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Sirius

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Everything posted by Sirius

  1. Let's hope she carries on they way she is going she should make a handy dog
  2. Always use straw or shredded paper and chuck more in if the weather gets proper cold. I also check that there is not too much and also adequate ventilation so not to get condensation in the boxs as this can also make the bedding wet and if it freezes its bad news.
  3. It's Lurcher to Lurcher bred for generations. The long nets are normal set up, a long net running on top and bottom lines which are the same thickness on end pins.
  4. Swifthunt may correct me but a mix of deer grey collie and a dash of saluki 24"
  5. Heres a brief write up and a few pics of my last 3 trips out with the ferrets, dogs and nets... Last Sunday the weather report was terrible with heavy rain allday according to the Met Office, so on Saturday night myself and my mate had decided to cancel the following days ferreting, which we had planned. So Sunday morning came and upon inspection at 9am the rain had stopped and I chanced a quick mooch out travelling light with the dog, 3 ferrets, a handful of purse nets and a couple of traditional longnets. Driving the couple of miles to the hills was like being in a speedboat and when I saw
  6. Spot on Tomo, us lads who do a lot of hedges down south work this way on hedges. And yes rabbits often bolt into the field, if small fields they often try to cross to get to the nearest cover or run out and then down the hedge hence why it can be advisable to set a net either zig zagged or close to the hedge. But the best advise with hedges is stop nets and poke nets on the runs. If hedges are too thick or land owners get funny cutting holes in hedges try using some plastic orange fencing and punch it through the hedge to form a barrier, it often heads the rabbits back to the warrens or out
  7. Good to see you out and knocking a few rabbits over. Can't say I would be taking pups out for hours lamping personally, but good luck with that.
  8. I am surprised at the views on this thread. Seriously why would you feel the need to even contemplate the use of one? I suspect to encourage a reaction. Feeding bread and milk, ferret dentistry and using muzzles are all hideous practices and really do have no use other than potential suffering for or mustelid hunting buddy's.
  9. Cheers for the heads up....terrible business.
  10. Interesting thoughts, nice post and results. It seems unbelievable to me to use one ferret, but that's just due to the different terrain we have down here in the West Country to yourself. We have deep extensive hill warrens where you sure have to get the rabbits pushed out and at least 4-10 ferrets are needed. Even on hedges I like a good few in there dependent on size. We did a warren a few days ago emptied in 7 ferrets and it still took 10-15 mins before the rabbits started bolting. Great to read different people's experiences Brimmer keep posting, it's a good read.
  11. I easy enough when it's an adult, but think what you are going to do when it's a pup? As when their young you can't really leave them in a kennel in the same way as a adult dog.
  12. Yes you will get a sheet stating your covered.
  13. I have to have it for a few places I ferret. I use the NGO but CA are as good and a few others.
  14. I would want a sticker that never came away, and personally don't believe there are many that truly do this. All this talk of digging recently and I had a mark under a oak tree on Sunday 6ft no chance of digging it, the young hob came away after 20 mins, i very happy with that. The same hob killed one in another warren later on at 4ft, I dug him and he must of been on it 15mins or so. That's perfect for me. Keep quiet and try to avoid to much digging is perfect for me :-)
  15. I have had a couple, and the first thing to check is the rust situation, check the boot floor, wheel archs and the door pillars and sills. Steer away from sunroofs, or if they have them check them for leaks. The 300TDI engine is quality as long as its maintained, and parts are cheap. :yes: I prefer a manual, but I also have had a auto, both good, the autos will more than likely have a better milage on them, and you could just convert to manual if you wanted to, it wont cost the earth. Also watch grinding or clunking on the gearbox when you test drive it, especially going into second
  16. Well done REW, It made me think I should getout and have a crack again soon....
  17. I am always suspect of lamping on masse, cant see the fun in it at all. I lamp solo and occasionally in trusted company
  18. It's a fine balance, I work plenty of deep places, and when a ferrets going 10- 15ft down and then not moving for hours, its frankly a pain in the arse, as I don't want to be digging it or hanging round for hours either. But the flip side is, if on a hedgerow or shallow spot, you need them to stay put long enough to get a mark once the other inhabitance have all been cleared. I am no fan of digging unless really needed, so I am happy if my ferrets generally come away after 15-20 minutes. Yes maybe I have to leave the odd one under the sod in deeper spots, but getting on to the next warren
  19. So following on from the 'Sleeping starving ferret' and 'lay up's' thread. How do you like your ferrets to work when they layup on a rabbit? Stay scratching away till dug too, like a earth dog if that's possible? Or maybe come away after a short while? Or maybe have a wee 40 winks and move on after a little snackette? (joking) I think the subject as all things hunting, has a few variables and personal views. And I know what mine are. Good Hunting Sirius
  20. Hedges can be a little soul destroying when they don't go to plan. Glad it turned out ok for you in the end.
  21. I agree we work teams upto 10 during the season, that's scary amount of collars. What adds insult to injury is the fact the new mk3m are not that great either the metal parts inside just fallout after a while.
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