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john b

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Everything posted by john b

  1. john b
    I'm hoping to be able to sell Fenns any day now. Just waiting for my delivery
  2. john b
    If your neighbour is Death then you have more important things to be worried about my friend.
  3. john b
    Flushed with success from my first little project (2 caught and no new hills) I was very pleased when the landowner offered me another little bit to have a go at. I went yesterday and this was a much bigger set of tunnels - something to get stuck into. A sloped of undulating pasture with what looked to me like a clear run along the side of the fence with little feeding areas off it. After a few frustrating 'false runs' I managed to get down my three halfbarrels (more on order) and luckily I'd taken a couple of very basic sissor traps with me. So I put those in as well. Try as I might t
  4. john b
    If you look closely you can see the blue flashing lights reflecting on his hat
  5. john b
    Steve I've PMd you. The buttons work OK when I try them but if anyone else has a problem please let me know John
  6. john b
    That's useful input MT - thanks.
  7. john b
    Not this one John, Duffus everytime, and i mean the real ones made by Bethel Rhodes not ANY copies!. Talpex you will only ever catch one mole in, if i had a quid for every double i have had in a duffus i would be buying another new Landy this year. Regards Mole Trapper. MT that's a very good point. Just out of interest have you seen the FLATPACK ones ? Was there anything specific you didn't like about them ?
  8. john b
    I'd also happily endorse the FLATPACK company. I've had their half barrels which are excelent quality and require minimal 'tuning' in my experienc. Price varies according to quantity but if you follow the link Matt posted you'll see the packages available. The price is about £3.50 plus carriage. I've not used the FENNs yet but their reputation is a solid one. I am hoping to make them available at about £5.50 each plus Postage - I'd do you 10 for £50 plus postage. Talpex are the current favourite amongst the pros though. I think Killgerm sell them. Hope that helps.
  9. john b
    Some of you probably know that a few years ago Moley put a 'How To' video together on moleing. Filmed by himself and his wife it takes you through various types of trap, how to modify them for best results, where to set them and how to set them. I found this film really useful so I asked Moley if I could convert it to DVD for him and sell it through my site. I have now done that and it's had the Moley seal of approval so if anyone's interested drop me a PM. It's £15 plus P&P but I'll do it post free for anyone that buys it via THL. I'll move this topic to classified shortly
  10. john b
    Well A circle of diameter 12in has a radius [r] of 6in, or 0.5ft or 0.15m depending on the units your comfortamble with. The area of a circle = PI x Radius squared or PI x r x r So each hill will cover an area of 113sq in or 0.8 sq ft or 0.07 sq m 1000 hills equates to 113,097 sq in or 785 sq ft or 73 sq m give or take
  11. john b
    It's late and I've had more 'reports' on this post than I can remember for a long time. So I'm going to lock it till everyone cools off a bit
  12. john b
    There is plenty of information on the forum too if you search for it. These topics by Woodga spring to mind http://www.thehuntinglife.com/forums/index...showtopic=49799 http://www.thehuntinglife.com/forums/index...showtopic=55093 as does this one which discussed doors and locks http://www.thehuntinglife.com/forums/index...showtopic=47172
  13. john b
    This topic HERE might help to clarify for anyone who is unfamiliar with the different manufacturers
  14. john b
    Are you sure you've read those links ? Anyway, no bait required. As long as you make the closed end higher than the entry and so that light and air can flow through then curiosity is all you need. To dispatch you're best bet is to 'decant' your catch into a stout sack - work him into the corner and give him a sharp blow to the head. I build mine with a mesh inner roof so I can see what's going on and a quick release door at the end.
  15. john b
    Well that just goes to show - you never know. It's been pretty wet here overnight so I went back today just to lift the traps. If I had mud before there was no way there was going to be anything swimming through the tunnels now. On site there were no signs of fresh workings which just confirmed what I thought. I could see the first trap where the rain had just washed all the covering soil through the the holes. The second trap wasn't much better. I could barely make out the tunnels either side of the set - not back filled, just swimming in mud and water. And so casually on to
  16. john b
    It needs to be strong enough but otherwise yes - any wire. I used a section from a wire coathanger on the first few I made. This worked a treat but after a while started to rust and so didn't always swing properly. Obviously if you use galvanised wire it will last longer.
  17. john b
    muddy as a swamp I agree. It's not a question of overriding the Pest Act - section 8 of the Pest Act (as quoted) makes allowanced for the use of approved traps in approved circumstances. My interpretation is that 'in a tunnel' is by definition not 'in the open' because of the fact that it's in a tunnel. Otherwise the Spring Trap Approval order wouldn't say 'natural or artificial tunnels'. Don't you think ?
  18. john b
    Pests Act 1954 Only half the story there I think ZZW. Section 8 (3) of the act says: In subsection (1) of this section any reference to an approved trap refers to a trap of a type and make for the time being specified by order of the Minister of Agriculture and Fisheries as approved by him either generally or subject to conditions as to the animals for which or the circumstances in which it may be used, and any reference to the animals or circumstances for which a trap is approved shall be construed accordingly. http://www.opsi.gov.uk/RevisedStatutes/Acts/ukpga/1954/cukpga_1954006
  19. john b
    he-he. Fun isn't it Well done
  20. john b
    OK, see if this helps. The 'U' is pivoted under the see-saw and folds underneath it when the ramp is down and the trap is set. Once the target gets passed the middle of the see-saw, the see-saw tips and the entrance ramp rises. This allows the wire 'U' to swing upright where it props the ramp in the 'up' position.
  21. john b
    No, they need to be able to 'swing' from the top rail to allow the birds in. You can use wires instead with a coil at the top and a long 'leg' hanging down. or a long loop with a flat top, fed through a couple of screw eyes or staples
  22. john b
    Oh now I'm glad you asked that There are several threads on here that should help you http://www.thehuntinglife.com/forums/index...showtopic=10886 and this http://www.thehuntinglife.com/forums/index...ost&p=87052 and if that's not enough try here http://www.fourteenacre.pwp.blueyonder.co....rovedSeesaw.htm
  23. john b
    Moley has a very good video which shows you how to get the best out of the traps, how to set them and where to place them. It should be on DVD too in about a week. PM him.
  24. john b
    That will be his bodygrip stand Ian - like these two. The legs stick into the ground
  25. john b
    Hi Whin No I've never made any - the Midlands is just too far from the sea I suppose I'd like to have a try though - do you have any pics of how you made them ? What materials did you use ? John
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