Casso
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Everything posted by Casso
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following on from whats already been put down, why do pups start this action in the nest box, if dominance is about control of resources, there are plenty of resources available milk, food etc plus no raging hormones in their bodies, if you can use the hormone concept for a teenage dog how do you explain a much earlier occurrence,
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this action usually occurs when energy isn't flowing, standing round with no movement happening, as you say he's only 10 months and its a real puppy action that starts in the first few weeks , a pup get disciplined for biting a puppy mate too hard but still wants to make a connection to get energy (play) flowing feels he cant mouth so mounts instead, it is not about Dominance, get the two of them out free running , the other pup may have snapped at your pup thus preventing the mouthing action most pups are drawn to, also you could get him on a tug item it bring the energy expression back
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no argument in my mind, there's place for both, son does kids mma and boxes , stepdaughter boxes, what i will say for boxing over most other sports nowadays there is huge respect for the ref his commands are obeyed instantly in the amateur game no question its a part of the sport that other sports could learn from and the respect for authority show,
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http://vanat.cvm.umn.edu/gaits/transGallop.html different styles of movement may explain why different animals can seemly run for longer than others, may not be solely down to stamina but running style,,
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But that is the difference, APDT deal with Pet dogs (hence the Pet Dog bit in the Assocaition of Pet Dog Trainers title) where as you're referring to a working dog. I doubt if you had issues with your spaniel's send away or a collies lift or outrun they'd be the folks to go to but if you want a steady family pet (% of dog owners) first an agility, show or leisure partner second then yes. Many of the APDT trainers do work with working dogs by the way. There is nothing wrong at all with using treats to teach recall as the dog won't or will but only reluctantly return to you if it is associat
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its funny that you mentioned apdt they are crowd that actually put me off recommending dog classes to anyone, so far up their own arse's, with no real understanding of the canine mind and no reference to drive what so ever, every recall was based on providing treats, perfect for a Yorkshire terrier but useless for anything with any sort of drive, i would think most decent owners of driven dogs have a better understanding of how it effects their mutt than most of those snake-oil salesmen,
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Well, no. He is being given food by the pack leader, not taking it from him without permission. If you decided he couldn't take food from you when he was in your space, there wouldn't be a problem would there? It really isn't a big deal. The pack leader is the empowerer as well as the authority. Lets not misconceive this as some kind of macho 'I'm the head honcho' bravado. It's just a natural part of being a pack leader. No-ones saying you need to rule dogs with an iron fist and brutality, just that the dog(s) need to know where they stand in the pecking order to feel content. I don't see t
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i can understand been able identify traits from an animal that has been bred to type for hundreds of years but as far as lurchers go, you pay your money and you take a chance, feck knows what your going to get, the genes are so mixed its a lottery , we breed in hope and keep our fingers crossed,
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some dangerous misinformation about taking food off large dogs as if it some sort of proof of your pack leadership, in some cases bitch's can take food off dogs, little dogs off big dogs and so on, possession is 9/10's of the law in a dogs mind and in a lot of cases it comes down too who ever wants it more, i make the pup come into my space to eat from the very start, so in that case he is actually taking food from me, does it make him pack leader ?? does it f**k, it leaves him with a completely calm frame of mind around people and food, a lot of aggression comes from fear ,
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heeling can be thought simply by creating a desire in the dog for an item, ball or similar , this is then used to encourage the pup to heel beside you , heel for a few meters ,then give the command heel after a few more meters , give the "yes" to tell the pup its done right and launch the ball , heeling will become a way for something exciting to happen for the pup in its own mind,,
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what age bud, i wouldn't recommend puppy classes, no offence meant leegreen but the ones i;ve come across, classes are about stopping pups doing things seemly to make them social and are for pets not working dogs, methods used on a german shepard pup would destroy a lurcher pup mentally , as far as i can figure out every dog trainer settles on a certain method and treats every dog the same, not a very open minded bunch,
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have you told her off for mouthing a rabbit while out, she seems reluctant to engage, has she been confronted about her actions while grabbing a bunny in a net or something similar or have you disciplined her for anything recently, dogs can tune us out to fit in, basically in a pack all the dogs have to fit in they become equal and opposite to each other , so when we show a strong emotional attachment to something a nervy dog can seem disinterested in it but its only the association with us that does it, if we weren't there the dog would be all over it, work on the relationship, plen
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i think the title of this thread is misleading, it gives an opinion of recklessness an experience dog can pressure his rabbit into hitting a part of the hedge its unfamiliar with, the dog knows exactly what its doing and has learnt the bunny is just sitting within, there is a big difference between that and a dog smashing itself off every fecking thing in sight, what plays out between a dog and its quarry over years of experience has thought the dog valuable lessons, every dog figures out how best to play the game given the attributes its been given,
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No one saying that what people are saying that everyone wants there dog to entry a hedge after a rabbit but its the way it entry's it slow and safe for me rather then full on and stupid. and thats the problem right there, an experienced dog who's knows how the work the hedge to its advantage is stupid, it may not be beautiful and might not win any awards for style but its very effective , how you can comment on a dog you haven't seen use it and use it well i dont know, results are all that matter, when did we start having a go at dogs because they dont catch beautifully,
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that would be the way i see it, im sure a lot of folk will say they prefare a dog that uses its brain, i dont see it that way, a mutt that hunts with all its heart has a trait that i will always admire in any animal, i ran a half bred terrier bitch for years and know in all honestly she was one of the slowest mutts i ever ran, but she had a knack of been able to hit the hedge , very rarely picked up a rabbit on the run but had an ability to use the hedge to her advantage plus zero injuries maybe i was lucky or maybe she just knew what she was doing, seems some folk think a mutt who hits the
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the collie in the dog has learnt the rabbits have a very small emotional investment compared to bigger game that drain the emotional capacity of the dog, it works along the lines of the bigger the challenge the more rewarding the feeling afterwards, a dog would have to catch 100 rabbits to equal the feelgood feeling it gets from catching 1 fox, if we think of Drive as pure emotion, the more emotion spent doing an exercise for the dog, the bigger and more attractive that action appears to the dog, an experienced dog weights up the feelgood factors of everything it hunts, a rabbit may e
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driven dogs like bull crosses and such can push themselves to an extent that their bodies can be playing catch up at times, fatigue usually brings on instinctual behavior that cuts drive off but some mutts have such a high pain threshold damage can be done while the dog may still look keen to us
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i cant understand how you get an 11 week old pup not to want to come to you ?? a pup not liking treats is like saying he dont like breathing air, he is driven through instinct to eat, there no stronger compulsion at that age, what i would be interested in is how you stock broke and house trained him, what method, because i believe the answer to it's disinterest in you, lies there
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Difficult Female, American Staghound, Advise Please...
Casso replied to Dan McDonough's topic in Lurchers & Running Dogs
i dont think its just the breed , some bitch's can be a real problem and most of the aggression was usually fear related, they would stand but when mounted would turn fearfully at the dog and attack, letting the both of them hunt together or a long walk or run sometimes eased the bitch's fears, the more the two of them got to know each other in motion not just standing round, the mind set generated by the two moving along together brought some sort of harmony -
Training in the dark
Casso replied to Rogue and running dog's topic in Working Dog Health & Training Talk
not sure where this need for recall at night came about on here but i cant think of anything worse than haven't to call a dog in after a course, dogs who chase round the field on there own after rabbits are just badly entered with no real understanding between dog and owner, a young dog started on its own taken out nice and calmly will come back after ever chase, a thing that can be worked on from the puppy stage is stopping while out walking no commands, stopping and letting the pup figure out that coming back lets the walk continue, when he walks too far ahead stop and in time the pup wi -
lurcher wont come back on the lamp
Casso replied to casey06's topic in Working Dog Health & Training Talk
dogs are externally stimulated that means that they work off triggers places , smells, sights, your dogs mindset is triggered by the set of events that lead up to lamping so by the time he enters a field , he is in complete drive mindset, and with you having no handle on your dog in this state of mind, he becomes uncontrollable, when a dog comes for recall at home he is not in Drive, there are no distractions, posts like this usually have a couple of points like ," he's fine at home in the garden or he was trained up to 10 months then he stopped listening to me , the simple thing all those -
yeah of course you can influence a dog to do your bidding,
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the thing about playing with an item is that it puts a dog in a position where its connecting with you, this may be a situation that is just too much for some sensitive dogs, it takes a dog out of its comfort zone particularly if it has been confronted for mouthing before, its not the item thats important , its the interaction with you thats the clincher, play is only a way of getting the mutt's energy channeled towards you, its about the dog expressing canine behavior with you instead of acting on in some other form most of which will bring him into conflict with you, the dog will pic
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dont play in the house bud and dont play with socks, the dog will hunt socks down in the house and tear feck out of them,
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it can be a difficult balance to get right, for me i try to focus on getting the pup to adulthood without making a complete basket case of the mutt as possible, so for me , i minimize attention the pup gets in the house the reason for this is because the pup will associate the home as a play area and when not getting attention can become a real pain in the ass, whining , ripping cushions, chewing up stuff, when you create a mindset with a certain environment the pup is programmed to act out canine behavior in that area, another thing i try to establish is a no touch when overly excite
