Jump to content

john b

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    1,757

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by john b

  1. john b
    in fact must, not should.
  2. john b
    I should also be there - for some of the day atleast
  3. john b
    Nope. As long as they can 'see through' they just can't resist investigating. Place them at the base of trees and in areas where they play. There are some photos of locations I've has success with on my website HERE scroll almost to the bottom of the page Let's see some pics of your traps though
  4. john b
    I'd recommend you try asking for permission. Sorry, that sounds a bit glib I know, but leaving traps or snares around on land that's potentially in use by livestock is asking for trouble. Not to mention that you'll lose anything you leave there which gets spotted.
  5. john b
    This goes for any of the spam we get - just report the post asap and then leave it well alone. Reporting works best because it alerts all the mods immediately and so the first one to read the email can act. No matter how interesting the links or pics might look just do not click.
  6. john b
    Just a reminder that making copies of copyright material is illegal
  7. john b
    Looks like you've had a busy autumn already. Are you finding that all the methods work equally well ? or are some proving better at particular times or locations ?
  8. john b
    Does this help ? http://www.thehuntinglife.com/forums/index...showtopic=51075
  9. john b
    I dont think thats advisable And nor is it legal.
  10. john b
    My local pet / garden store has got a few of these in the shop for a fiver each. They're obviously some sort of promo thing and are meant to be for dog food but I think they make excellent bags for decoys or for sticking all your wet clothes into when you get back to the car. So I've had one. 40cm diameter by about the same deep, with a zip top and a carry strap. Padded and with an inner liner that looks waterproof and can be pulled out to clean but stays attached round the rim. If anyone's interested let me know and I can get you one. I reckon postage would be about £3 so that's
  11. john b
    http://www.thehuntinglife.com/forums/index...showtopic=60840
  12. john b
    And a copy if the Spring Trap Approvals Order wouldn't hurt either This is the '95 original. There is also a 2007 amendment which only shows the changes not the complete list. So Springers and Fenns are on here http://www.opsi.gov.uk/si/si1995/Uksi_19952427_en_2.htm Solways are on here http://www.opsi.gov.uk/si/si2007/uksi_20072708_en_1
  13. john b
    Play nicely you two
  14. john b
    Thanks for the plugs lads . There's no specific plan for a Fox Trap in the book although there is a larsen one and a whole chapter on mesh traps principles -( bending mesh, triggers, door oprions etc). However Higgins is quite right - there are at least two excellent posts on here from Woodga covering this Fox Trap Wire Mesh Larsen Plus another one on squirrel cages. There also a discussion thread somewhere on which type of door people favour and lets not forget the fox trap Leepy1 made from office furniture; an inspired idea.
  15. john b
    If we can confirm they're any good I might have some off you.
  16. john b
    Just wanted to say thanks to all of you that are Reporting the spam posts which we seems to be getting like mad lately. It really helps us MODS deal with it quickly.
  17. john b
    http://www.fourteenacre.pwp.blueyonder.co....bbitDropBox.htm
  18. john b
    Just a reminder that anyone trapping or shooting Woodies must do so accordance with the General License (see top of the section). You should read it, understand which license applies to your situation and ideally have a printed copy with you. You can of course eat any woodies that you cull and in my opinion that's morally the right thing to do. However hunting them for the purpose of eating is illegal. It makes little practical difference but if challenged you must know what you're about. You will also find this post of Richie's helpful in explaining how they work http://
  19. john b
    If you have a definite 'problem' then it's probably worth getting some professional help to cull them back, but if we're talking about prevention and maintenance it sounds to me like a good candidate for spring traps in boxes. That way you can clip lids on, of put a few bricks on top etc which should stop most fingers. These are not all my own but pictures I have collected off here and other forums.
  20. john b
    Well first off - well done for seeking advice and not just going out and plonking them down just anywhere. Before you can use them you must make or obtain tunnels to use them in. These can be wooden or made from natural materials but uncovered fenn traps are illegal. Read this topic from the Frequently asked questions section. http://www.thehuntinglife.com/forums/index...showtopic=37783 For some more wide ranging advice on how to use and set fenn traps have a look at this. http://www.thehuntinglife.com/forums/index...showtopic=43368
  21. john b
    OK - How about this http://www.naturalengland.org.uk/publicati...ife/WML-GO2.pdf Under Section 1(2) of the 1954 Act, all occupiers of land in a rabbit clearance area have a continuing obligation to kill or take any wild rabbits living on, or resorting to, their land, unless they can establish that it is not reasonably practicable to do so. If it is not practicable to destroy the rabbits, occupiers have an obligation to prevent the rabbits from causing damage elsewhere by, for example, fencing them in with rabbit-proof fencing.
  22. john b
    FR - I always am honest as far as I'm aware, and as fair as my judgment allows. I cleaned the thread up because I didn't think the argument was helpful and PMd you both. There are clearly some personal issues between you two which I'm not prepared to get into and nor am I in the habit of editing posts so as to leave the 'good bits' in and the 'bad bits' out. And in fact I only made them invisible so they're all still there for us to get a second opinion from Ian or anyone else. Your point was a valid one snares are hard to make - no issue with that and I've left that there. No
  23. john b
    One of the great things about this site is that it helps people learn to do things they couldn't do before. I have to agree that you won't get better than from Woodga or Snareman, but sometimes you just have to have a go yourself - that's something I can really relate to.
  24. john b
    That will be Prevention of Damage by Rabbits Act 1939 (c.43) which I'm still trying to find a copy of. The best I can get so far is on this link - but it's just the amendments. Although if I read it right some or all of the missing bits have been repealed. http://www.opsi.gov.uk/RevisedStatutes/Act...a_19390043_en_1 There are several references in the Agriculture Act 1947 and The Pest Act that talk about rabbit clearance orders and do specifically relate to the spread of rabbits. And you could read from that that the spread is against the act but it seems specific to 'Order' situ
  25. john b
    At this time of year there's plenty of food about so you might struggle a bit unless you get an attractive bait. But having said that squirrels are in 'collect and store' mode so they are perhaps more likely to pull the bait to remove it than try and eat it in situ. In my experience they don't really like sitting eating in traps anyway and so favour the 'grab and scarper' approach. I think as long as the bait if firmly fixed to the hook and the pin is set fine in the door you'll be OK. If necessary bend the hook a bit to take up any slack in the cord.
×
×
  • Create New...