-
Content Count
354 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Articles
Gun Dealer's and Fieldsports Shop's
Reloading Room
Blogs
Calendar
Store
Classifieds
Everything posted by Luckee legs
-
Ferret falling over and disorientated
Luckee legs replied to vfr400boy's topic in Ferrets & Ferreting
Sorry to agree with everyone else although i don't know what the symptom indicates. On one occasion i had a Jill who staggered a bit and circled but was quick on her feet, she had ear mites that were making her disoriented and she lived another year. Sadly when they are slow and staggering it's always been my experience it's a strong sign they are on there way out. I have a 6 year old hob who is showing signs at the moment . When he stops eating or getting up to say hi that's it. One thing I always try, in case they are ill with something recoverable, is rehydration. Human rehydration salts -
No need to waste, I always feed them to ferrets. Safe for us to eat, just usually too skinny for my liking?. I do clean them though to check carcass for secondary illnesses like obvious worm infestations, sometimes egg sacs in hind leg muscle etc
-
Definitely going to try the barrier idea. Like the idea of rubble or fertiliser sacks due to portability but plywood would probably work better. For bramble thickets I have a couple of tunnel cages and some very heavy gauge nylon purse nets that can be draped over foliage. Both work but neither are great. Even with a dog and range of long nets I have mixed success on these types of warrens, I put it down to the difficulty of moving rabbits generally in one direction and preventing them returning to areas already ferreted. Much as I dislike purse netting in cover, I find any nets you can someho
-
We have same pressures, myxi still pops up late summer although not wiping them out, RHVD seems to be about 99% fatal when it hits although thankfully that's patchy, I notice a lot more badgers around us. As for NV shooters, since the advent of 0.17hmr they can hardly miss, luckily they get bored every so often and rabbits reappear over time. ?.
-
Great approach to the sport. Mixing it up with ferreting and lamping for the dogs. Its a refreshing change from some of the BS about huge hauls of rabbits but no evidence. I have found a thermal useful for checking out fields but when solo there is just too much going on and I no longer use it for stalking them up. The dog has learnt that using the thermal means something is out there and I am picking a run, but he cant see it so starts pulling making it harder to put away the thermal and switch to lamp. If the rabbit sits then theres a risk when the light goes on he is so fired up he runs fir
-
Must admit that when I got my first lurcher in 1980 we never bothered about pads. 40 years on I look at the cracks in our dogs feet and feel the need to put something on so could just be changing attitudes. When I kept horses I found sudocreme useful and cost effective, have used on dog and ferret injuries, its well tolerated and could be worth a go on pads (just don't let them walk on carpet ?). If they are genuinely sore agree with above that fitness is something to build and be prepared to take time out if an injury is spotted
-
Trouble on the first night...
Luckee legs replied to Lampinglad96's topic in Lurchers & Running Dogs
Some good answers already. Be prepared she may be very careful running flat out with other dogs for some time to come. At that age I take the view ferreting is fine but be very careful lamping, If the dog likes ragging a rabbit skin and you can get someone to lamp for you I start by jogging along towing a skin and slip them at it. Looks a bit odd but its good play for the dog and you are engineering the play so theres no risk of failure and minimal risk of injury. best wishes -
Bad news, I was looking last weekend and realised I'd missed the boat. Nothing. Then this set popped up, bidding gone bonkers ?
-
I go to the vet after giving our dog a cheap non prescription tab, he puked badly.
-
Sorry to say my patch in East Anglia is the same. Just ferreted two fields where I caught about 20 in one day last year. Couldn't believe the dog was not marking but should have trusted him. Only caught 2 with 1 getting away . Minimal evidence of rabbit grazing so it's not they saw me coming ?
-
Quick dogs and big hares, although look like hares didn't have any good cover and that area was fenced. ?
-
I hope there would be no need unless the toe is knocked up and dislocated so severely that the soft tissues won't heal. Had this on a bitch in early 80s, toe was stuck up out of line with the foot, vet took middle toe off, although she was "sound" from a pet point of view it took the edge off her ability on hares so it wasnt a miracle cure. If the foot looks normal but the dog is not happy turning or obviously limping after a few runs I would give them 12 weeks on lead only. It's hard for you and the dog but too little time for recovery and you'll be in a cycle of sound / lame / sound / lame.
-
For many years I was completely macho about dog coats and apart from our one greyhound never used one. Older and wiser now, although my current dog doesn't need a coat it's bloody brilliant for walking in the rain, no more wet dog stink ?
-
-
Sorry to hear this, always sad to lose a ferret. Important you were looking after him until the end ?
-
So if he's 5 then it's possible he could be coming to the end of his time. I hope to get 5 years from mine, oldest was 11 but some have gone at 3. I've found even when obviously ill with cancer (seems to be usual end) they are initially happy to see you and get out. At the end it comes fast and they stop fluid and food intake and don't want any help. Last things to try, get some cats milk as they tolerate that well. One of the cancers they get messes with their sugar metabolism and rubbing honey on their gums can perk things up . Good luck
-
Some good advice above. I find they don't tolerate too much that's not rabbit or kibble but the odd egg, birds, liver etc fine. I always keep a tube of beaphar malt paste, useful if you need to distract or reward them and I also use small amounts with old ferrets looking skinny. Salmon oil can pep up kibble although not all mine like it. My old ones usually lose the odd tooth so I cut rabbits up to make it easier.for them and preferentially offer easy to it parts for them I have had the odd ferret over the years get abscesses from bones, shows in the cheek or throat so worth double
-
Easy for us to be harsh, I only let ours in the house once a year at Christmas ? so God knows what mine would do confined in a room 24/7. Unfortunately though, that ferret is clearly not happy. I only know one pet owner well and he spends a lot of time with his, playing with them, creating new spaces with boxes and the like, critically he walks them every day etc. If you get a harness plus lead and get him out and commit to finding a ferret mate then hang in there. Otherwise he will be happier elsewhere
-
Dorset’s getting hot again
Luckee legs replied to forest of dean redneck's topic in Lurchers & Running Dogs
True ? although the boring truth is the impact round here on opinions of running dogs is serious. If I didn't have ferrets there would be no chance of any legitimate rabbiting with the dog -
Absolutely, I use gloves. Prevents us getting an excess dose when treating several ferrets and agree it helps spread treatment around
-
Hi, it's a common problem here. Don't put anything on the tick. When I was a teenager we used lighted cigarette or painted various oils on them with a modelmakers brush. That was late 70s ?. Took ages and was unreliable. Much older and a bit wiser I use fine pointed tweezers, assuming your ferrets are calm get some reading glasses on and slide tweezers over top of body and head so the ends grip the front of the head and pull firmly. I also use frontline although it's a powerful insecticide and not ideal for regular use. Overwinter only I treat them every 4 to 6 weeks, actually my main aim is t
-
Don't have the answer but I've experienced a version of that twice so you're not alone. Not refusal to retrieve but dogs that had retrieved perfectly refusing to come closer than 10 or 20 yards. Could be complete coincidence but both dogs about 14 months and changed from soft mouthed to hard mouthed. Best I could do was work hard on recall, making it fun and doing some every day. It meant they at least felt obliged to come in close before dropping ?. I found one thing to avoid was going towards them and making to take rabbits off them before they dropped. Sorry to say neither retrieved consist
-
Agree that your ground is important. Most dogs are good in pasture grass or low crops where rabbit has a hard time if the dog turns it off its normal run. Different on short flat grass for example my current Collie x is totally outclassed in drag races with rabbits on local sports fields while a whippet cross I had many years ago was superb in similar circumstances
-
It's an upfront investment but I find them essential. I find some experienced ferrets tend to kill or lockon to rabbits in a blind end more often as they get older and it saves a load of time to dig them out. Only one wavelength on locator and I collar each ferret that's working, usually 2 to 3. Downside of one wavelength is the need to box up ferrets surfacing when I suspect a lay up to allow me to focus on the suspected layup.
