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Dan Newcombe

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Everything posted by Dan Newcombe

  1. Dan Newcombe
    The park isnt that big! Deer killing not deer stakling IMO but i guess it is whatever floats your boat. Personally i would not pay for it there. Try Yorkshire Roe Stalking (put it into google) never been out with him but heard a lot of good things Dan
  2. Dan Newcombe
    Agreed with Pauly Forget the notion that people seem to have that you cant make a real fuss of working dogs. I have had some very funny looks playing with my spaniel, crouched down, high pitched voice and letting him jump all over me when he comes back to play Dan
  3. Dan Newcombe
    You could try sitting / crouching on the floor so that he comes running in to play with you and hopefully brings the toy as a matter of course. Its not everyones cup of tea but i would let him come right in a jump up at you when you recall him because if he does that he is more likely to bring the retrieve right in in future Dont worry too much about it but start getting him to come right back to you, give him the toy back a few times as well because otherwise he will soon learn that the 'game' is over once he gives it to you Dan
  4. Dan Newcombe
    1st thing i would do is discount anyone that says one is better than the other. 2nd thing would be to ignore people who say that training a cocker is different to a springer. Same principle and exercises apply to both breeds but you have to tailor the approcah to the individual dog. Get Joe Irvings book on spaniels, i find it very useful Good Luck
  5. Dan Newcombe
    Rhino rifles up near Chester do a good job, thats where i got my Tikka done Google them to get more details Dan
  6. Dan Newcombe
    Knew it must be easy! Cheers Dan
  7. Dan Newcombe
    Was thinking about offering my cocker up as a stud but see you have to be a donating member. How do you go about it, and how much is this? Dan
  8. Dan Newcombe
    I use a .22-250 Tikka but my mate has a .222 CZ and that comes out lamping more than the Tikka. Quieter, easier to shoot recoil wise and cheaper to run (plus it has a Zeiss Conquest 6.5-20 which is very smart to use) If i hadnt been given my Tikka i was going for a .223 Seems you have made a good choice Dan
  9. Dan Newcombe
    Not wanting to sound patronising but are you sure that you actually need a dog at this stage. As you have mentioned, you are thinking about having a go. remember the dog will be with you for the next 13 or so years at least, a big investment and commitment for an experiment. It can be hard to get somewhere to go wildfowling so on the simplest of levels that could put the stops on your ambition and then you have a dog you have less use for than you intended. Maybe better to have a go with someone that is experienced etc and then decide on the dog when you decide it sitting in the cold
  10. Dan Newcombe
    I cant pass comment on the trainier you originally mentioned but there is a chap in Cheltenham (Southam) who is pretty good. Nice bloke and good facilities Edgegrove gundogs, do a google search. Just thought i would mention it because the closeness means you can go there and have a look and be more involved with the dogs training / have 1 to 1 lessons instead of residential training. That way the dog wont have to get used to you again. Dan
  11. Dan Newcombe
    Bump Sort of forgot about selling this during the last couple of months but now it really is going Dan
  12. Dan Newcombe
    I like Joe Irvings books because it take the whole process through very logically. Understanding how to work the dog eventually is vital, i see a lot of people working dogs that dont really understand how it should be done and they subsequently dont get the best out of the dog. Try watching a trial etc to get an idea of what the dog should be doing (ie not 20 yards away doing what it likes as you see a lot in beating lines) then when you read the books you can link the exercise with things the dog will eventually be doing out in the field. Once you get this understanding then there is a go
  13. Dan Newcombe
    Joe Irvings book is very good, can say that there is anything in there that i dont agree with really. Good basis to work from and develop your dog. As for livestock, try introducing the dog to lambs pet lambs are especially good because they dont tend to run away. One way to do it is on the lead and as soon as the dog looks at the stock give it a sharp tug and keep walking. Should over time get the message that it shouldnt even look at sheep etc. Do not let the dog chase anything (at all) because one 'lesson' like that sticks with the dog more than 100 lessons in not chasing!
  14. Dan Newcombe
    Agreed They will tend to pick around the longer stuff initially but it will come in time (although with a springer the willingness to hit cover is never as good as with a cocker. unfortunately springers are just not in the same league in cover)** Just make sure that the recall is there and that the pup is willing to come all the way in. Personally i crouch down and let the dog jump up at me. As a result i have a 2 year old cocker that often doesnt even break stride before he jumps up / hits my legs when he comes back or he ends up sitting on my feet. This is important for retrievin
  15. Dan Newcombe
    Id want it to hunt further out to the sides! Apart from that i think its probably the wrong colour! He does make a good point though, why are there so many dogs for sale that do everything someone could want!
  16. Dan Newcombe
    Thinking about selling my .243 Sauer 202 wood stock, good conditon with a big T8 if that would be of interest give me a PM
  17. Dan Newcombe
    I am basing this statment purely on the theory in my mind but isnt a full metal jacket round potentially better in a 'fight' due to the greater penetration it should afford. Look at a varmint bullet blowing up on a fox shoulder compared to a soft nose punching through a deer. Would the FMJ rounds not be better for shooting people through things like car doors, walls and flack jackets? I do agree though that the .223 is a bit on the small side even if you comare them to a .22-250 they look a bit wimpy. In fact theres your solution..............the .22-250, or maybe a .270? If i
  18. Dan Newcombe
    I paid my £5 and went on one of the spaniel training days and my Mrs did 2 of them. They were ok and cheap even including the £5 subs. BUT I tried to get beating when i moved house and didnt know anyone, no reply and i also asked it they would like someone to do the RO job in my area but despite 2 emails there was no reply. I used to have the occasional browse on the forum but noticed that the more knowledgeable people seem to have drifted away (not all of them!). From looking over a time i noticed that people have very quickly become 'internet experts' and offering advice on all
  19. Dan Newcombe
    Agree with all that FTB has said, especially the not whacking the dog. Couple of further points - Never stop watching the dog and reading the body language. After a short time you will see when the scent gets 'hot' and can anticipate the flush. It is very important to get the stop whistle in BEFORE the flush because if the chase starts then the likelyhood of the dog stopping to the whistle is very low. As always, try to avoid the situation where you have to reprimand the dog. - Try and keep away from places where something will flush when you are instilling te stop. One break from
  20. Dan Newcombe
    FTB has it spot on. Too hot is a pain in the arse. If you are out all day with the dog then having to be right on top of it ALL the time is knackering! Its best to see the dogs work than rely on field trial back in the generations (no gaurentee that the parents arent duds). Id prefer to know that the parents do the job Ive said before that i would have a good springer but i wouldpay for a good cocker. Thats purely personal choice and they both do the job equally. A sprocker will do the job but why cross the two when the mongrels are so expensive these days (thanks to 'marketing
  21. Dan Newcombe
    Now these look like the sort of dog i was looking for in my post about lurchers with some 'nose' for following up deer!
  22. Dan Newcombe
    Sounds promising Might look into following this route when i have the time Dan
  23. Dan Newcombe
    Ive never seen bulldog crosses in this country, generally its the bull terriers that are used Id emphasis, its not for chasing them down or hunting them up. Its for following the trail when something goes wrong (rarely hopefully) and correcting a mistake. think that the size, speed and mentality of the bull would be ideal for the job if a second shot cant be taken or it is a strong runner. Plus i like them Dan
  24. Dan Newcombe
    What sort of nose do you reckon your lurchers have? I do a bit of stalking and am thinking about getting a dog to follow up any runners and for others in the area. Mate has a Bavarian but i dont fancy one (or the price) and never been a big lab fan (never say never to having one but not my first choice) Im a firm believer that the nose is in a dog from the start to a certain extent (obviously hounds have an advantage over a greyhound) and its how you bring them on that 'wakes' it up. So do you reckon that a bull cross (probably 1st cross) would be up to the job tracking wise. I wo
  25. Dan Newcombe
    For my money If it is purely for fox then i would go for a .222 / .223 (very little difference) but make sure it has a decent rate twist in the barrel to shoot the 55 gn bullets. They are sweeter to shoot than the .22-250 (and i use a .22-250) and although slower / more drop you just need to hold a touch more. If you are likley to want to do deer as well then the .243 will do both better than any other factory round IMO. Do not under estimate the potency of the .222 / .223 because with a mod on there they barely move, meaning easy accuracy and confidence which leads to good shootin
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