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Casso

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Everything posted by Casso

  1. had a first x in the past, feet wasn't great, probably had more trouble with them than any of the rest of the litter because she threw to the terrier side, not very pacy and did yap a bit under pressure on the turn with bunnies on the plus side , no reverse gear with anything we threw at her, draw as good as any wheaton, 100% commitment, caught plenty of big game single handed, after a couple of seasons really fine tuned her game, hit cover like a train, retrieve spot on, no nerves, great attitude to work, we used to be able to show her a rabbit on the other side of the hedge, throw her over
  2. just as you said yourself, he's only a pup,and is easily excited, with more work he get's ,the more the novelty of fresh game will wear off, give him time..best of luck with him
  3. There's a number of things going on here , she's young, and she wont be experiencing much prey drive yet, but i would take the retrieve object out, when your out with her and just bounce it in your hand to get her interest going, just 5 mins few times a day, tease her with it, this will build up her drive for the object and at the same time her interest in you which is more important in my mind, After a few days teasing her , show her , tease her then put it down to her still holding it , let her tug on it , praise her loads, then when shes tugging like f**k on it , let her have it, praise
  4. There's a number of things going on here , she's young, and she wont be experiencing much prey drive yet, but i would take the retrieve object out, when your out with her and just bounce it in your hand to get her interest going, just 5 mins few times a day, tease her with it, this will build up her drive for the object and at the same time her interest in you which is more important in my mind, After a few days teasing her , show her , tease her then put it down to her still holding it , let her tug on it , praise her loads, then when shes tugging like f**k on it , let her have it, praise
  5. Dont agree with that at all,,,striking ability or timing isn't inbred its learnt by doing....the more access the dog has to game the better it will become...dogs overtime develope their own style of striking it comes with experience well undisputed at one stage i thought i could make it as a professional ball player, just keep practising over and over it seemed that was all that was needed, but in the dog world the same as our own , we are not all born equal, different mutts will exell at different aspects, some will always hit quarry badly and get tagged some will always strike right
  6. There's a number of things going on here , she's young, and she wont be experiencing much prey drive yet, but i would take the retrieve object out, when your out with her and just bounce it in your hand to get her interest going, just 5 mins few times a day, tease her with it, this will build up her drive for the object and at the same time her interest in you which is more important in my mind, After a few days teasing her , show her , tease her then put it down to her still holding it , let her tug on it , praise her loads, then when shes tugging like f**k on it , let her have it, praise
  7. I believe genetics plays a big part , working parents , bred to catch ,will pass on those genes to their pups, those genes the ability to catch is upmost in all top class dogs, On the other hand , no bog standard greyhound produced today, no matter what its won , is ever born to catch, likewise no collie no matter how smart was ever produced to do the work of a top class running dog the genes are not there, Having bred first x's in the past and perfect good dogs in there own right, are just not in the same league as a purpose bred animal, there just seems to be an inbred sense of timing an
  8. Great shine on that bitch, Stroller, ,she didn't develop that chewing grass, best of luck with her,she's a beauty
  9. the only way to spot a good man or woman with dogs, it's not in his talk , or what he says ,what he types or what he puts down on paper its always in his \her dogs and how much attention they pay to him, its a bond that words can't explain ,it go's way beyond , shouting or dominance or all the shite its a partnership that dont need words , body language can be the normal channel of expression, Total understanding on both sides,,
  10. she needs some sort of stimulation in with her,,things can be patched up but the problem in her head wont have gone away,,bones or an old football thrown in can ease their lot,,best of luck
  11. He will get better, the thing with dogs are they need to have an emotional memory of something before they can be stimulated by it, he is not going to be excited bout something if he doesn't have an emotional memory stored inside, something that aroused his drive, Once aroused he will never forget what stimulated him , the sounds , smells, position, area, the list is endless of what he captured inside revelant to the situation, Bascially with you need is to get him in where the action is when it happens, After that , he will begin to read the excitement off the other dogs in drive and u
  12. the way i see this one is, even when you breed from 2 alpha's , your still going to end up with a pack structure make up in the pups, it cant work any other way, the pups cant all be alpha's , a litter is like the spectrum of the rainbow from dark to light , hard temperment to weaker,,first litters of wild canines/wolves from the alpha dog and bitch will end up with pups many of who end up looking after 2nd and 3rd litters as aunts and uncles, while the rest are hunting, The pack structure will also apply to domestic canines, each litter will have its hunters and followers, watchdogs and
  13. The pups drive hasn't kicked in , different pups develop at different stages, its not uncommon for some not to expierence the emotion of their drive til 10-12 months, in the meantime try and get him focused on you by playing fetch or similar games, this will develop drive , and is great for bonding,,best of luck
  14. what pisses me off more than any of that, is the wounded birds ive found with bits shot off them,,i can honestly say in all the years ive hunted , ive never caused an animal to suffer a lingering death,,
  15. i think it depends on what form of hunting you do, a lot of lads dont consider a dogs nose as an important quality in a lurcher, a dog with a good nose given the required understanding to use it , is a god send in some cases, i think most lurchers have more than enough ability to use it but are not given the chance,,its part of a lurchers work thats is commonly over looked,,best of luck,
  16. YOU WERE SAYING MATT!!!!! shit matt, what went wrong,,having my head sorted next week,,,by paying for it with my winnings,,,
  17. as the man said , dont make a big deal of it, the dummy shouldn't be the main focus of desire, playing with you should be the deal for the dog, it has to be fun , if it becomes a chore for the dog , he'll opt out and find something else to do, the pup is coming to a stage where her drive is kicking in, use it to your advantage, tease her with the dummy and then hold it away from her , get her to jump up , plenty of physical contact ,it works wonders on the bond between you, run off let her chase and bump into you, then throw the dummy then run away from her, you see its not the dummy that
  18. she sounds like a shy type, built up her confidence, but it will come as she matures, shes young,,
  19. all that playing and f*****g about they do is part of drive in dogs its how the hunt starts in wild canines, they focus on each other and through that eventually something else becomes the focus for them , the reason they dont do it at home is because there is nothing to kill in the back garden,,i've always focused my mutts on chasing ball in the off season if not working , it gives them a focus for their drive which includes me, a dog is always happiest in drive, and when he's playing about with another dog , he's having a great fecking time, thats why the recall goes out the windows because
  20. you pay your money and you take your chance, you could get a bully pup or a houndy one, once the deal is done bud , its up to you to get the best out of her but the litter sounds like it could be usefull ,
  21. work is the best for any dog, but if not, i use 10/15 mins playing fetch with the mutt, great bonding experience, and good all round cardio workout, fast explosive sprinting and retrieving, perfect for lamping , which is my main work for my mutt,,
  22. the only way i would see something like that happening is collie bred animals,,
  23. dogs are by nature curious creatures, when you take them out they want to investigate everythings, smells etc,,let her sniff round and satisfy herself doing that for a while,,if everytime she comes when called , you pop her back on the lead shes not going to be too keen to come near you,, you need to make yourself real interesting to her to overcome her wanderlust,,,i would use a tennis ball or something similar,,call her and when she looks round , bounce it, you'll soon catch her interest, and if everytime you call her and she comes and gets to chase the ball, she will begin to show a hell o
  24. Good going bud,,had the pup out last night, took his first 2,,he's coming on , walking to heel on lamp, running the beam like an aul timer,,keen as mustard, i'll try to get a few pics up soon,,
  25. if your dog knows his job , dont think there is a max distance,,if you can see it , he will find it in the beam,,alot of it will come down to experience of the both of you working together, the only problem with long shots are keeping the lamp on something you cant really see once the action gets going,,,reflective collar on the mutt can help, it will give you an indication of where the actions at,,
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