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matt_hooks

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Everything posted by matt_hooks

  1. matt_hooks
    Firstly, make sure you keep a decent layer of oil on the metal when you put the gun away, bare metal is likely to go rusty at a frightening rate. What gun is it? Is the black a traditional blueing (chemical or heat treatment of the outside of the metalwork that turns the metal a dark blue/black) or is it a paint type coating? You can get the barrels re-blued. It's not cheap, but if you get it done well it shouldn't wear out. You can also buy bluing chemicals that will fix it to a certain extent. The result depends on how well you prepare, and how much time you spend on it. A chemical j
  2. matt_hooks
    If you're moving from one force area to another then you will need to let the new force know you are moving in to their area, and they will need to issue you with an FAC, and you will need to return your FAC to the previous force. Make sure that you keep a copy of your FAC, as they may well try and put different conditions on.
  3. matt_hooks
    It's all about "good reason". If, for example, you live somewhere where the nearest gun shop is a long way away, then it's reasonable to ask for a larger acquire/hold limit than someone who lives next door to a gun shop. For the .22LR, the ability to purchase a decent number from the same batch, say 500, or even 1000, would seem reasonable as it means less time and ammunition used zeroing. I'd ask for 1000 to buy and 1200 to hold, and argue it along those lines. For the .243, it depends what you are going to use it for. If you will be shooting a lot, then ask for a bigger number.
  4. matt_hooks
    Depends on your budget really. ASE make a rimfire mod that is superb, but will set you back £85 plus RFD transfer. Most RFD/gunshops will stock Parker Hale's and SAK's on the shelf at around the £30 to £40 mark. Noise reduction wise, I can never tell the difference between a £30 mod and an £85 mod, but it's actually pretty subjective.
  5. matt_hooks
    £110 for threading an air rifle barrel??? I can get a centrefire rifle barrel threaded, recrowned and proof tested for less than that! Glad you told them where to go.
  6. matt_hooks
    Stumpy, you heard of google? .22LR is a .22 caliber rimfire round. The LR stands for long rifle, dervied from the .22 short and .22 long. The Wiki has loads of info on it. It's the most popular chambering in the world, and there are more .22LR rounds sold each year than all other calibers put together.
  7. matt_hooks
    Problem is most good gunsmiths won't be able to do the threading "while you wait" as they're mostly up to their necks in work. That means travelling 2 hours to drop it off, then 2 hours again to collect it a couple of weeks later.
  8. matt_hooks
    It all depends on how good you are. The mildot isn't inherently "better" than the standard crosshairs. All it does is provide an easy and consistent reference point for range correction. It's easier to say, and judge visually "one mildot holdover" than "about an inch over his head" If you spend enough time practicing then you can achieve great results from a standard crosshair, but the mildot makes it easier. If you really get in to it you can practice and set up range tables for your rifle, so you know that if you are shooting at 40 yards you need 2 mildots of holdover for example. No
  9. matt_hooks
    If you're asking how do you make it smoother, quieter and more accurate, then I'd imagine it's the same as any other rifle. Take it to pieces, polish the spring ends and make sure it's got a decent spring guide. Polish other moving parts too. Remove all lubricant and replace with a small amount of high temp (non petroleum based, probably lithium or copper) grease and reassemble. If, however, you are asking how to increase the power, then the answer is "take it to a gunsmith", who "might" be prepared to do some work to increase the power WITHIN THE LEGAL LIMITS.
  10. matt_hooks
    If you're even marginally competent with a spanner and an allen key, you should be able to take the barrel off and post it. A barrel shouldn't cost much to post, and that way you can send it to someone who you know will do a good job of it.
  11. matt_hooks
    Barry, I always use a free rolling ball bearing on a firm surface. That way you will always get it lined up properly as the bb will roll to the centre of the bore. Needs to be about a 1/2" bb though.
  12. matt_hooks
    10point, those both have the same valve on, definitely diving valves.
  13. matt_hooks
    The Supersport is a break barrel. The underlever is either an air sporter or a Superstar as Skot says. The Air sporter always felt a bit flimsy to me, the superstar is much better built. It's a good solid rifle. BSA did not make an under lever supersport. I'm surprised no-one else has said this, but stop shooting at living things until you are certain the rifle is up to it! What makes you think it's down on power?
  14. matt_hooks
    Is this the same AA S200 you had in your other post? The one that you asked £350 for initially, then reduced to £250 when it was pointed out that a new one is only £349? You've been asked the same questions here as there. Single/multi shot? Scope? Pics? Location?
  15. matt_hooks
    Not the most annoying, that's the "Go Compare" twat, but I'll agree he'd run him a close second!
  16. matt_hooks
    Is it single shot? Where abouts are you based? Have you got any pics?
  17. matt_hooks
    Have you read the post about not selling for friends?
  18. matt_hooks
    I've not had my hands on one, so can't answer for accuracy or robustness. It has a fairly long, enclosed tube by the look of things, so you'd need to be very careful with the alignment. The BB's might bounce off, but an air rifle pellet at 11.5 ft.lb certainly won't. For £40, I guess you pays your money and takes your chance. I'd definitely want to check accuracy against a calibrated chrono before trusting it. I was going to say look at the Combro chronographs, but have just looked them up and they are selling for £70! When I bought mine it was only about £20!
  19. matt_hooks
    Still say they're not tumbling. Those holes are all in the same direction, looks more like you weren't square on to the target than tumbling. Check everything is tight, the biggest cause of poor grouping is loose screws!
  20. matt_hooks
    Not asking how you know what one of those smells like! After meeting Rum midges, anything else is a piece of p**s! The little buggers will bite you through a mozzie net if it gets too close to your skin!
  21. matt_hooks
    Throw enough lead down range and you're bound to hit it eventually!
  22. matt_hooks
    The sled systems are all well, but you will lose some of the precious muzzle energy. I wonder if the open sights are an option, or an integral part of the system? Snazzy though they are, I think they'd get in the way of a scope. Also not sure how well a scope would work on that system. You'd certainly need something with a decent eye relief to prevent getting whacked in the eye. There is only one truly recoilless spriner design, and that's the Whiscombe system. I've met the designer and had the privelege to have a go on one, and they are magical, but then again you pay for the technology.
  23. matt_hooks
    Looks like a Harris bipod, though there are numerous copies which are almost as good. All Harris bipods that I've seen attach via QD stud.
  24. matt_hooks
    Try the classified section at the bottom of the forum. http://www.thehuntinglife.com/forums/topic/251091-22-cz-brno/
  25. matt_hooks
    Would you be interested in selling it instead of swapping? If so, how much do you want for it?
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