Dan Newcombe
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Everything posted by Dan Newcombe
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Too much protein in a diet and you end up with a very hard muscled dog but one that has little fat because the energy is used building muscle. My gundogs were on a high protein diet and they were fit as hell but no fat at all so i changed to a higher carbohydrate diet and they have improved no end.
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Got a bit click happy on Ebay so this week i have ended up with 2 pairs of boots. Both of them arrived and i have chosen the pair that fit me better hence these being up for re sale. They arent mint condition but i would say that they are good condition as can bee seen in the picture This is a link with more quality photos of the new boots (bearing in mind that the ones i have arent mint condition) and a bit of a blurb. They say 9.5/44 but i have Meindl Glockners in 9.5 and these are a wee bit tight if anything (i would probably keep them if i didnt have the other pair but i have
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The training the parent has had shouldn't reflect on the price otherwise someone who had a pro trained dog would be charging even more. Joe Irving said it best that some of the highest quality dogs will spend their life in front of the fire and never see a shooting day but they have more potential and would throw better pups than a lot of the rubbish shooting people use. Personally i would always try to get a pedigree purely because otherwise you are limiting yourself right off the bat. I'm not writing off a 'springerdor' but i would always refer to it as a mongrel out of principle Coursin
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3 is good, we have a couple of blokes that come with 2 but more is better IF they are well trained (a lot of pickers up seem to have less well trained dogs than the beaters do, just more of them!) One thing i will say is that with a single spaniel you will need to be getting right into the cover yourself in order to do a half decent job and get the dog working both sides of you (as if beating). Not glamorous and a lot of the people doing it regard picking up as an easy option btu it isn't. As i said, good luck with it and you will soon be getting yourself another dog i reckon!
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Freddie Flintoft = good all rounder ................ because he can do everything that is required in a day of cricket!
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I hate to say it but to be honest a picker up with one dog isnt all that much use so unless you are volunteering then you may find people reluctant to take you on. It can be done there is no doubt but you are very limited on small days let alone big ones in the area you can cover especially if you have a spaniel that has been trained for beating it will not 'get out into the country' like a good picking up dog will. Good luck in your search though, picking up is very satisfying when you can get into it.
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Id say it depends on what you are doing but that the dogs needs to be able to do all aspects of your chosen activity. Id class an all rounder as the dog that, no matter what you choose to be doing on a day will be there with you making itself useful and that is why it varies dog to dog and person to person. One person might be ferreting one morning, bushing in the afternoon and a duck flight followed by some lamping. HIS allrounder would work to the ferrets / nets etc, hunt up in the afternoon, retrieve ducks off the water and then run on the lamp (doesnt have to be all in the same day
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Got my Silver L200 4 Life for sale, only reason i am getting rid is that i now get a truck with work and it is just sitting. MOT until December and what is left of the road tax (currently SORN) Comes with and Ifor Williams Back, Alloy Wheels, Mitsubishi Seat covers all round and everything else you would expect on a 4 Life Condition is good with a couple of small dents in the tailgate and one on the front wing which i will try to get pulled out before sale. Done ~ 55,000 miles Looking for £8,000 ono Cheers
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My vote would go new shape L200 as an all round package. BUT They are all much of a muchness in reality. Off road they all go the same places with the right tyres on them, yes the defender might have the edge if it gets very silly but how often do you do that in an everyday car (and why would you?) Try a few out and see what you like, i tried the Hilux (2.5 and 3 l) and didnt like them as much as the L200 but of the 2 i would go 3.0l Up here the keepers have navaras, rangers, L200's and Isuzu but i havent seen a Hilux yet. Might be the price that means they dont use them though
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Id avoid the use of treats for this. Get on some ground with some scent on it but make sure that the game is cleared before you start. Sieves are good but tussocy grass or othe rlight cover is also fine. Into the wind cast the dog out and then 'pip' the whistle and change direction when the dog looks. As it comes past you, let is get a few yards ahead and then pip again, turn and walk away when the dog looks. Most dogs will pick this up pretty quick
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Lab every time. Simples
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Just my opinion but i wouldnt (at this stage) call the dog to you from the stop. As has already been said they will start to anticipate. Always walk back, if you think about it logically you are telling the dog that if it sits there then you will come back to it every time and it does not need to come looking for you. Apart from that the post above is pretty right but i would still stop if the dog is getting very agitated and try again another day
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I would say that if the dog is getting really very agitated then stop trying to make it sit / stay and move on to something else but when you do that call it in, sit it down and wait a while then move on to something else. Keeping going will just make the dog worry and you will get annoyed. Do something the dog can do and then finish on a high. When you are trying to build up to it you can also just stand with the dog sat for a longer period of time to start with and get it used to staying sat still, then gradually take half a step back etc etc Good luck
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Id wait a bit before you get a dog. If you are learning to shoot / newish to it the last thing you want is to be worrying about your dog. PLus you might find you dont really enjoy it as much as you thought you would and you are stuck with a dog for the next 12 years. BUT As to what dog to get, again if you wait you will figure out the best kind of dog for you. If you end up a pigeon shooter then there is no point in a spaniel. A walked up shooter then a lab will not do the job a spaniel will (no matter what people say) But for a bit of everything, a lab is hard to beat.
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Spaniel every time. I cant really see the point in a pointer on anything but the grouse moors, big stubbles and deer stalking. I very much doubt you have access to walked up grouse, if there are partridge on stubbles someone will be planning to shoot them anmd wont be very happy you are. The clue was in the question FLUSHING. A spaniel flushed, a pointer points and will never hit cover like a spaniel and also be hard (or defying the point of a pointer) to keep close enough for a shot Just my opinion but a pointer is something people have to be a bit different, people who just want
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I wouldnt expect to make any ral money out of it BUT every dog you train makes your next dog better so the next dog you train is likely to be better. I am planning a litter of cockers next year and will keep one to sell at about 10 months trained (or as far as it gets in that time). It will make a bit more money but i doubt it will cover costs but its another dog trained under the belt and that can only help the next one who is the bloke that got rid of a full trained lab if you dont mind me asking. im looking for a young dog to bring on for shooting this season and that sort
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No difference in the 2. Both Springers and Cockers hunt in pretty much the same way but you should ask yourself one thing. 'Why would someone with a good cocker or springer cross it with something other than the same breed?' you certainly dont get a better dog. Im a cocker person but they will both do the job (if the sprocker is cheap and both parents are actually decent working dogs then there is nothing wrong with one but o wouldnt have one)
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Personally i would go for a spaniel, i like cockers and as long as you keep well on top of them ALL of the time then they arent too hard to train. There is nothing to choose between a good cocker and a good springer. Labs can be given a bit more freedom without loosing all control. Never mind what anyone says, no lab will hit cover like a spaniel will. Sum up, spaniel for a working dog, lab for a family dog that works a bit. BUT If i was you i would hold back from getting the dog until you decide if you actually want to continue shooting, otherwise you might end up with a 1
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'been out and she did it again' Here lies your problem. Leave the dog at home on shoot days until you have the training sorted. If you take her out again too soon then you will undo months of work and never have a steady dog!. Have a look on the 'stop whistle' thread, this has been done on there the other day. Basics are heel work, sit whistle, stop whistle need to be 100% before she sees anything she can chase again. Will be very boring and i totally understand your desire to get out on a shoot with her but in the end it is worth it. I have a lot more respect for people who le
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I would also try perfecting her heel work, this will let you get control back if it all goes wrong and bring the focus back on you. Dont worry about her becoming 'sticky', its a lot easier to rev a dog up than rein it in!
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Same as above There is no shortcut to this it is all down to perseverance. Tell her to sit, then blow the stop whistle when she does it (right in front of you not when she is running around) Keep doing this until she sits instantly to the whistle every time. Then do it when she is mooching about (not when she is taking off after something, she will just ignore it). Use the stop regularly and chuck a dummy so it is not boring her too much. Then when you throw the dummy, send her and stop her halfway. If she doesnt stop just take the retrieve back and move on. You will gr
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You have PM
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working lab...but not kc reg...
Dan Newcombe replied to bettywobble28's topic in Gundogs & Retrievers
Interesting question If you can honestly say that the dog is a good worker and has a clear bill of health then there is no reason not to breed her. Personally i would not take a pup from you because i have seen enough working dogs that are claimed to be 'good' to have formed a pretty cynical view of this claim (not saying thats the case but i prefer to see) However if i had seen her work and was impressed and you picked a good sire then i would not mind much about papers. I think the big question is 'what are you going to gain in breeding a litter that you wouldnt have from buy -
Leave the dog at home! No offense but you dont know what is going on yourself, throw in an untrained dog in a situation where there is likely to be a lot of birds and you are asking for trouble. There is nothing quite as likely to ruin a day for you (and everyone else) than a dog running wild Leave the dog at home and work on the stop whistle and the recall until it is 100% and ideally the dog stops to the flush or at least ignores the flush. It may (should) be ready for next season if you put the work in now to the training unless it is a total lunatic. Good luck
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This might offend but maybe you would be better off leaving it this time and taking the time up to the next season in choosing a dog you like the look of and is a really good sire, potentially having to pay the stud fee? There may be a good reason for the late need for a stud but personally it seems that you are just trying to get the pups to sell regardless of the dog, you wont even be able to see the dog work in that short time frame. Apologies if this isnt the case but i would still reccomend that you wait for teh next season and spend the time finding a good dog and getting it orga
