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Everything posted by skycat
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Great read: I enjoyed that: its good to show the other side of the coin sometimes: all dog have to start somewhere and some are slower than others! Good luck and may he continue to improve! I've had some that have taken nearly 2 seasons to really make the grade: don't give up!
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What a brilliant post that guy put on there explaining how to do it step by step: now, if it doesn't actually hurt the dog, I wonder how we in the UK would stand if we did it?
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I'll just have to track you down if you do Wilf: I've always wanted to put a face to the name!! LOL
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The Earthdog team hit Lincolnshire to rid it of some vermin
skycat replied to shell's topic in Earthdogs & Working Terriers
Excellent pics: don't you just lurve all that slime and gunk in the motor on the way home! LOL -
Desensitization CD(loud bangs)
skycat replied to DEKAW's topic in Working Dog Health & Training Talk
Try giving the dog Scullcap and Valerian tablets from Dorwest Herbs http://www.dorwest.com/ and yes, the Sounds Scary CD does help, but you need to play it at least twice a day and follow the instructions to the letter. Sound sensitivity gets worse each year if left untreated. -
Good point Pops. Some of the laws here do our heads in completely! I'm going to look into it further as I'm not 100% sure of the legalities of it: there might be a way round other than what you are suggesting: it would be a bit difficult to claim that if it was a dog you had bred, was well known etc etc.
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Freeze branding dogs is not legal in the UK: a shame, as it makes a lot of sense. The Americans do their hunting dogs I've noticed: pretty useful I'd think when you consider the amount of miles they cover at times.
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The lurcher writer Ted Walsh used to say that by hanging the pups by the tail over a stable door at a few days old, you could see the length of their backs and pick a good un that way! The mind boggles! Another daft old saying: White tip to the tail: never fail! Considering that an enormous number of lurchers have a few white hairs at the end of their tails...............well! Another one: someone told me that they had never seen a nervous bitch that couldn't catch a hare! (He was talking about coursing dogs here) Funnily enough I've had a couple of nervy bitches and they were both
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I'm probably teaching my grandmother to suck eggs here: BUT in the case of a dog that has been running loose for more than 24 hours, it is absolutely useless to chase them: dogs go feral within a relatively short space of time and even if the dog is a much loved animal, it won't even respond to its owner once it has gone into wild fleeing mode. If the owner can be found and they have another dog, one that the lost dog will recognise, then sometimes that dog can be persuaded to come in when it sees the other dog having fun with the owner. The only other solution is to leave meat out lac
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Call me soft if you will, but I'd hate to transport my dogs in a little trailer or box attached to the rear of the vehicle. For one I'd be terrified of a vehicle running into the back of a flimsy unprotected box or trailer, not to mention the fact that it is bloody cold in winter in a metal box. Plus I like to be able to see my dogs at all times and know they are alright, especially on a long journey. I'm aware that if you have one family saloon type car and don't want the dogs messing it up then it must be difficult to do otherwise, but it wouldn't be for me. If one car is all you have th
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Congrats to all: and best wishes to Mrs Stabs and baby: at least the bairn will be growing up in the land of the still fairly free!
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You also need to get her out in the daytime: let her learn fieldcraft, fences, hedges, ditches: this is invaluable and a life saver when it comes to running in the dark. A dog needs to find its feet whilst it can see where it is going before you even think about running at night.
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Ys, that is a really good point: I once had a dog x rayed 5 times from different angles before the fracture showed up! By the way: you don't want to be massaging without a correct dignosis! Just in case it is a fracture!
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Kammo! Tough as old boots, dead comfortable and will last you for years. Not cheap at about £100 a pair, but IMO well worth it as virtually indestructable as well as being waterproof, windproof and breathable. http://www.kammo.co.uk/contact.html
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In that case I would make absolutely sure the dog does no jumping at all: not even into the back of the motor or into its bed if it is more than 6 inches off the ground. On lead at all times, and you really do need to learn how to massage the leg. It has been proven that the right sort of massage can go a long way to restoring the muscle to how it should be. Probably too late for really good healing by now, but do contact a Greyhound man. PM me and tell me what area you are in and I'll look up someone for you: there's loads up and down the country. Oh, and by the way: all this experi
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Good haul there. Have you got any more pics of the Airedale cross lurchers? Are they straight Airedale/Stag or what? Very interested to find out more about them.
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If the swelling is soft and dimples when you press it I'd say at a guess, though impossible to be sure without going over the dog myself, that this is blood that has run down under the skin from a very badly torn muscle. I could well be wrong though. OR, if the dog has a puncture wound in its foot, it could also be air that has been forced up under the skin each time the dog puts pressure on its foot and opens the wound up a bit. Does the skin feel as though it has bubble wrap just under the surface? Either way I'd get an opinion from a good Greyhound vet. Normal vets are pretty hop
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My heartfelt sympathy to you: awful after putting so much time in on a young dog: had it happen to me several times: there's a saying that goes: "You only own a lurcher when it is on the lead". The rest of the time it is in the lap of the Gods.
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Beautiful looking dog and pup: gutted for you. It's also worth noting that if vaccinations are not kept below 5C they lose their viability. So people that buy them on the cheap and don't keep them in the fridge are just wasting their money and risking their dogs' lives. Had it happen to me a few years ago: I've never bought cheap vaccs. since then: horrible to see a young dog die needlessly.
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What is this 'heating' you are on about?!! All we have is one open fire: and lots of dogs to keep us warm! It's surprising how a room full of dogs keeps the temperature up even when the fire's gone out in the morning. LOL
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Do they actually make that tracing paper toilet roll still? Can't believe anyone still uses it it Me: things that just have to be the best are, yes, toilet roll, (you can't blow your nose on the tracing paper! LOL) bread (Allinsons' Wholemeal), real butter, good quality fresh veg and decent sausages.
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Some bitches aren't ready to stand until 20 days or even more: I had a bitch who started pretending to stand at about 14 days, but wouldn't let the dog get on her until day 21. I once had her force mated at 15 and 17 days: held her still for the dog, but she didn't take. Next time she came in season we kept taking her to the dog, an experienced stud, every day: he wasn't interested in her until day 21 of her season: she stood and took. You can get a bitch blood tested to find out exactly when she is ovulating: contact your vet. There are also some bitches who never willingingly stand
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Nice one: at least her owner had the sense to keep on looking for her: worth their weight in gold those sort of dogs.
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Apologises for selectively quoting you, So would you be willing to chance taking one of these antis out hunting with you to show them what goes on? Ive offered and it was declined The pet owners believe its them that have educated us hunters with their knowledge of husbandary Can you please enhance on your working lines please? The same as myself I dont doubt you but they have the opinion that working ability is not inheritted as there isnt a gene for it Y.I.S Leeview I have taken several people out who although not out and out antis, most definitely non hunters: all were interested
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We've got an electric mincer and we put butcher's waste fat (lamb and beef) through at the same time. If you haven't got a mincer then it all takes a lot longer: pups of 4 weeks old can't cope with bone fragments very well so you'd have to cut the meat off the bone, chop it up very finely and do the same with the fat<which is of course solid and white like suet. You can use vegetable oil, but I never think that is going to be as good as animal fat which a dog's digestive system is designed to make better use of. Once pups hit 5 to 6 weeks old then they can digest bone fragments: o
