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About andyf

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    Mega Hunter
  • Birthday 30/03/54

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  1. Winchester sub's .22

    Well: I've tried most brands over the years (37) in 5 different rifles. Anyway in 2018, Win subs previously my choice, new stuff is degraded?? RWS are still OK The best (i.e. most accurate) are GECO 42gr solids, why?? Not good for live quarry & ricochet for England (Oh dear). So at this time I have some old Win Subs in reserve. AndyF
  2. home loading q,s

    Hi! Yes reloading is a good way to go, but don't come into it expecting 'cheap' ammo, but DO expect excellent ammo! It's also a 'hobby' in it's own right, like fly tying (another of my side lines), you can brew-up your own version(s) of standard mass produced 'fodder'. No commercial ammo is particularly well made, yes the expensive types are made to a better standard, and use 'premium' components, particularly bullets, but at the end of the day it's thrown out of a clunky 'sausage machine' designed to be profitable, nothing wrong with that, and the 'best' branded ammo is pretty good (I.M O.) Reloading is best practiced by someone who is reasonably 'competent', by that I mean you are a decent DIY person, you don't call the AA when you get a puncture, or your job is in a practical skilled occupation i.e. engineer, electrician etc. Buy the best Dies, Bullets & Powder. Cases, Loading Presses, Powder scales and minor tools can be the 'cheaper' brands as they are virtually the same as the premium ones they just don't last as long in prime functionality. So go for it, I started with a 'LEE ANNIVERSERY' kit and one set of .223 dies, 30 years ago, I still use many bits of it, although I've added loads of other stuff since. AndyF
  3. A mod for the .243

    Hi: I've also got a Wildcat on my .270, but a Hardy Gen2 on my 22.250, the Hardy is really very good it has open spiral ports at the front, it's lightweight and slim, the only downside I can see is that you cant strip it down, that said the .270 is a real thumper, the 22.250 is a mild cracker by comparison. The Hardy cost around £210 I think? AF
  4. Chokes

    Chokes & 'BIG' shot. How about this then, I used to belong to a beagle fox pack (gone now F#### the greens & Tony Blair) anyway I reloaded my own AAA & SSG, in my (still got it) Berretta A303, I found by decent testing that the tighter the choke the WIDER the 'pattern' got?? Best was the cylinder bore, those SSG would smash through thick brush and take down a 50 yard Charlie, well you only needed to catch him with one. Did I say 'pattern' more like footprint. Hee Hee. AndyF
  5. Swapping 243 for 270

    I shoot a .270 and a 7x57, as said previously you won't get a runner from a .270 (I haven't anyway & I've shot my fair share). Although the 130gr is the 'usual' load mine works much better with home load Sierra 150gr soft points, heart/lungers go right through but create a veritable mishmash in the bullet path. By the way my .270 is Browning A Bolt Medalion left hand blue not stainless (spazzy-me), had it from new, Leupold Premier Scope, Wildcat Predator 8, can't miss out to 200. AF
  6. Deer rifle recommends

    Ok ; a 22.250 is fine, I've got one and although its not deer legal here, if I could I'd use it for Roe with fast expanders. But it's not so instead I go for 'bigger is better' I use either a 7x57 or .270Win, I've shot lots and NEVER had a runner so I guess that covers it? AndyF
  7. .22 Long accuracy

    Unusual best in my Sako Finnfire Varmint 16"bbl, GECO solid 42gr, target ammo but oh dear 5 shot single hole groups at 50 yds, bipod plus bench though! Not suggesting hunting with these. I do and they're ok, but their worst sin is they ricochet VERY BADLY. Other than that I use Winchester Subs, RWS Subs and Eley Subs. On the HV front I have yet to better the Velocitor they are in the same zone as the GECO, but potentially annoy the 'neighbours' so don't get used very often. AF
  8. What am i doing wrong

    Ok get some spray lube and fire it right up inside the sizing die, also all of the cases. The first one is always a bit 'tight' but this coats the die etc and the rest should be ok
  9. 22-250 vs. 223

    I have had both, currently I have a Ruger #1 in 22.250. For the actual shooting aspect, the rifle is the most important. I reload and the 22.250 case is bigger, more robust and uses Large Rifle Primers, the .223 uses Small Rifle Primers, I also have 2 larger calibre stalking rifles, which (of course) use LR Primers as well, so purely on this basis the 22.250 is the choice for me. On a practical level for foxing I have used both sorts extensively, and to be honest they are both the 'same' at least on my patch? The only variance with mine was that the 223 performed best with 55gr Nosler Varmint, the 22.250 does best with 55gr Hollow Point Sierra's but that's the rifle again.
  10. Can't Decide On A Fox Calibre

    My choice 22.250, but .223 is also fine. Both of the above are easy to get factory ammo for, usually with a choice of bullet weights and type/makes. That alone is a major thumbs up in my opinion. Plenty of rifles out there as well all the 'majors' do both calibres. Also reloading is the next step for any centrefire shooter, I've owned and reloaded both, the 22.250 is bigger the cases are more robust, and large rifle primed. the .223 is smaller, thin cased and small rifle primed, so from my experience it's a no brainer 22.250 with 55gr hollow points or Hornady red tip V Max.
  11. Suggestions...

    Used over and under. Not a trap gun, a 'sporter' with 28" barrels. At the end of the day what you can choose will depend on how much you are able to spend A decent used OU will be in the £400-£700, a 'fancy' Berretta will be £900-£1500.
  12. Ppu's Or Hornday

    You need to zero with exactly the same make, type and bullet as you intend to shoot, if that's factory then the same must be used. The whole point of zeroing is to 'tune' the scope to the barrel & ammo. For a first 'go' with a newly installed scope, or a new / different rifle yes ok use Privi to get yourself on the paper, then chuck them back in the truck and use the 'good' stuff forever afterwards. From experience a finely zeroed hand load in my 22.250 cuts a single ragged 3 shot hole at 100 yards, Through exactly the same set up Privi 55gr FMJ looked like a shotgun pattern, it was so bad I wouldn't use it for anything except a fouling shot on a cleaned barrel or to get the brass back! So the idea of setting up with Privi then using something else is not a good one! AF
  13. Reloading 308

    Just an aside; I use an RCBS 22.5 Degree taper reamer to deburr the inside edge of the neck, has to be done lightly and manually but the bullets seat very sweetly, even flat base, and it also gives the crimper a bit of leeway to do it's stuff. highly recommended.
  14. I have used Winchester Subs for years (25+) mostly because they were at worst ok and always available. They say that Olin Industries who make them have changed their manufacturing location, and that they are now slightly 'worse' than previously? Well I don't know, it's a .22 rim fire cartridge at somewhere around £45 for 500, so not exactly premium stuff to start with, so I tried a brick of Eley and a brick of RWS, and they both performed well enough for me, the zero point was even there or there abouts. So my opinion (for what that is worth), all of the above are perfectly suitable, none are significantly better than the others, all are at the upper end of the price point. Personally I wouldn't lose any sleep if I could only get one of the above in the future.
  15. Advice From .222 Shooters

    Ive just looked on Guntrader and seen new Blasers , tikka , Sako , and Anshutz . Yes muppet apart from Blazer @ £750+ Get a decent used Remy or Ruger in 223 or 22.250, I have a Ruger #1 22.250 it's a tack driver on reloads. AF