skycat
-
Content Count
7,517 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
15
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Articles
Gun Dealer's and Fieldsports Shop's
Reloading Room
Blogs
Calendar
Store
Classifieds
Everything posted by skycat
-
If the dog has a torn muscle or ruptured tendon somwhere then it will be fine on the lead, but will affect it when running. Muscles take up to 6 weeks to heal, tendons up to 3 months. Keeping it on the lead for a fortnight will do nothing in terms of healing: and as soon as the dog runs it opens up the damage again and your'e back to square one: wouldn't it be better to get an accurate diagnosis now? The sooner you know what's causing the problem the sooner you can treat it correctly and get your dog back on the road to recovery.
-
Take the dog to a GReyhound vet, not just an ordinary pet dog vet. Someone who is a trained osteopath, muscle and bone man: that it is the ONLY way to go!! What area do you live in? I know a few around the midlands area.
-
If you're only worried about the claw then I wouldn't.......worry that is! If she's not lame on it and the claw is stable then treat her as normal. It might just stay like that: just watch her running on hard ground though! I've got a couple of dogs with strange shaped claws after they've damaged them in the past: not caused a problem.
-
That looks pretty swollen around the nail bed (cuticle) Don't even think about running the dog until it is completely healed as it will only set you back another month. Wash carefully in salt water every day and get some Padsanol from the Greyhound store.www.greyhoundsuperstore.co.uk The idea is to keep it completely clean: if there is any gunk or dirt inside the swollen area between skin and claw then use Hydrogen Peroxide 6% from the chemist (mixed 50/50 with water) to bubble out any muck in there. Don't keep using it over and over again as it can slow down healing as it virtually cauter
-
I'm still chortling: laughed out very loud at that: especially the woo-hoo bit>
-
I blew them out a month ago as their tripe was so rank most of my dogs wouldn't even touch it! Still haven't paid for it though LOL
-
Can you take a pic of it and put it on here? When you say the cuticle: do you mean the skin at the base of the claw? I've got a remedy for that if that is your problem: let's see a pic of it before I go rambling on about it LOL.
-
Look good sized foxes too: lucky, lucky you to have all those pesky varmints!
-
Poor fecking bitch: if she's already had 5 litters she's certainly past her prime in breeding terms. Some people just see dogs in terms of pounds and kudos. Why not give the bitch the retirement she obviously deserves. To be honest I blame the person that sold her just to breed from again. What is this sort of activity saying to people new to dogs? Use it, breed from it until it pops its clogs: its only a dog after all!!! IMO this bitch deserves a little respect for all that she has done on the field and breeding wise: time to call it a day and find a nice settee for her to end her days
-
I don't know if you agree with all this alternative stuff, but do try him on some Rescue Remedy (Bach Flowers Remedies): its for shock, post traumatic stress etc. A few drops diluted 50/50 with water dropped on to his tongue a several times a day to begin with. Then keep it going twice a day for another week or so. Plus, as you said, time is a great healer. Physically the dog will still be bruised to feck even if the wounds are healing: deep bruising can be weeks before it comes out. Just take him short walks in places which don't remind him of the place where he got attacked. You'll p
-
Yes, it sounds as thought the ligaments have ruptured. Not usually a problem in a hind foot, and not usually too much of a problem if its one of the middle toes in the front foot: the problems occur when its and inside or outside toe: they take all the wear and strain when cornering. The problem is that if you have the toe taken off there will be even less to stabilise the dog when it's cornering that side, and this can lead to shoulder problems. Had it with one of ours. She still caught and ran well on the straight, but she did do lame and arthritis set in after a year. Sorry to say t
-
Also depends on dog's fitness: heavy built dogs take longer and more consistent exercise to get fit than small terrier type animals. Also tend to feel the heat more. Just because the dog tears around with a mate every day doesn't mean to say its properly running fit.
-
Ferrets haven't got the best eye sight in the world anyway: their sense of smell, then their hearing are their main 2 senses when it comes to hunting.
-
I just wouldn't do it because those bones are like knives when frozen solid: apparently the Inuits eat large pieces of frozen meat to warm them up in winter: makes the body work overtime to thaw and digest it: there was a thread on here a while back from a guy that lives with the Inuit. I guess with small bones like rabbit and chicken ribs it wouldn't matter too much, but anything else would worry me a bit: maybe I'm a bit too cautious LOL.
-
Have you thought that it might be a good idea to READ something on the subject of breeding dogs before diving in as you seem to be? Not wishing to sound aggressive or grumpy, but if you come on here asking a question like that should you really be considering breeding in the first place? Why not Google: breeding dogs, or the reproduction of dogs: better still, find yourself a good dog breeder local to you and ask them a few questions. Or am I merely biting at a windup question?
-
A fox definitely: at this time of year there are many hungry cubs about: probably the reason it went for the front end is that it started where there was blood from the entry wound. And the reason the whole shoulder blade is missing is that shoulder blades are only attached by tissue, so easily removed: anyone who has butchered animals will know this: the shoulder blade takes very little effort to remove when you slide a blade under it and sever the binding tissue.
-
Yeah! Who the hell really wants to be all sweetness and light: sugary, yucky, smile bow down and three bags full sir! :sick: OK, males of any species are more on a level and not to prone to hormonal shifts of mood etc, but if I had to live with a sickly, goody all the time smiley man I'd vomit! LOL Surely blokes like a little variety of personality within one woman.................if they don't they might as well get a barbie doll!
-
Glad you got yourself sorted: she looks very nice indeed: best of luck this season and I'm sure you'll have loads of fun with her.
-
Bitch in a 'funny mood' after first season.
skycat replied to Malt's topic in Working Dog Health & Training Talk
It's very normal after a season, and not only their first ones! Ah, the trials and tribulations of owning bitches, or being a female of any species -
Happened to me last year: my 2 older terrier bitches were mooching about in brambles and came out covered in wasps. Very groggy. Gave them half a Piriton (antihistimine) each and within half and hour were right as rain. OK, they weren't in anaphylactic shock quite, but were obviously in great pain: one had 35 wasps stinging her and the other over 40. the old terrier got stung by 2 bees the year before and keeled straight over: luckily she revived by the time I got her back to the van, but it could have been curtains. Now I carry Piriton with me all the time in the summer.
-
Just another thought: it's often the most intelligent dogs which are the biggest pain in the arse when they're growing up! Once they start proper work they have something real to occupy their minds. I've got a 2 year old lurcher bitch who still acts like a real goof during the summer when she's not working: last winter, her first proper working season, she really shone, learned very fast and did me proud both ferreting and lamping. To my mind she is typical of a highly intelligent animal that gets bored very fast and constantly wants to work: she's happy to do anything I ask of her, though
-
Freeze plastic coke/water bottles full of water then put them in the court: they'll lie next to them to cool down if they get too hot. Keep a ready supply in the freezer to replace when the water melts/gets warm.
-
A ferret needs to be given the choice to go into water: not be put in it. Ours have a heavy ceramic dog bowl in their run: when it's hot they duck under the water sometimes to cool down.
-
Are you sure the dam is Collie Bull Grey? She's rough coated, which would be virtually impossible if that was her breeding, unless there was Bearded Collie in there as well of course. Very nice bitch all the same. And quite an amazing range of merle colours.
-
Agree there. Its also important to get the pup to pee/crap not too far from the back door to begin with. Don't choose a spot more than 10 feet from the back door. Pups can't hold it very long at this age and get caught short easily. As it gets older it will automatically move further and further away from its 'den', (your house). If you catch it messing inside, don't whatever you do rub its nose in it: the pup won't understand and just get upset and confused. Just pick it up and take it straight outside. This is where a cage comes in very useful as the pup can be left in it overnigh