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Dan Newcombe

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Everything posted by Dan Newcombe

  1. Dan Newcombe
    I wrote a whole long reply to this with some guestimated figures but figured you wouldnt take notice anyway. Just go back to yor permission with your mate and accept that those bad naughty stalkers have stopped you shooting a CWD becuae they want to make a living or at least break even on stalking rights If someone invests money in a recreational lease then they are quite within their rights to want a bit of reward for that investment Just think that on a 5k lease you have to go out 36 times with a paying guest (at £140 per outing) to just cover the lease not including your time,
  2. Dan Newcombe
    Try having a chat with Rhino Rifles When i was last there they had a very nice remmy semi custom .223 for £950 i think If you tell them what you want then im sure they can sort you something out for less than that though. BUT If i was you i wouldnt look far past a Howa heavy barrel .223. About half your rifle budget and then get a second hand leupold or zeiss conquiest for ~£500 maybe less. That will run you to just over 2/3rds of your budget and you can either hide that away for future use or you could have the whole thing bedded etc Dan
  3. Dan Newcombe
    I use a .243 for roe, fallow and munties and i am more than happy with that and i would use it on reds (wih the right bullet) occasionally if the opportunity arose However if i was doing it all over again and I didnt get offered a sauer 202 for £650 then i would have stuck with 6.5x55 as my deer rifle i think (.22-250 for foxes) I would go for the 6.5x55 as an all round deer gun. More is a bit much on the small stuff and less is a bit little on the big stuff.
  4. Dan Newcombe
    No idea if i have articulated it well in my previous posts but 'plum's' situation perfectly sums up my thoughts on the dogs role. With a retrieving dog that bird would probably have been picked. Rapid collection of wounded game has to be the priority. I would rather walk around and not have a shot than wound something and then not be able to find it Plum, dont discount a spaniel, most of them will retrieve with the right guidance.
  5. Dan Newcombe
    J Davies has nicely demonstrated there that just because you post a lot on here doesnt mean you know much! Training starts the minute you get the dog home, sit at meal times, crouching down and 'pipping' the whistle to make him come back to you, 'pipping' the whistle and walking in the other direction to get the turn. To be honest i wouldnt be too concerned about this chasing (which isnt the same as not doing anything about it) but for safety you need to keep him contained in the garden. To stop the chasing i would work on the stop whistle but avoid using it to try and stop him on
  6. Dan Newcombe
    Thats what im talking about, the deliberate crosses. And even more so when they are charging good money for them. A lady near me crossed a springer to a nice lab. She told me that it was because her lab was too well bred and 'too pure a lab' to cross with another lab (didnt believe me when i told her this was rubbish). She was selling the pups at £350 a go. Apparently a few gamekeepers bought them (despite neither of the parents being working dogs). You always hear about someone who saw the cross and it was working well but you never hear about the straight cocker, lab, springer (
  7. Dan Newcombe
    My feeling is that if you have a spaniel that wont retrieve, then you only have half a spaniel (i read it somewhere once) Now some people dont have the opportunity to rough shoot and in a beating line its probably a bonus to have a dog that has not interest in retrieving (my cocker looks up and sits for a mark every time there is a close ish gunshot so its always crossing his mind tat he might be retrieving) But in a rough shooting dog the most important thing is to retrieve, in the same way that if nothing is flushed then there is nothign to shoot whats the point of flushing something
  8. Dan Newcombe
    I have always been curious why people breed dogs that are from different areas of expertise? I can see the logic of crossing a cocker and a springer as long as it is for the right reasons, to put a dog with the working style you like to a bitch of a style you like. You will end up with a spaniel whatever way the cross goes and both types worj in the same way. Therefore you get a flushing dog! However you will not end up with a dog that is better than either parent as you are basically going back in time to a period when the two breeds were not seperate. the thing that i dont really
  9. Dan Newcombe
    I havent read the article and dont know the author but i would hazard a guess at what he means. The most important part of shooting is getting the game back to you either dead or even more importantly for dispatch. Therefore the most important (read primary) function for the dog is to get whatever you shoot back to you. I have spaniels and they are without a doubt primarily hunting dogs in their mentality BUT i can walk along and flush things for myself. What i cannot do is track down a runner and bring it to hand and what i will not do (there is a difference) is swim in a cold lake to
  10. Dan Newcombe
    I often zero at 50 yard bang on. Purely because this takes some of the variable out. Then take it back to 100 and it should be just a touch high. This will do you for stalking ranges Just how i do it but its simple
  11. Dan Newcombe

    Just seen that you have got some Meindl Glockner boots, sorry for the message out of the blue

    Am looking for some at the moment and was wondering if you find them a bit too stiff for normal walking etc and that there is a loss of 'feeling' for stalking and stuff?

  12. Dan Newcombe
    In your situation i would shy away from getting 2 dogs, especially young dogs. You will run the real risk of them forming themselves into a 'terrible twosome' due to the amount of time that they will be spending together and not forming a pack with you. If you are going to take on 2 dogs at the same time then they also need to have 1 on 1 time otherwise they will not bond with you and their ability to work (especially if you dont take both dogs) will be very comprimised. You in effect have 2 dogs making up one whole and without the other they have no confidence. It is possible
  13. Dan Newcombe
    In that case E Cook, how do you get a teckel or a pointer to bark when then have found a deer? One way is to hold them back off the deer and somethimes this makes them bar out of frustration. But Assuming that you are following up shot deer! I would tend to keep it on a long line which will negate the need for the barking. The benefits are that you keep an element of control while not distracting the dog (as you would if you were calling it back all the time) This means thatif you are following up a 'runner' there is a chance that you can locate the deer and have a second shot.
  14. Dan Newcombe
    Thanks On the subject of leaving it alone in the day i would say that there is not really a problem especially with a walk first thing and potentialy one in the afternoon. It might be an idea though to have a kennel outside for the dog in the day, that way you dont have to worry aboutmess in the house. It also means that you have somewhere to put it out of the way if you have guests etc. Dogs are on a basic level very lazy, they are happy to spend the day sleeping and waiting for you to get back. Even the spaniels will sleep most of the day, its you being around that keeps them on
  15. Dan Newcombe
    I have a cocker but i would say that a spaniel isnt the dog for your situation! (i wouldt have one if it wasnt working) Remember that your family have to look after the dog a lot and IMO there is a lot more margin for error in a retriever than with a spaniel and the training is easier. This means that when you are away the family will not ruin the dog (in fact they will train it). This will cause up roar but here we go. A retriever can be a useful (ish) shooting companion if it will: Come straight back Not chase Sit on command and stay sat Retrieve, obviously All the family ne
  16. Dan Newcombe
    Of the two in the title i would go for the .223. Most of the foxing i have done has been with a .222 but i have heard that these are being phased out which will make factory rounds scarce. We reload so thats not a problem. If you already reload and have the .222 gear i would have no hesitation in sticking with that round, the phasing out would worry me otherwise. Have a look at Rhino Rifles Website, theres a very smart .223 semi custom remington 700 on there for less money than a Sako (£1000 ish), they are good blokes there and easy to deal with. For the .22-250, i dont really
  17. Dan Newcombe
    If i was you i would aplpy for a .22 r/f for rabbits etc .22 centre fire for foxes, legal deer etc a bigger deer calibre such as a .308, .270 If you do this and show that you have ground to use them (someone to show you the ropes always helps) then you might get lucky and get them all if you argue right OR The police man may say you cant have a big rifle (because for some reason they thing they are significantly more dangerous) but you can have a .243 (or similar). If this happens you can just ask for fox all the time (not just stalking) on that rifle and you are laughing ebc
  18. Dan Newcombe
    Its a bit of a sore point. The DSC was brought in as a voluntary thing to show you are competant but it is slowly moving into the compulsory sphere with more and more places demanding that you have it. On the plus side it does prove that you have a very basic level of understanding in rifle safety, marksmanship and deer identification. However it will never replace time in the field. I havent done mine yet but i will be doing it (and then the level 2) and i would advise that you do as well. It might not be right but it makes everything easier. Regarding the rifle, you can use a
  19. Dan Newcombe
    I have use a Pro Hunter in .243 and a Sako in .308 I would have the Sako every time. The Mannlicher stock is, in my opinion rubbish and far to flexible. I im much more confident that the barrel is clear of the stock in the Sako Having said that the Pro Hunter is a very accurate rifle as well. Maybe bedding would help but spending that sort of money i would not want to have to modify it!
  20. Dan Newcombe
    I had a look into that as well and it just didnt feel righ to me. Very out of date list of permissions and also that money only gets you membership, most of the shooting os extra cost. Think they are struggling with numbers as i was offered a reduced rate if i would beat on some days with my dog and also offered to pay in installments Just be careful, syndicates can be tricky things Dan
  21. Dan Newcombe
    And like i said before If you worked more hours for less money you would produce more. Pretty sure you wouldnt be happy about that. Why should someone take a pay cut so you can go stalking? The stack em high and sell em cheap approach to stalking would also be an antis dream, 'is this all a deer is worth'
  22. Dan Newcombe
    Deer dont belong to anyone until they are dead and at which point they belong to the person whose land they are on. Its amazing how many people want something for nothing, Id love to do more stalking on new land but i cant afford it so i stick to invites and theground that i have gained over the years. Would you be prepared to take a pay cut so that people could have something for cheaper? Someone has to loose out and its a selfish perspective that means someone else takes a hit in order for you to get cheaper sport. Its the places that dont have stalkers on there that can
  23. Dan Newcombe
    So if you keep on the whistle then she stays close and stops but it sounds like you are trying to play a tune? I would say one way to approach this is to hunt her along as best as possible and when she isnt looking drop a dummy into some ground she has already covered and then hunt her onto it. This should over time convince her that in actual fact you know better than her where the game is and also that it is always close to you. Dan
  24. Dan Newcombe
    Sorry for the misunderstanding, i was under the impression that your problem was the fact that when you try to stop him on the whistle he comes back and sits at your feet which would indicate he isnt happy sitting at a distance and you need to go back a step. The stop and the sit are essentially the same thing and they are the same command. When you blow the stop whistle he should sit down wherever he is The problem has changed from him coming to you instead of sitting to him not coming to you because he is sitting. If the second is the case i would agree with Butcherboy, give him
  25. Dan Newcombe
    I have a feeling that what i am going to say is the same as Mick 20 has pm'd you about but just in case. I also feel you have missed a step out in the learning process of sitting to the whistle and that is having the dog sitting when away from you I would reccomend that you: Work on the sit command (i use a whistle and a raised hand to start with because the hand lets the dog know it should still be sat on the next bit as you move back) until it is an immediate reaction when you are stood with him. Once this is well ingrained then we can move on. With your hand still raised tak
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