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Jax13

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Everything posted by Jax13

  1. For hunting use out to sensible (read sub 300 yard) ranges I would go for 4-16x mag, 30mm tube and 50mm+ front lens depending on what models are available. I have had 20 / 24 mag scopes before but have always found I never needed or wanted to go above 16 as they become very parallax fussy, you get a tiny depth of field and field of view and at 24x any slight wobble is magnified to the point that you feel like your trying to shoot in an earthquake! Most important for me is decent aim points (if you don't dial) and a thin enough ret that allows you to place a shot where you want it withou
  2. Yep. Currently have a mk4 Mondeo, wouldn't want to own or even just drive my dad's last car (a merc) on a daily basis because it's a heap of crap that breaks down all the time, costs a fortune to fix and wasn't even as comfy to sit in or well equipped for the extra £8k purchase price! Genuinely, I dont see how you say the 2 aren't comparable. The monarch I had might have just been duff, or not suited to my eye but it is genuinely one of the worst scopes I have ever owned when you look at it on a bang for buck basis. I would much, much rather have my old phillilino Simmons aetec
  3. Easiest way I've found is to take a tube of the malt paste in your bag and when ferret comes out of the box, just squeeze a bit onto the top of your box and the little buggers will sit there for a couple of minutes licking the paste while you collar it up. One of my Jill's necks is wider than her head so I run her on a harness (after digging to a slipped collar 3 times on the trot) and it really helps having the paste down for that as there are 2 straps to fasten. Using the paste keeps them dead still and because it's a treat they don't care about the collar going on them.
  4. Does your badger size ferret fit down the holes ones he has arrived in his tool box ? I'm only messing thanks for the advice everyone I'll take it all on board. He won't fit through a 2" mesh purse net so frequently gets stuck or just fubars every net he sticks his fat head through so he didn't work last year and hasn't been out this year as yet! Now that ive got a couple of stop nets and the lurcher is working well he will be used in places I don't need to purse net a couple of times a year but if I'm honest the big jaffa is really only in the shed to knock the Jill's out of season a
  5. I'd go wooden too. An inch of shavings in the bottom and your sorted. My 3 were in there for about 5 hours today and came out warm, but not clammy and happy as Larry. Never heard good reports about plastic boxes apart from lower weight. You could always do what I did for my hob / badger sized ferret and go to b&q and buy a plastic tool box, nip to the scrap yard on the way home and cut a length of seat belt out of an old v6 mazda mx3 (other cars are available) and drill some vent holes in the front of the box when you get home. Total cost is about £10 / £15.
  6. Unless you buy a monarch which was outperformed in low light and daylight (with better depth of field and an arguably more forgiving eye box) by a hawke panorama. Genuinely the worst scope I have ever owned. 400 quid budget I'd be looking at a 2nd hand vortex viper.
  7. Just measured her and she is standing about 25" to the shoulder.
  8. she recalls like a c$%& still! very erratic, if she wants to listen she does, if shes got her nose on something theres no point even shouting her. at least when a spaniel wants to do its own thing it looks at you as if to say "piss off - your not the boss of me!" she doesn't even flick an ear, the ignorant little bugger!!! recall sorts itself out a bit if i resort to the shock collar (usually vibrate is enough to get her attention but she does need the occasional tickle of encouragement but I'll break her into something resembling obedient eventually! she has a great prey drive
  9. A few pics of Mabel from yesterday. Had her out working for the first time about a fortnight ago and we bagged 14, all netted but she was catching on to what was happening and was great around the ferrets (but like a tit I forgot to take my phone or camera on the day)
  10. Had a play with a seek unit and it was a bag of #&%@~. Honestly,a torch held at arms length above your head to light down into the grass rather than across it is more use u less your shooting on freshly mown, bowling green flat fields. If the ground is rough or rutted it won't see them from my experience. I enquired with a few people about the flir and seek dedicated handheld ones at 400 ish quid for the exact same job and was told by everyone I could find who owned one not to bother. Hope you had some joy with it though.
  11. Sharing is no problem. On your application under the section about storage (assuming it's still on the new style forms) just say you are going to store in your dad's cabinet and put his ticket number on there. The feo will tell you what else you need to do, if anything. Bottom line is you have a secure place to store the guns and non ticket holders won't have access. My father in law and brother in law share a cabinet (brother in law doesn't live there anymore but doesnt want a cabinet in his house) and its no problem. Guns aren't logged on both tickets to the best of my knowledge be
  12. No chance. If you have full club membership you could potentially justify 4 x lr's if you can prove good reason. 25yd prone, lsr, turning target or gallery then maybe one for dedicated field use is justified but it's down to their belief of your good reason. As I said before, 2 x hmr is just asking for them to look at you as inexperienced and asking for more than you need because they are not a target rifle (and you still may not be able to use them on the indoor range because of the range speed limits) If you ask for a pair of lr, fac air and hmr its pretty standard plus you co
  13. Not quite right on the slots. If you were applying for 2 x lr's 1 x fac air and a hmr you would ask for the following slots (+good reason) . 22lr rifle (target and day use for vermin) . 22lr moderator (health and safety) . 22lr rifle (night use for vermin) . 22lr moderator (health and safety) . 22 fac air rifle (vermin) . 22 fac air moderator . 17hmr rifle (vermin & occasional fox) . 17hmr moderator (health and safety) Each moderator needs its own slot and good reason for ownership. A lot of forces don't recognise hmr as a target rifle due to the lack of non
  14. Most people with 2 x 22lrs will either have one for the club and one for the field or one that is scoped for club / daytime hunting and another with a dedicated nv sight on it. It's all about having good reason which is unfortunately a subjective matter. Some forces will not view dedicated nv as a good reason for duplicate calibres but some will. So long as you have a valid explanation for wanting 2 slots for the same calibre you shouldn't have too much trouble. Don't forget to put down your moderator slots for everything either.
  15. And wait for your full membership. Initial application could then look like... Fac air (22 or 25 depending on your choice) Air rifle moderator . 22lr x 2 .22lr moderator x 2 Hmr / wmr (personal preference but having owned both I'd go wmr) Hmr / wmr moderator . 223 223 mod 357/38spl
  16. As walshie says. It doesn't matter where the land is, all your dealings are done with your issuing force and they will enquire about land suitability etc. with the force where the land is. Give them a ring with the land details to see if they can find out if it's already cleared as there is no point applying for something that they don't clear the land for then get your forms filled in for your ticket. If you can wait till you have a full club membership I would because it makes life a lot easier if you have target use and vermin as reasons for owning (plus it'll save you money on var
  17. I agree with the above, the 95 is probably one of the best break barrel air rifles on the market.
  18. To add to earlier, You'll see little practical different between Cz models. The thing to do is check they fit you. The lux version has IMHO a horrible stock. It's very thin and whippy up front, the hogs back doesn't really put you on to a decent height for a scope and they can feel quite short. An American, style or silhouette model would be my preference. You can then go to town with a huge selection of aftermarket stocks etc. if you wanted to.
  19. A secondhand bolt action 22 will have very little to look for really. Things to check. Trigger pull. Cock the rifle and dry fire it a couple of times. Is the trigger sloppy, does it have a clean consistent break? Is it too heavy? Too light? Does it slam or bump fire (essential test on a 2nd hand Cz in case someone made an arse of fitting a trigger kit) Barrel. Is the crown clean, (if possible buy a cheap jewellers loup ad have a close look) are the threads clean or are they a little chewed? Is the blueing in decent condition? Drop the bolt out and look down the barrel towards a lig
  20. Lincoln model 2 is well worth a look. Will do everything a 2nd hand gun costing 3x as much will do and will do it well.
  21. Air can be effective in the right hands but it is a completely different game to rimfire shooting. Remember you will potentially be cutting 2/3+ off your effective range, your field craft will need to be a damn site better to stop them bolting and you arguably need to ensure you are shooting extremwly accurately due to the fact your dropping a hell of a lot of power. Why not go fac air instead? It'll at least double your range over legal limit air rifle, one small cabinet and one renewal letter every 5 years plus you won't have the hassle of going through a brand new application of you
  22. Just another thought... If you used a bore guide you wouldn't actually address the problem which is crap in the chamber. If accuracy is still fine I'd avoid touching the barrel at all if possible and just do the chamber and maybe the first couple of inches
  23. Most 3 gun cabinets will take half a dozen shotguns if you top and tail them. In contrast, if its normal depth and not an extra deep you'd be lucky to fit in a scoped rifle and an o/u 12 bore without them knocking against each other.
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