skycat
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Everything posted by skycat
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Sorry, forgot to add: chicken or beef mince, or minced rabbit (no bones to begin with) served at body temperature and made a bit sloppy with warm water is as near to how a wild dog would regurgitate meat for her pups: take the bitch out when you give this to the pups and leave them for half an hour with the food. Let bitch back in to finish the rest. Weaning can take several weeks and should not be hurried unless the bitch is unwell or won't feed the pups herself< but that is a whole different subject.
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Just to add my tenpence worth: I know that this is a hunting site, but to ban non hunting members seems to me a bit counter productive. After all, a lot of people come on here because they want to learn about how to hunt, or are simply interested. Yes, I know there are always going to be antis and dubious characters lurking in the background, but banning all non hunting members isn't going to make the antis go away. We as hunters should be tolerant of those who do not hunt, and unless those people are actively trying to disrupt, ruin or in any other way harm our activities, we should try
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Some pups reared purely on meat, carcases and mother's milk.
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OMG! Bread and milk!!! Puppies need PROTEIN: protein is found in MEAT> that is the best form of protein for a dog. If you can't get meat (though for the life of me I can't see how anyone can't get hold of meat) then a good quality puppy complete food will do. And CAT FOOD! no way: far too rich: and tinned cat food is mostly water anyway............AND what's the point of spending a fortune on something like that when beef mince, butcher's trimmings (chicken carcases etc) cost next to nothing AND is much better for them. Yes, pups will survive on bread and milk<but in the sam
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need help on working my mastiff x greyhound
skycat replied to adskibullus's topic in Lurchers & Running Dogs
Don't forget that at 11 months old your dog is only half way to being all grown up. He will have put most of his energy into growing those big bones up until now: he still has at least another year to finish developing, in fact I'd say that he won't be physically fully mature until he reaches 3 years old. Don't try and force maturity and muscle on him before he's ready. His shoulder blades (the last bones in the body to finish growing) won't be completely developed before he is about 17 months old. So with all that muscle that still has to develop once his skeleton is grown, it stands t -
How long has your mate had the pup? Has it been out and about in the field since it was young, or has it just been stuck in a kennel most of its life? If a young dog doesn't have its brain activated whilst it is young then it can take an age for a dog to wake up to what is going on around it.
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Is the blood normal in season colour blood? If it is very dark, almost black, or has a bad smell to it then suspect an infection. Bitches which get a pyometra (uterine infection) usually do so after they have been in season, though I'd have though if she did have this she would have got it a bit sooner after her season. You could always get her scanned at the vet if you are at all worried, as a uterine infection normally shows up on an ultra sound scan. Might not be a bad idea to get her checked over anyway.
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Unless a bitch is on her second or third litter you are unlikely to see much bagging before she has the pups. It is the actual birth process which helps to bring on the milk. And I really wouldn't reccomend giving her a carton or two of milk a day! Bitches which are overweight can have more problems giving birth than bitches which are the right weight. Plus, unless the bitch is used to drinking milk it can also give her the runs. As long as she is getting a properly balanced diet she should be fine.
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You want to see this one then: fecking hilarious: couldn't stop laughing http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=W1czBcnX1Ww
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Very frequent seasons (every 3 or 4 months) can mean that they have cystic ovaries: might be an idea to get the vet to check it out if you suspect a problem.
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It IS a very nice dog: but to say that it is ready for this season is not fair on the dog or the buyer: that dog needs a lot of conditioning before I'd say it was fit and ready to run. Whoever gets the dog: I hope that they are sensible and put the work in before running the dog on game. Sorry to be picky, but there's that many young dogs which are ruined by running them unfit I just had to have my say.
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That is one well put together animal: and in beautiful condition as well. Well done.
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Seriously Longslip: if you are properly jabbed up you won't feel a thing even if the tooth/root does shatter: it might just sound a bit horrendous when they scrabbling about trying to get it out. I had one out last year: as long as the dentist gives you the proper nerve block injection you won't feel a thing.
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I think maybe you're thinking of Greyhounds: sprint dogs, not built for marathons like Salukis or Collies. That's part of the point of creating a lurcher: getting a dog with more stamina than a pure Greyhound, something that is capable of working all day or night. Of course Saluki and Collie blooded dogs have more stamina than say a Whippet/Greyhound or a Bull/Greyhound, but even those dogs will have a lot more stamina than a straight Greyhound AS LONG AS YOU CONDITION THEM PROPERLY. Fitness is everything in any animal or human: you wouldn't get Paula Radcliffe running and winning marathons
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http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=W1czBcnX1Ww Awesome piece of kit this, but I found it pretty weird and creepy to watch: like a giant insect without a head!
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Get the Sounds Scary CDs: play at gradually increasing volume from now on until 5th November. I've started already and my dogs are a lot better than they would normally be: start low volume, and don't forget to play the CDs in the evening too when it is dark and the time that fireworks would normally be let off. http://www.soundsscary.com/ Also: get Scullcap and Valerian tablets from Dorwest Herbs. They really do work: plus they now do a liquid Valerian Compound.
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Some of my best lurchers have been quiet and shy things, skulking at the back of the litter whilst the other pups charged forwards. Twice I've bred litters and kept the pups that no one else wanted because they were too shy: they both went on to become demon workers: they were always a bit shy with strangers though: no bad thing in these days of dog theiving scum. I'd agree that the pup that charges at you and jumps all over you is likely to be pretty dominant: those sort need an experienced hand. Don't feel you have to ignore the pup in the corner though. I reckon my GSD cross hadn't
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Could be one of the following: a)old muscle damage which has not been diagnosed, muscle has then healed badly leaving scar tissue which doesn't work properly like a normal muscle should, therefore hurtin like hell when dog does a bit. Muscle stiffens up after lying down and takes a while to loosen up again. arthritic condition in joints: has the same effect as the above cause. Usually caused by knocks, bangs etc, or simply over use. You say it doesn't cause her any pain, but if she won't walk on it then it's obviously causing pain! Deep chronic pain won't necessarily give you a
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Beautiful. Apt and true. Thankyou for sharing that with us: I still get that lump in my guts when I remember some of my old but not forgotten heroes.
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We got our kennels from them: 2 months later than the date they promised! In fact I got so disgusted when they kept telling me they were coming this week, then next week, then the week after that I demanded my money back: they refunded my money in full, and a month later they eventually delivered and put up the kennels. They are cheap, not the best made on the market, but do the job OK. You get what you pay for at the end of the day, but I'd have thought that they'd have got their act together by now regarding delivery dates etc. We've had our kennels nearly 2 years now so things obvious
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How old is he? He looks very young: all the best with him.
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If it is to be her first litter expect the following: the possibility of a slow, difficult whelping. The possibility of a caesarian: can you afford a few hundred quid at the vets? Some pups might not make it. The bitch could die (even a healthy young bitch can have problems sometimes) Could you handle hand rearing a litter? Could you stand losing the bitch in labour? Not trying to put you off, but it is best to be prepared: she could have absolutely no problems at all, but it will be a bit like expecting a 60 year old woman to have twins or something like that! If you do decide to b
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Try and get them some whole rabbits: just open the carcase and put the lot in: your diet, whilst caring, may be lacking some vital nutrients only to be found on whole carcases, which is of course what small mustelids thrive on: raw carcase every time. Cooking alters the chemical composition of things and all predators are designed to eat raw meat. By putting the whole carcase in you give the ferrets EVERYTHING they need: and they pick and choose what they need most. If you absolutely can't give them fresh rabbit then offer them a wide choice of raw meat: minced beef (they need the iron and v
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It also comes down to the type of ground you are going to run on. Flat grass or arable land needs a much faster dog than hilly, rough country.
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Excellent start for the dog: just what they need: following one to ground. Most of mine get started like that and its great, isn't it!