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stubby

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Everything posted by stubby

  1. WHY why with so many ferrets about, would you give advice for someone to breed from a hob, before getting him the snip, I could understand if it was a dog,
  2. Hi Will... i'm assumin you're talkin about the lil guy you got from me... lol... and yeah the whole lot dont enjoy their kibble much unless i disguise it .. which i do from time to time, so that if there is an emergency or unforseen circumstance that means i feed only kibble... they will know its food! here's what to do ... in the morning get out whatever meat you're planning on feeding and liquidize it if its rabbit ... or chop it very fine... mince would do here too... you're gonna want 3/4 meat and 1/4 kibble.. set the kibble to soak for about 10 min in some warm water
  3. I have a castrated hob (hoblett) that will ferret fine, or be lazy and chill out with jills and kitts, I do belive you need to watch their food intact, as they do tend to pig out a bit if they can get away with it, if anything, he'll get a bit of excerise
  4. yes mate, a mk3 collar will be picked up by a mk1 locator, its a slower knock, so you can distinguish between a mk1 and mk3 collar if your using both, and its only about a foot out on the depth dial
  5. anytime, once he's got a set of balls on him
  6. why fill holes in, making hard work for yourself, and potential stop ends for bolting rabbits and ferrets to be dug out as already described, longnet encircled, a few purse nets if needed, bobs ya uncle
  7. Im not going to start saying that dry is no good, as I use it myself, but only as a supplement, a jill and 5 kitts in my eyes be getting at least half a rabbit per day, 7 days a week, any that was left (normally none) would be removed the next morning, its amazing how quick, flies will lay eggs on raw meat, therefore having meat only in the hutch/court in the hours of darkness greatly reduce that,
  8. do a search on this section mate, top right of page, loads has been written on court building, pictures and everything
  9. having hobs castrated then finding them to be good workers, aint so much the bad thing, as a ferret could be worked upto an old age, breeding from it is not that neccessary, but what does sound silly, is going to the expense of having them castrated, only to then get rid of a little while down the line
  10. moderators cant win either way, we remove posts like this and get slatted for it, followed by another post titled "what happened to such and such post" or we leave it up, and get slatted for not removing it, I left it up, to let people dig holes for themselves,
  11. get mine off e bay, cost around a tenner for 30 or so, good quaility too
  12. you lads should really use the spell check button, and a bit of punctuation would be nice who has the smallest ferrets, I think their better being small like weasels, then others also may want to buy some I bought a couple of silver jills from magwich 2yrs ago, bred them last year, and then bred the resulting young jills this year with an outcross, out of 28 kitts this year, I have one jill that I call runt, as she is a wee little thing, and I thought she was, just a runt, but after chatting with magwitch, realize it could be one of his small lines, re-appearing after skipping a year
  13. the only flaw I can see in this statement, most animals can be trained, if the owner/handler knows what they are doing, now Im not saying the poster dos'ent know what he's doing, but ALL FERRET KITTS BITE, its how we keep them, handle them etc, that teach them not to bite us, so giving the advice of, if its keeps doing it, knock them on the head and get some more, because as you say, thats how stockmen get good stock, is bo****ks, as the next lot of kitts they get WILL ALSO BITE, unless taught/handled correctly
  14. I beg to differ on that one
  15. jills in season smell too Id suggest you try a different approach, because yes ferrets smell, you can treat them as pets and pamper them to your hearts content, wash them bathe them, spray them, they will still have an odour, some grow to accept it, others will always decline maybe get your parents to visit someone with you that keeps ferrets, Ive had people standing at my ferret end of the garden, 30 plus ferrets, remark how they expected a PONG" BUT IT IS'NT or get up each morning, take a big sniff of each of them, and comment that they stink too
  16. and cheers to you both, didnt think I'd get them all in the freezer, but I did,
  17. are you asking about true polecats or are you just getting muddled up with polecat coloured ferrets jills are faster than hobs, so normally used most, hobs are slower, and bigger so can be used to flush rabbits that wont bolt, but its everyone to their own, some just use hobs,
  18. so we took the kids out today for a walk around a local country fayre, loads of stuff to buy, but mostly kept saying to myself "you dont need it", what you have will do, just near the end of the day, we go into the wood turning tent, theres a guy with the electric lathe, and another with the traditional lathe, foot pedal and rope type, he had made some very nice hardwood priests, drilled and filled with lead, now I did'nt really need one, but the one I had picked up was a nice maple and just the right size, so I bought it, then get chatting to the guys wife, as she had asked if "I ferret" to
  19. you'll see loads of it beside roadworks, or if you want to pay, B&Q sell the same stuff, looks good, my only suggestion would be to make sure, where the pipes go through the mesh, that the tubing is held in place somehow, a ferret at night, left to themselves, have a crafty way of getting that stuff out of the hole, I tie nylon cord around my pipe, then tie that to the cage
  20. B&Q do a very good electric one, cost's around £35 but takes staples and brads, of which you can buy a multi-pack, when using it to build a larsen trap, like me, remember to NOT push the wood with your thumb, as you fire a brad in from the opposite side
  21. good excuse to buy a couple of terriers and a smoker
  22. as yours was an e bay buy, it probably didnt come with the instructions, the battery collars can be left in for short periods of time, without draining the batteries, simply by not closing the collar back together, but leaving the batteries half showing, handy as you can insert the batteries at home, before ferreting, then if its a long drive, your not wasting the batteries, simply push the collar together before putting on the fert, but longer periods of time, ie between ferreting trips, always take them out, the same goes for the 9volt
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