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Everything posted by lgray88
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stop speaking shite boy. if you cant figure out how too work a bolt action rifle , then look on youtube and if its locked away you dont need to know.
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this weapon will be purely for long range targets, but there may come a day when it could be used for other things. i understand the use of moa and the 1/60th is one inch at 100 yards thats all good, so it definately goin to be a a scope with moa turrets and reticle. but nightforce dont do any in 1/8th clicks jsut 1/4 clicks and leupolds mark 4 is also quarter inch clicks it must be a common thing in long range scopes. but we shall see what happens liam
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I did think about a leupold mark 4 , i was planning on getting the scope from uttings on finance , i know it comes out more expensive in the end but i cant afford to get good glass and a good gun at the same time so 20-40 quid every month dont bother me for few years. if i get leupold i could always strap on the BORS if i get really lazy , ahh decsions decsions liam
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yes it will be 1000yards and if i feel i am capabel to push out further i will put that scope on my .22-250 and get a bigger mag version for it , im a little lost i dont understand how you mean if i get MOA or MRAD? sorry im not picking it up. ah ive jsut looked now i get what you mean, they come in .250 moa or .1 mrad , i think il choose the the MOA turrets easier to work 1" at 100yards than 3.6" at 100yards for MRAD liam
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that zero stop funtion would come in handy when dialling in for longer ranges , bludy good that , i take the its no functional on the windage adjustment though jsut elevation?? Ive been looking at the 5.5-22x56 version with zero stop not sure about the reticle as of yet do you think this would be sufficient enough or should i spend alittle more and get the 8-32 mag version ? liam
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you may aswell cancel it and get the last edition made i doubt there many amendments in the new one. and youll get the idea how to do it. liam
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well yeh thats what i was thinking the eighth would be more precise but nightforce are a quality product i thought they would have the option of 1/8th clicks liam
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i have decided to continue on with trying out this long range shooting, well not trying out but taking it up as im sure i will enjoy it i am decided too purchase all the other bits and pieces before makeing a desicion on a rifle yet. , but im looking throught the range of nightforce scopes and I have a few things that i am confused about. i shall jsut list them for easyness. What reticle is most useful to me for long range shooting? What click value will i need as i see most a .250moa (quarter inch at 100yards???) what is MRAD? (something to do with radians??) Zero Stop Functio
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any tips, other than not to shoot myself?
lgray88 replied to JPTfellterrier's topic in Rimfire, Centrefire & Shotguns
what do you need to know, but as for the .22 is a very good idea start with something smaller . 243 is alittle expessive just for practising with -
haha yeh i got it after id typed it down and posted, its sunday, another slow day its to be expected !!
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i take that you mean 12-15 shots and not 12-1500 ? because that would centainly be pushin out the boat if you get a average of 13 shots to a case whihc wil be 1300 total from 100 cases, which comes too 16p each use of the case then the charge of powder is roughly 37p , and cheap hornady interlock bullets come in at 35p per bullet and large magnum primer surely cant be any more than 5 p . so it is possible to make them for £20 for twenty
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I had a look at at sako TRG in a gun shop a couple of Months ago..It was in .338 Lapua. Very nice rifle.............not for the field like....but nice for its intended purpose.. :tongue4: any ideas what the .338 lapua ammo costs over here, i looked on midway usa and it was around $130 for 20 i think , i wonder how cheap you could get it down reloading? brass seems to be the biggest expense, and the charge is roughly double to that of my .22-250
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haha i guess im proved wrong yet again . i shall have to try this primer theory. liam
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i honestly dont think for us normal guys the primers you use will make much odds, i just use the primers i got i buy a 1000 at a time so its awhile before i buy other ones, aslong as there large size i have no problems liam
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im using at the moment , 50 grain v-max bullets , Accurate 2520 36.5grains of , cci Benchrest primers and COL of 2.370inches. Let me know how you get on. liam
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for a basic set up whihc includes: lee single stage press, powder scale, powder measure,lee primer machine, chafer and debur tool, primer pocket cleaner - just under a £100 this is a kit price so its alittle cheaper than buying all seperate you will also need a set of dies which for lee ones come in at just under £30 but you would be better off purchasing a better set , i found some inaccuracies with mine. You will also require powder which ranges from around £25-35 i think , and a box of bullets will be £20ish and some primers too but they cost bugger all , so your looking all in to have
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why not just go for a custom job on the remington straight away, surely if you can aford to spend 1100 on the savage F/TR , you could spend a bit extra on a standard remmy 700 too bring it up to the spec you want. as for the ruger i cant fault that at all my friend has m77 mkII in .223 and its shooting excellent groups at 100yards with factory ammo. liam
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try www.guntrader.co.uk
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first purchase a decent book i started with the ABC'S of Reloading which did me well, once i was acustomed to the book and the process of reloading in theory, i bought the equipment i got a lee breech lock press but i never use the breech lock, the press came as a kit with everything needed to start other than the dies for your chosen caliber, you will also need a case length stud this is used to trim the case back to the factory size after resizeing , you can also get other types of case cutters but lee's is by far the simplest to begin with. id also purchase a decent flashhole cleaner and pr
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i do recall someone mentioning the flex issue of some rifle wether it was steyr i cant remember but i think they said about with a bipod on the stock came in contact with the barrel or atleast was very close , dont take my word on that have a look through past posts you may find it . liam
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you cant really go on someone elses views for what his own rifle prefers, as yours will most likley be completely diffrent, you would be best to select a few types and differents weights of bullets. Or better still work on your homeloads to acheive tighter groups try new bullets different amounts of powder and different C.O.L's as you will most definately be able to better .75inches at 100yards i have been quite lucky with my .22-250 i called up a guy who knows a damn sight more than i shall ever know, but anyway that aside he gave me a recipe that he uses reguarly and it seems to work well
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22-250 34p per shot...grin factor priceless!!! king of 22 centre fires........ 34pence is that what you work your reloads out as? what do you currently run in your .22-250 woz? im currently running, 50grain v-max heads and 36.5grains of AA 2520 CCI Benchrest Primers and Winnie brass , i was thinking mine would have worked out cheaper than 34 pence per round , i never really notice how much my supplies cost as i just send a cheque for mike too sort out down your way then its sent off , so it would be interestin too see hows yours differs from what i use. liam
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is that not a SAK moderator, did the end unscrew and out came a solid bit of aluminium that had larger holes cut through it at 90 degrees to the travel of the bullet?
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ok excellent thank you, one last thing could anyone give a rough guestimate what the muzzle velocity will be of a .22-250 with a 50gr v-max bullet and 36.5grains of accurate 2520 powder i cant seem to get a reading from the load software im using , then again im abit new too it. liam
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can someone explain what they mean by maximum point blank range
