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skycat

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Everything posted by skycat

  1. Providing a dog gets a good all round education in the field while its growing up: like jumping ditches when it is NOT chasing something to begin with (saw one or two uneducated dogs kill themselves falling in big drains (ditches) on the fens.) then once a dog has got used to the difference between long ears and rabbits I've never had a problem. IMO all dogs should be used to running stuff by day before they are taken lamping: they need to learn field craft and look out for the dangers like wire etc before they're actually on something. I used to notice that dogs first run on long ears
  2. Don't forget that feeding raw is as much about giving the dog raw meaty bones to chew: cleans the teeth, exercises the jaw and neck muscles and just as importantly gives the dog something to do in the kennel! Keeps them happy and content. If you have a pup issue then putting your older dog in a kennel with a good big bone will not only keep the pup away from him and give him the space he needs but also make him feel more secure and relaxed: weight loss doesn't always have a physical cause and it could just as easily be stress or worry: just like in people.
  3. I would NEVER feed a dog the amount it says on a pack UNLESS that happens to be the right amount for the dog: in other words, what will make one dog fat may starve another dog of the same size. Just like humans, some dogs need more food than others. You don't say what is in these packs you bought. IMo it is not a good idea to feed exactly the same type of food, whether it be chicken, beef or anything else all the time: what I mean is that you need to vary the type of meat you give your dog: chicken lacks certain things, and if you feed only muscle meat: ie red beef muscle meat, then your
  4. That's worse than the woman who told me that I shouldn't be ferreting in February because the ferrets would eat the pheasant eggs that pheasants lay down rabbit holes!!!!!
  5. It all depends on the temperament and breeding of the dogs. At the moment your dog is still very much a pup so if you try and kennel the two together it won't be fair on the younger pup. Pups get damaged very easily in rough play so it wouldn't be safe to kennel them together whether it is a dog or a bitch. Personally I'd go for a bitch as that way you're unlikely to have relationship/dominance problems. If you keep a bitch in season right next to a dog then that is really unfair on the dog: you'd need to have a solitary confinement kennel and run where neither dog can see eachoth
  6. Sow it on! Get a really big needle and some horse mane plaiting thread and some Elastoplast for your fingers which will get sore LOL Actually a pair of pliers will make the job easier: use them to push and pull the needle and thread through the skin and canvas. Sow the skin on to the canvas dummy at each end so it does'nt slide out and sow up the two edges of the skin where they join: job done!
  7. Do you mean that one of the toe joints is swollen? If that is the case then the dog has likely dislocated a toe: then popped it back in. Very common when running on rough ground. Only problem is that the ligaments which hold the toe bones in place will be either stretched or torn: the dog needs AT LEAST a month on the lead plus massage to the joint (gently!) with something like Bone Radiol.
  8. It could be a sprain, which could take up to 3 months to heal properly. When a joint is sprained it stretches, even tears, the ligaments which hold the bones together. These injuries take forever to heal: get the dog to a greyhound man/vet for a proper diagnosis: it could even be a torn muscle: don't take any chances as it its not treated proerly now it could ruin the dog for good.
  9. I know Drontal has its limitations: Milbemax does just about every kind of worm, but you can only get it from the vet unless you have the right contacts. You can buy Drontal over the net with no problem and I've never known it upset even a tiny pup's stomach, unlike Lopatol, for example, which makes some dogs throw up. As Milbemax is Australian it caters for the worms we don't see too often in the UK:( heart and lung worm for example. ) as well as ordinary tape worm etc. I'll be getting that the next time I do a general worming of all the adult dogs just to be on the safe side. Edite
  10. Spraying a little pup with water won't do her any good at all: won't cure the problem and will badly affect her relationship and trust with you. Was the pup taken from its litter too young? Is she cold at night? Do you let her demand attention of you all the time when your're about? Does she see you as her lifeline/reason for living? Is she insecure? For a pup to be alone is the worst thing in the world if it is not happy and settled in the home: its like being rejected from the pack: which in the wild means death most likely. Have you tried sleeping downstairs with the pup in a
  11. I thought I would put up some information about worming puppies. Please don't think I'm trying to be a know all or preaching: but it is obvious from some of the photos of pups for sale on here that the puppies are carrying a pretty big round worm burden. Puppies of 6 - 9 weeks, if not wormed properly (with the correct dosage or type of wormer) will be well stuffed with worms at this age. ALL puppies have worms, no matter how careful you are and how well you wormed the bitch. The roundworm cysts which are found in EVERY dog alive, become active when the bitch is pregnant and the larvae mi
  12. An 11 year old child should NOT be in sole charge of any animal. If the parents won't supervise the correct feeding etc of an animal then it should be rehomed: end of.
  13. My terriers have had that scabby stuff then bald on their heads before now. I always bang a bit of neat TCP on it and it goes away! I reckon its when they come into contact with some plant irritant when they're bushing: can't think of any other reason. Mine don't itch either and its defo not mange.
  14. Change the time that you feed her or cut down on the number of feeds: that might help. She has obviously got the wrong idea initially about where to go. Can be a real problem if she's got to this age! What do you feed her on? If you feed raw that will cut down on the amount of waste she passes so she will need to go less often and won't crap so much either. Try feeding her late at night: that way she won't need to go during the night. Make sure she has plenty of exercise before she goes to bed so she'll have time to crap and also be tired.
  15. Tried it a few years ago: didn't like it: lot of waste!
  16. A laot of dogs are loose when when cereal based complete foods: that is when the greater part of the food is cereal: wheat, soy, beet pulp etc. Look for foods were the first ingredient listed on the bag is meat: Iams, Purina Pro Plan to name but two. Yes, they are a lot more expensive that the cheap sh*t stuff, but you feed a lot less and do a dog more good.
  17. If I was you I definitely wouldn't get a Whip/Grey: your'e far up north there: its bloody cold and you'd be better off with something with a decent coat, a biggish stride and feet as tough as old boots: I reckon a Whip/Grey would shred/damage its feet in no time at all on rough moorland. How about Beardie/Grey or if you want something bigger then add a bit of Deer/Grey? You need brains for it to learn to cope with the terrain: good feet and coat too.
  18. Is it possible that she can hear another dog howling/barking far away? Something you can't even hear? You say that nothing has changed: have you got new neighbours? New dog next door? Is she about to come in season? Has she been in season recently? Have you recently got another dog? Changed her food? Going through a dodgy time in your relationship (if you are in one that is)? Any number of things may have made her howl: try and eliminate them one by one as if she has always been quiet before then something is definitely upsetting her and you don't really want to punish her for doing s
  19. DAve Sleight told me this trick many years ago, and it works and the dog has no idea what you have done so there's no conflict or hurting his mouth etc. Just pinch the flap of skin where the hind leg joins the body. Do it fast and only as hard as you need to, keeping hold of the rabbit with the other hand. The dog will startle and maybe turn his head round to see what 'stung' him, and as he does so his grip on the rabbit will relax, if only a bit. That is the time you whip the rabbit away from him and praise him. I've never known this not to work and after a bit you'll only have to
  20. That sounds like an amazing device: I'd like to hear more about it. For my dogs with black nails I use an old fashioned cigar cutter type clipper, that way you can slice off minute shavings of nail until you can just see the grey covering of the quick. And yes, I do know what you mean about the claw growing the same thickness all the way down: seems quite common in some dogs: just keep trimming away gently until the claw isn't pressing hard into the ground when the dog stands still. And I have to cut my dogs' claws every 10 days or so! They seem to grow far quicker when on a raw di
  21. Don't give the dog back to the guy you got it from: the best advice has already been given: the dog needs to live with other OK dogs so it can learn to be OK too. And with very experienced owner. You need to start with a well reared well socialised puppy so you can learn together. I've had rescue dogs that have behaved in the same way: lack of early socialisation will make a dog behave like this and it will probably only ever bond with one person: not being unkind, but you yourself said that you don't have a lot of experience: this dog needs someone who can read it like a book. I hope for
  22. I'd defo go with Whitehead's book: as for the other book? Well, I'm not one to slag people off but you shouldn't always believe everything you read! Stick with Whitehead 's book and you won't go far wrong.
  23. For God's sake DO NOT USE WOUND POWDER ON THAT! That is a huge wound and if you put any sort of dry dressing on it such as wound powder all you'll do is dry it up prematurely which will make the dog very uncomfortable and it will most likely nag away at it and make things worse. The area needs to be kept moist and VERY CLEAN INDEED if it is going to heal properly. Firstly you need to make sure the wound is clean: use boiled (cooled to luke warm) water with a spoonful of salt in it. Clean EVERY day very gently with cotton wool dipped in the salty water. Then smear, very gently eith
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