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  1. Rabbit skin

    Fleshing and salting is the simplest method, and will probably do for what you want.
  2. Location Location Location!

    Been doing well the last couple of months. We just had a serious amount of rain though last night. My back yard is flooded, and I presume the rivers are too.
  3. Location Location Location!

    Lol, fair point micky
  4. I don't put much on here lads mainly due to most of my trapping taking place before sunlight. Life is busy, and I suppose you gotta do what ya gotta do. Just thought I'd share this little concept, that might be beneficial to some of you. It's nothing new, in fact it's very simple, but works very well. It's all about the importance of location, and how you can make it benificial to your trapping success. Seeking and finding that one spot where every target animal will go. I'm talking mink here, but the same concept can be used for many other animals, including rats. Alot of us do this all the time, without even thinking about it. The more experienced you get, the more you get "an eye for it". For instance, i'll walk a riverbank looking for a good place to set a trap. A place where mink are naturally funneled to pass through a particular spot. I'm also looking for places where I can recreate such locations. For instance here I found a spot on the edge of a river where there were a couple of fallen tree's. You can probably only make out one, but there is a second tree at ground level covered and overgrown with grass and debris. Behind the tree's is a little drain running into the main rivers. A nice feature in itself to draw the attention of a mink. I checked out the area and found a little hollow under the covered tree. Maybe about two inches of a gap. Now I knew it wasn't been used by mink, but that I could get them to use it. Widen out that little hollow, and block off anything either side of it. Mink like most animals will take the route of least resistance when going from A to B. They'll also usually take the shortest route. I apologise for the poor pics, but you'll get the gist. This is the gap under the fallen tree I widened out. I then set the trap. I'm using a tube trap in this case, but a cubbied Fenn or bodygrip will work just the same. I find the tubes handy in this situation, because I peg them down, and can remove a kill and reset without moving the trap. Anyway, set the trap, and a wedge of of grass around the trap, and it's done. No bait, lure or anything else. I was fortunate enough to have this lad the next morning. I got five out of six mink at this set. The other one was caught in a baited set further up the bank, on a morning where I also had one in this trap. So it just goes to show if you can pick out these little places, that they can turn out to be deadly.
  5. No one noticed. ?

    Never noticed micky. It was a good catch on that rabbit, even though the trap was technically the wrong way round. They really are a perfect rabbit trap ain't they.

    Lol Micky, your not the average Joe soap, that's for sure

    Nicely done micky. How do you carry your traps to location? Just by hand, game bag? I find three or four is as much as I can handle, especially if it's a walk.

    Is the trap in the first picture the one that had the rabbit in it? The trap looked like it hardly moved from where it was set.
  9. Pesky squirrel

    True! We got some greys, but reds also in the area. Nice to see the reds about.
  10. Pesky squirrel

    Nicely caught Mr Teapot. Any pics of the box design? I'd love to give squirrel trapping a go, but too many reds around here.
  11. conibear pans

    Yea I see where your coming from micky. Thing is, with the bodygrip, it's already too late. The head is already inside those jaws. An animal instinctively jumps when a trap goes off. Can jump clear of a fenn, if cubby etc is too hIgh, but the top jaw of the bodygrip won't allow that. Why the majority of traps use the pan trigger. Anyway, think we're going around in circles here. I know an old boy who traps a lot of mink each winter. Thirty to forty a year, and he'll use nothing only Fenn. I asked him once, would he not try the bodygrips, tube traps etc? He answered, naaa, sure why would I! I get all I want with the Fenn's.
  12. conibear pans

    But think about it micky. What would slow an animal quicker, a pan which could be covered with leaves or grass etc, or wires which have to be pushed out of the way with the animals face. One aspect of using pans on a bodygrip is that for the most part, it results in a body, or as they say suitcase catch. I think thats what we all aim for. That animal see's nothing in its way. Nothing to slow it down. Wires, especially unmodified, means he has to squeeze through it. You mentioned rabbits etc going through fences all the time, and that's tru. You also said that you find bodygrips work well on fences and that's where you use them. But the thing is your limiting the trap. I use both for different situations. For a hole in a bank or root system I think the pan will shine. Also like them in baited cubby's. I'll use wires on fencelines and runs. The only other thing I can say is "don't knock it till you try it" lol
  13. conibear pans

    Personally I spray paint with rustopium. I find it both easy on the pocket and it holds up well, even in water. Lots on here don't bother treating traps at all. They don't feel the need, and who am I to argue lol
  14. conibear pans

    Well each to their own I suppose. Personally from experience, I know I catch more with the pans, with t he type of trapping I do. I think theyou really shine used in cubby's, pockets etc. Don't get me wrong, I still use wire triggers also. But even at that, I tend to modify them to suit my needs. I always try to keep an eye on what trappers are doing in the US., and pans are really catching on there. I think those guy's know a thing or two about trapping, don't they. Ain't saying their the B all and end all, but certainly no novelty piece.
  15. Trap Setting Lesson

    yea for free!