pup uses his mouth to feel things in the way a kid uses their hands , think bout it what else can they use, his contact with you is through his mouth, trouble is , his teeth are razor sharp, i use a soft toy to distract a pup at that age, and play tug with him, it also plays into his drive, which is also a way of training him later, some people dont encourage a pup to mouth them , but its a connection i use to build drive in the pup,a pup with a high drive for play can be easily shaped into a willing worker,,
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at 8 weeks old , i wouldn't worry bout giving him orders yet, for the next few months just try an make yourself the most interesting in the world to your pup, all pups want to do is play, play with him , dont bore him, He will do things for food at that age because thats he's biggest motivation , its when he's a little older and motivated by other things , thats the time when you will have to hold his interest, if you can make yourself the pups outlet for his energy through play in his early months it lays down a solid foundation for a good working relationship in the future,,best of luck w
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had a lurcher years ago .just a bitsa breed.one day for whatever reason i had to shout at her.and fcuk me did she no start screaming no only that but she lifted her back leg and started to limp.me and my mate stopprd dead in our tracks.never seen out like that before or since..and we were on the public path people looking at us feking dog limping and screeming out in front of us. embarrasing but she did turn into the best dog i have ever owned R.I.P FLY Thats a good one,,just shows ya , you learn something new bout canine behavior ever day, must of been some sight,,
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Thats a terrific little bitch, smart, athletic, well trained and well worked, only one thing wrong with her and thats the fact that she not in my yard, sadly,,best of luck with her, fine bitch that,,
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Good write up and great result bud, sounds like he's coming good for ya, best of luck with him,,
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There's a great fight scene in the movie "OLD BOY" just cant get it on here, well worth watching, if anyone can throw it on,,
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Id swear that mutt has a smile on his face if anything,,
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A dog is a dog is a dog, he dont know jack shit, he dont understand anything bout earning his keep, how can he know he's a pet, how can he even know he's a dog, your projecting human terms into a canine mind, A dog just needs to feel safe, anything after that is wasted on him, in fact a dog kept outside will be more grateful for the little bit of attention you give him when he does get out,,rather than the pampered pooch inside who gets all the attention, The mutt kept inside will learn the your subtle signs that you dont even know your projecting,quicker,,but may not be as motivated to
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Fair play bud, its great when it all starts coming together like that, makes it all worth while, best of luck malt,
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Try to introduce a positive experience for waiting in the crate, start by putting him in and after a few seconds let him out and do something that really does it for him, whatever it is, playing is good , for a dog his age, gradually increase that time , leave the house, shutting the door and come back in and do something special with him, whatever you do with him when he comes out must be like winning the fecking lotto for us,, What your really trying to do is getting the dog to WAIT, if through waiting he gets to do something really positive at the end of it , he.ll wait all day,, for a do
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i would work on her conifidence, she seems a little shy, its the bite and hold action shes withdrawing from, get a tug toy or something covered in a bunny skin and play tug with her, get her to really sink her teeth into it and try to pull it out of your hands,,after she get used to that , introduce a squeaking noise during the game, until she used to the squeaking , while playing best of luck,,
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Do you think its possible over generations in an area thats lamped regular for rabbits to evolve a natural resistence to being lamped , that is young rabbits that have never experienced or witnessed lamping of any shape or form, but have an inbred fear or shyness of the lamp which is not learnt behaviour ,but has been passed on through generations, is it possible to have large numbers in an area, all of which are lamp shy,,? any thoughts most welcome,,
