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john b

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Everything posted by john b

  1. john b
    While your waiting try making a 'nest' of straw in one of the catch cages with a couple of eggs in. Worked well for me to get my call bird
  2. john b

    purse net pegs

    john b replied to a topic in General Talk

    Get hold of Woodga's DVD - as well as snares it shows you how to make pegs quick & easy.
  3. john b
    I can see I might have to upgrade
  4. john b
    Is that a pneumatic ?
  5. john b
    Here you go - self confidence restored ! Went back this morning to check my traps Empty But lots running around. Still had the gun in the car but not my pellet pouch - just a tin of daystate pellets. Put a few on my pocket and 2 for 3 shots ! Feel better now.
  6. john b
    Have any of you had any success using Logun Penetrator pellets on rabbits ? I've just switched from Bisley Magnum to logun (16gr) and either my aim is gone completely, or they're just bouncing off the bunnies. I did re-zero my rifle (air-arms tx200 springer) and I'm going to check it again, but I just wondered if anyone else had had problems. John
  7. john b
    If you don't think you can control him in the beating line they don't take him. There is nothing that will make the keeper madder :realmad: , or you and your mate more unpopular , than your dog running in to cover packed with birds.
  8. john b
    Foxdropper - it was my description that Jack was quoting - but thanks. What size were the box traps that went for £16 ? I'll have to start flogging some ... John
  9. john b
    Here you go mate - you're famous !!!! BBC News - Wales website very innocent you come across too
  10. john b
    How far apart can do you spread snares if you're putting a few along the same run ? John
  11. john b
    It's probably worth mentioning Woodga's DVD here too. It's a great basic grounding in making and setting.
  12. john b
    only if used as a club.
  13. john b
    I use Woodga's feather method - I tried the wire and bailing twine but found the feathers were easier to spot. I'll let the man explain it himself.
  14. john b
    OK, here we go then. SeeSaw Box Trap The box is basically a tunnel about 30" long, with an inside width of 4". The original design I saw a photo of in the book had a slopping lid, 3.5" high at the entrance up to 5 or 6 at the 'exit' and I built one like that as mk1. One end is open, the other end is sealed but has to let light in, so it can be covered in mesh or perspex. Inside there is a seesaw of thin plywood positioned so that when the trap is set, the end seesaw is touching the floor at the tunnel entrance. This provides a gentle ramp but there is still daylight visible do
  15. john b
    Hi everyone I found out about this forum on 'Hardcore Hunting' and it looks like a good one, so I've joined. I live in the Midlands and am mostly an airrifle and shotgun shooter - vermin plus driven game when I'm lucky enough. Also a bit of beating in season. Am interested in traps and trapping, particularly designing and building traps and I am just starting to have a go with snaring. I'll probably be asking lots of questions on that. And sorry lads, I don't have a dog yet. Cheers John
  16. john b
    let me know if you can't and I'll repost it here. I know a lot of people read both forums and I on't want to flood the place with my opinions
  17. john b
    I use a box like this, with a MK4 fenn in it and a lid on. I also use the seesaw traps I've posted in the 'live catch' thread John
  18. john b
    I don't know if this counts as 'clear instructions' but I've had a lot of success with 'seesaw' traps. see this link, towards the end http://www.hardcorehunting.co.uk/forum/ind...p?showtopic=227
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