Casso
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Everything posted by Casso
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Dont use a shock collar, unless you 100% clear in your mind what you want to achieve ,when to use it and where,,the collar works best if its used just to change his frame of mind in situations,, what ever you achieve with it ,you wont achieve any sort of understanding between him and you,and that is where i would start from, the first thing i would do is get a tug item to play with the mutt with, 1, it brings him into close proximity to you when in drive ,something he dont seem to be able to bear up till now, 2,it gives you a handle on him, you will always get the attention of a dog mad for
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Dont use a shock collar, unless you 100% clear in your mind what you want to achieve ,when to use it and where,,the collar works best if its used just to change his frame of mind in situations,, what ever you achieve with it ,you wont achieve any sort of understanding between him and you,and that is where i would start from, the first thing i would do is get a tug item to play with the mutt with, 1, it brings him into close proximity to you when in drive ,something he dont seem to be able to bear up till now, 2,it gives you a handle on him, you will always get the attention of a dog mad for
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all those prey items that you mention are very attractive to the mutt,no doubt,,and the dog is stimulated by the movement of prey,because its an instinct,, think of it this way ,,if a dog chased a rabbit and never caught it ,when all he wants to do really is chase ,catch and sink his teeth in something,,thats basically what his drive energy causes him to do,, now after chasing that rabbit which has caused him up be charged up,and not catching everyday,,he still stuck with a huge charge in him ,if everyday over that length of time you produce a tug item when he returns to you ,every day st
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the mutt is experiencing its blossoming prey drive,,we all think pups are trained because they respond so early to our calls and treats, they'll sit ,recall , whatever it is before the drive process, because they are in that social harmony with their owner,,but the pup is far from trained, when he gets to a certain age he becomes a bit more brave or so it appears to us,,he's getting pulled by his instincts ,smells in particular are a huge one ,he suddenly wont come off smelling something as quick as he used too, and so it get worse,, because if we dont attact his drive energy which is buil
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Shooting and lurcher work, compatible or not ???
Casso replied to Casso's topic in Lurchers & Running Dogs
im very impressed with the amount of different work lads can turn there running dog to, just goes to show that the two codes can work hand in glove with each other, ive just always had the idea that hunting with a runner, was a silent ,noiseless affair, not one that id associate with a gun, but if it works it works,and more power to ya,, -
its also the time in her life where everything she been thought goes out the window, she picked up quick on the time and interest invested in the phones too, so she paying attention to whats going on about the place,,use her energy to train her through drive,that is,,get her to do something before you throw a ball for her,,sit ,stay ,come,,whatever it is you want,it will cement the bond between both of you,,best of luck,
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her drive has kicked in,,enjoy
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I would be interested to know if many lads with running dogs on here, originally started off with a gun and come from a shooting background, seems to be there's conflict between the two codes judging by some of the threads on here,, a bloke i would have hunted with years ago who seemed very anti gun at the time , got a taste for it and after a while dropped the dogs like they were on fire,couldn't understand the attraction for it at the time and still dont,,it just seems to be loud, organised,and expensive,,everything im not or do some lads float between both codes ??,,i can appre
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Lamping tips and help for a first starter
Casso replied to Stewbell's topic in Lurchers & Running Dogs
im with kittlerox on this one, too much excitement for a young dog who you really want to be calm and focused , there's a lot of threads bout lamping and how to get young dogs to this and that,,and the answers in most cases are ,the dog needs to go out and experience it and learn himself ,he will learn how to catch and he will learn how to use the lamp to his advantage, given plenty of work,, with a bit of common sense thrown in on your behalf,, Had an old bitch before, who could make a mental map of the spot in the field where i had spotted a bunny and knocked the lamp off ,she knew by my -
the mutts are just expression their drive energy, some dogs if repressed by their owner in the house, see the owner leaving as a chance to express it with the negative oppression of the owner out of the way, the drive is expressed as with any mutt orally,, the way i see it is, if you get the bite out ,you wont have the problem,, tug items and all that sort of thing work,,, think of a dog as having a valve that needs to be opened and released, thats what happens with its drive energy,it builds up and up and if you dont release it it bubbles over or explodes,,which is the main reason the feck
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theres no reason any mutt with drive and an active temperament would not give it a go, my only reservation on it would be at what point would its drive cut out,like the trip switch on the electricity in your home,when its overloaded,,how hgh does the pain threshold in a cocker go,,once the threshold of pain reaches the level of drive and goes past, thats him out of there,the switch has been tripped,, then again he might not take any punishment, and go on to become the ultimate fox slayer,,until hes found out ,,
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its purely an instinctive trait in canines, think about pups or cubs in the wild not wanting to be left behind or lost, the need to keep the adults in sight,,you need to break the emotional attachment between you ,not sure what age the pup is ,or how long shes away from the bitch ,, is there someone with her all day every day, if so thats the norm and anything different from that is panic stations for the pup,, build up her confidence,,that means not correcting physically or shouting ,trying biting your tongue and redirecting her, hard i know but a confident pup is happy in his own skin and
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Perfect, and the more wind blowing the better, it dosent need to be the proper rabbit sound either ,fox is a very curious animal ,he will come to any squeaking noise ,the only thing that will give you away is if he gets wind of you,,,
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yes it does mean limiting one to increase the interest in another,,if that is what you want??the mutt uses his drive energy by hunting ,chasing ,catching ,biting,,limit that then,,the energy is still there with no access ,,the dummy will start looking very attractive, but it will take time and probably not what you want anyway,,not sure what to reply to the image of a female being winched while been coursed by a pack of dogs,,interesting ,,
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You need to limit his access to one thing to raise his interest in another,,if your going to give him a choice between real rabbit hunting and bummy's ,the real thing is going to win hands down every time, if he dosent get to use his drive hunting,he still has that same energy drive in him ,frustration builds desire,,build frustration for an object and at the same time you will build desire,, he wont even acknowledge something if it dosent play some part in his drive process,,
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thats heaps of exercise for a pup,,i would throw in more play and less walking, playing with something like a tug toy ,tugging is tailor made for a terriers temperament, great for interacting and bonding with a pup ,also gets his prey drive going ,with the added bonus that the toy can be then used to cement recall ,and as a treat for training purposes, a dog distresses orally,,thats why when he's stressed he'll start chewing ,ripping and biting something ,anything to relieve a stressful situation, you become part of that with a tug toy , also he'll see you as his best buddy,,best of lu
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a bitch i had long time ago, first cross beddy/hound, hadn't a great turn of foot,bad feet, ugly as sin, but huge drive, really opened my eyes to all sorts of game and the ability of a determined canine, when you have a dog in tune with you ,it'll bring the best out of you and you in it, she never gave up in situations where i would have thrown my hat in, landed us in some really sticky situations , great bitch who probably sealed the lid on me ever having a normal pastime,,
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i would ask , will you ever know 100% that the dog is ready ,how will you know the time is right, the dogs behavior, dogs age, and if its not ready its not, but if its got what it takes it will only increase its want even more, i believe a fox dog is born not made, saw a few young dogs spanked in contact early in there career, and come good because it only increased their drive second time round, maybe i have a different view on this because i dont believe the the fox is the be all and end all of lurcher work ,im not that bother if the dog works them or not, so i try the mutt ,see how he
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she's ready to have a go,, ???...........physically she's not mature enough to have a go yet. if she's mentally mature enough ,she will be physically mature enough , when she can arouse that sort of drive in herself she's genetically programmed to make contact with the fox, and when she makes contact she will be just functioning on instinct, that is, the knowledge to kill is in her very pores,she already knows what to do, as skycat has already mentioned that ability to kill in the right breeding is preprogrammed, there is no thinking involved, drive has its own intelligence,the body
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she's ready to have a go,, ???...........physically she's not mature enough to have a go yet. if she's mentally mature enough ,she will be physically mature enough , when she can arouse that sort of drive in herself she's genetically programmed to make contact with the fox, and when she makes contact she will be just functioning on instinct, that is, the knowledge to kill is in her very pores,she already knows what to do, as skycat has already mentioned that ability to kill in the right breeding is preprogrammed, there is no thinking involved, drive has its own intelligence,the body
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she's ready to have a go,, ???...........physically she's not mature enough to have a go yet. if she's mentally mature enough ,she will be physically mature enough , when she can arouse that sort of drive in herself she's genetically programmed to make contact with the fox, and when she makes contact she will be just functioning on instinct, that is, the knowledge to kill is in her very pores,she already knows what to do, as skycat has already mentioned that ability to kill in the right breeding is preprogrammed, there is no thinking involved, drive has its own intelligence,the body
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she's ready to have a go,,
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what are ya trying 3turns, it doesn't involve you getting down on all fours and chasing bunnies with the dog watching does it, a lot of what your on about will come with experience, teething problems with pups starting on the lamp are unavoidable,,you'll never cover all angles if the dog wants it enough ,he'll figure it out in time, what bugs me more is when the pup chases the rabbit into a hedge, rabbit pops out a couple of feet away, and you watch the F ING rabbit bouncing along past you,while the mutt is still stuck head first in the ditch,,
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i think years ago pre ban,alot of lads starting out would have wanted to test their dogs on allsorts of quarry and with the bull generation now a certain attitude has crept in ,but i feel that to be able to speak about lurcher work you need to have taken different game,, Having said that a different view of lurcher work is now in place,no longer is the rabbiting dog seen as acceptable in its own right, from a certain element in the game ,,its as if its lacking something,,which is totally wrong i taken different game over the years, but more than happy just to take rabbits now,,wouldn't give
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never,,why would you add something that isnt bred to catch,, if thats what you saying, you start from a grey 2 get the line in the first place in most cases you do but, i believe that the further you breed along that line away from the hound(,who was there in the first place because of speed and in some cases drive),when you get 2nd ans 3rd generation down the line ,the more capable the offspring will be at catching ,this is if you are breeding best to best ,like humans some dogs are more agile ,more supple, and have more ability to do things than others,if they are bred from ,the chan
