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Luckee legs

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About Luckee legs

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    East Anglia

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  1. Quick dogs and big hares, although look like hares didn't have any good cover and that area was fenced.
  2. I hope there would be no need unless the toe is knocked up and dislocated so severely that the soft tissues won't heal. Had this on a bitch in early 80s, toe was stuck up out of line with the foot, vet took middle toe off, although she was "sound" from a pet point of view it took the edge off her ability on hares so it wasnt a miracle cure. If the foot looks normal but the dog is not happy turning or obviously limping after a few runs I would give them 12 weeks on lead only. It's hard for you and the dog but too little time for recovery and you'll be in a cycle of sound / lame / sound / lame. I've been there and wasted more time than if I'd had the self control to stick with the plan in the first place
  3. For many years I was completely macho about dog coats and apart from our one greyhound never used one. Older and wiser now, although my current dog doesn't need a coat it's bloody brilliant for walking in the rain, no more wet dog stink
  4. Sorry to hear this, always sad to lose a ferret. Important you were looking after him until the end
  5. So if he's 5 then it's possible he could be coming to the end of his time. I hope to get 5 years from mine, oldest was 11 but some have gone at 3. I've found even when obviously ill with cancer (seems to be usual end) they are initially happy to see you and get out. At the end it comes fast and they stop fluid and food intake and don't want any help. Last things to try, get some cats milk as they tolerate that well. One of the cancers they get messes with their sugar metabolism and rubbing honey on their gums can perk things up . Good luck
  6. Some good advice above. I find they don't tolerate too much that's not rabbit or kibble but the odd egg, birds, liver etc fine. I always keep a tube of beaphar malt paste, useful if you need to distract or reward them and I also use small amounts with old ferrets looking skinny. Salmon oil can pep up kibble although not all mine like it. My old ones usually lose the odd tooth so I cut rabbits up to make it easier.for them and preferentially offer easy to it parts for them I have had the odd ferret over the years get abscesses from bones, shows in the cheek or throat so worth double checking for that Hopefully he'll be fine
  7. Easy for us to be harsh, I only let ours in the house once a year at Christmas so God knows what mine would do confined in a room 24/7. Unfortunately though, that ferret is clearly not happy. I only know one pet owner well and he spends a lot of time with his, playing with them, creating new spaces with boxes and the like, critically he walks them every day etc. If you get a harness plus lead and get him out and commit to finding a ferret mate then hang in there. Otherwise he will be happier elsewhere
  8. True although the boring truth is the impact round here on opinions of running dogs is serious. If I didn't have ferrets there would be no chance of any legitimate rabbiting with the dog
  9. Got mine from flashaholics, they usually have a discount code something like flash5 , they change codes but 5 mins googling should find the latest
  10. If it's something for a few opportunitistic runs then absolutely agree on Fenix HT18, although the headline price is ugly, it's a genuinely useful beam for lamping, fits in a pocket and easy to charge via USB. Only criticisms are the lumen button is hard to find in the dark (although it remembers settings so I leave it on high and also keep a low power torch handy.) and it's so handy Mrs L uses it then complains the dog is wired if she takes him out at night
  11. Absolutely, I use gloves. Prevents us getting an excess dose when treating several ferrets and agree it helps spread treatment around
  12. Hi, it's a common problem here. Don't put anything on the tick. When I was a teenager we used lighted cigarette or painted various oils on them with a modelmakers brush. That was late 70s . Took ages and was unreliable. Much older and a bit wiser I use fine pointed tweezers, assuming your ferrets are calm get some reading glasses on and slide tweezers over top of body and head so the ends grip the front of the head and pull firmly. I also use frontline although it's a powerful insecticide and not ideal for regular use. Overwinter only I treat them every 4 to 6 weeks, actually my main aim is to reduce fleas which are also a PIA. It's "off label" so be careful with dosing. If you can get it without a vet visit then you'll need a calculator to guesstimate how many spray pumps to give them based on bodyweight, I then brush it over them. The insecticide is in a volatile solvent which the don't like on bare skin.
  13. Don't have the answer but I've experienced a version of that twice so you're not alone. Not refusal to retrieve but dogs that had retrieved perfectly refusing to come closer than 10 or 20 yards. Could be complete coincidence but both dogs about 14 months and changed from soft mouthed to hard mouthed. Best I could do was work hard on recall, making it fun and doing some every day. It meant they at least felt obliged to come in close before dropping . I found one thing to avoid was going towards them and making to take rabbits off them before they dropped. Sorry to say neither retrieved consistently again .
  14. Agree that your ground is important. Most dogs are good in pasture grass or low crops where rabbit has a hard time if the dog turns it off its normal run. Different on short flat grass for example my current Collie x is totally outclassed in drag races with rabbits on local sports fields while a whippet cross I had many years ago was superb in similar circumstances
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