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Everything posted by Cedric
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I'll try an identical test as soon as the weather clears up, then, if my bullets arrive, I'll try them. I had some Remington 45gr given and they didn't do very well but I won't really kown until I load some. It's a bit of a waste buying 100 bullets then finding after 10 that they don't suit the rifle !
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That pic was just to illustrate the bullet length, I don't load like that . Here is a pic of my regular load. That is what shot # 2 & 4. I know we all pull shots but i can't account for that one, you usually know. Fliers like that occur regularly, often to the same direction. The barrel is quite short, 16 1/2". I'm using Lilgun powder.
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Charlie - .224 bullets; rifle had 25 rounds through it since cleaning before this session; I haven't tried without the mod. Alll the rounds were hand loads and crimped. The bullets I have available at the moment are Hornady 40gr. V-Max which are longer than the Hornady 35gr. Hornet specific bullets (flat bottomed) so there is a problem with seating too deep and the lip of the case protruding over the ogive.(see pic) I can get away with just seating them on the very edge of the straight section (which gives problem of fitting into the magazine). On a couple of batches I've clipped the p
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I have a CZ 527 in .22 Hornet and I'm finding that it shoots better with a warm barrel. My first couple of shots from cold are often well off, then it settles down. Anyone else found this with their Hornet? I'm wondering if it is the throat dimensions. In the pic #1 was a cold barrel, the rest followed with 1&3 being hand loads with a slightly longer o.a.l. than # 2 & 4. #4 was down 1 click from #2 but still showed a flier ( which is not uncommon with this rifle!).
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Greenkeeper - I found reloading very interesting if a bit tedious at times but very satisfying. I bought a kit (Lee) from Kranks plus a couple of extra dies and off I went. Lots of good relaoding vids on YouTube and you don't need a lot of complicated info for the lowley Hornet. I'm pushed for space so set up a temporary bench in my office (den!). I've had a few minor problems but reasonably successful. It's most interesting finding out the different levels of accuarcy with differing loads etc.
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Celtic - with the load I'm using, zeroed at 100 yards I get less than 2" drop at 150.
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I was thinking under £300 but would settle for second hand if in good nick. I've tried a Nikko Sterling Target Master 6-24x44 on it and the mag is fine (if a bit restricted in field of view terms on x18) but i can't seem to get on with it very well. I find it difficult to achieve correct eye relief and position, it's also second hand and I'm not convinced that the adjustments are working spot on, lost confidence in it.
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I've not long had my Hornet and it's great fun. I also started reloading which makes the cost reasonable, trouble is the more i load the more i shoot ! It has taken a bit of getting used to - scope setup, different cartridge lengths etc. but it is very accurate at 100 yards so far, now I'm going to try further, I'm aiming to be able to head shoot rabbits at 150. I swapped my HMR for the Hornet and it has proved to be much better in windy conditions.
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Need some advice! I want a scope to use on a .22 Hornet. Because my eyesight is not what it used to be I need at least x18 mag. so I was thinking of getting a scope with more mag. and not using it on it's maximum ( which can be problematic) and with side focus. IR is not really necessary but good low light capabilities are a plus. I don't think I need anything more than a 50mm objective, maybe less. Mil dot reticule is not required but would be OK if the centre had plain cross hairs ( no centre dot as in the Hawke Endurance, it just about covers a rabbits head at 150 yards).
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How do you get a shock from an electric fence if you are wearing rubber boots i.e. wellies ?
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A tip I got about how to check if a fence was live is to hold a few blades of grass across it, then a tiny jolt can be felt, not enough to bother you.
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Any tips on cutting through rabbit fur? I've been finding that when I try to run my knife along a rabbits belly to gut it my knife tip is clogging with fur and riding over the skin. The knife is pretty sharp.
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Any tips on cutting through rabbit fur? I've been finding that when I try to run my knife along a rabbits belly to gut it my knife tip is clogging with fur and riding over the skin. The knife is pretty sharp.
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Just popped out to get a rabbit for tomorrows diner, spotted about a dozen in a paddock and slide the rifle through some sheep netting to get a shot – next thing there are blue sparks on the barrel ! I knew there was an electric fence along the top but didn’t spot another wire half way down. Think I’d learn as I get older. But what a nice evening, really warm, walking across the fields in a shirt and light jacket I was about sweating.
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It's not only on the ranges! There is a local air gun shop where the staff, unless you are wearing a bommer jacket covered in bling badges and a baseball cap with the peak bent into a wedge, treat you as though you are some sort of plinking dope and can not possibly understand air rifles. Mind you, it doesn't stop them selling a novice an SMK ("full power") plus a tin of "quality" Wasp pellets.
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I don't kown if it's relevant but I tried a couple of groups today, one at x12 mag. and one at x18. 1/2" bull. The shots to the left are probably my old eyes getting tired concentrating of the sight picture.
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With my dodgy eyes I was struggling with x9 at 100 yards so I put a 6-24 on my Hornet and have been using x18. It's very good for zeroing but I've found if I shoot and the quarry jumps or runs I loose sight of it so am going to try it at x12 for a wider field of view. A fox at 120 yards on x18 looks like a buffalo !
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The Swift Nightingale mod is easy to clean so no problems there. When I zeroed the rifle on Monday I stupidly forgot to mark which target it was, so had no reference today. I fired three , which were well off and rezeroed. Three shots touching at 100 yards. Took the mod off and screwed it back on again - no change of POI - so I'll try it again tomorrow and see if has altered. Maybe I've cured it ! As an aside, I loaded three batches of cartridges with different c.o.a.l's. One near the factory ammo, one at max recommended length and one in between. The result was no practrical difference a
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I was told not to get any with "fire or ultrafire" in the name. I can't say all are the same but a lot are recycled laptop batteries soldered into a new case. There is a British guy on e-bay selling decent batteries but I can't remember his name at the moment ( not a lot of use to you). I would think major brands would be best.
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SAK has been on - and off -10/22 and Anshutz 1417 .22lr. as I have a Swift Stubby as well.
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Too windy to try it today but after I had fired 20 rounds yesterday and inspected the crown and base where the mod sits there was no sign of any crud build up, well, not to any appreciable extent. I had been trying different mods on it, including a SAK ( not as high spec as the Nightingale) and wondered if powder residue was blowing back from the inside of the mod. I have wonderd about the short barrel, it came short and as the threads were nakered I had to have it shortened even more. However, despite the loosing zero problem it is quite accurate, about 3/4" groups at 100 yards.
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Variable Or Fixed Magnification???
Cedric replied to Andrew Russ's topic in Shooting Equipment & Accessories
A .22 needs a decent mil dot ( to calculate drop at longer ranges) but changing magnification alters the range between dots so fixed mag might be preferable. Zero at 50 or 60 yards. On my hmr I use a 3-9x50 Bushnell, excelent in low light and easy to vary mag to increase field of view. Changing mag has no effect on zero. Zero at 100 yards, you don't need mil dots to calculate the hold over. -
That could be the case, I wonder if I switching to a faster burning powder would solve it. I'm using Lilgun at the moment and I believe it is fairly slow burning. I rezeroed today and have cleaned the threads, will see what happens tomorrow.
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Not much good for the taxidermist then ?
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I've been struggling with my .22 Hornet loosing zero. After eliminating scope etc. I'm down to considering the moderator and how it might not be seating identically each time I screw it on. Once fitted and zeroed it shoots consistently until it is moved again. When I was checking the threads I noticed that the crown was covered in a granular, black crud. I looked inside the mod. and saw the same around the top of the threads. So I wondered if this was enough to stop the mod seating consistently? I've cleaned it off and will try it again this week, cleaning between uses. My question is,
