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Everything posted by skycat
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Tripe is low in protein, as is pasta: protein is needed for correct growth: tripe and pasta will put on weight but not the right sort of weight: you want the dog to grow strong bones and muscles, not put on fat. If you really cannot feed raw then buy the very best complete food possible: that means it will cost over £30 per 15kilo bag. Anything cheaper has cereal as the main ingredients. Look on the side of the bag under 'ingredients'. The first ingredient listed is the one there is most of.
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A pup of that age is still growing and as the large bones (leg bones) are the last to finish growing, he will still appear to be a bit over boned, especially if he has been neglected. From experience and highly reccomended by people who have tried this: lots of red meat and Vitamin C tablets (100mg daily). I know that dogs make their own VitC but apparently it helps to boost the conversion of protein to growing ability, to put it simply. Lose the biscuit if you really want to make a difference and put the dog on a raw diet: plenty of info on here or Google BARF.
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It is the triceps, known as the monkey muscle, just back of the shoulder blade about half way down the dog's body: vertically speaking. Not uncommon to rupture it. Not a huge problem in lurchers though can affect their turning ability: probably more serious in racing greyhounds where every nano second counts. Get a good back/muscle man to look at it.
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Lurchers front pad tender/sore
skycat replied to DEKAW's topic in Working Dog Health & Training Talk
Good news: the healing power of resting is vastly underated. -
help with friends lurcher
skycat replied to forest of dean redneck's topic in Working Dog Health & Training Talk
What is the dog being fed on? -
Twenty minutes round the streets, local park if you are sure she won't get attacked by other dogs. This is brilliant for socialisation. Yes, running round the garden is fine, but she won't get used to strange sights and sounds if she doesn't go out and meet different faces and places. Vital to get a pup out so its confident in different situations. If you don't socialise now that window of development will be lost forever.
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puppy food - pups wont eat
skycat replied to coursing_lad's topic in Working Dog Health & Training Talk
Feed the poor little buggers raw meat: AS NATURE INTENDED! Start with finely minced beef and chicken, with a little warm water poured on, so you get a sludgy mess they can slurp up: don't forget that pups of 3 weeks still have the mouth and tongue shape for suckling so they find eating, as such, a real chore. Always feed at body temperature (so it feels warm, not hot, to your fingers.) I HAVE NEVER had a pup refuse meat: should tell you something about what you should be feeding. Cereal is NOT NATURAL for a dog and a pup will get 10 times more nourishment from meat than it will from cere -
in pup not had pups soft lad BEEN in pup, not IN pup, (past tense) soft lad.
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Green unwashed tripe is great stuff, even though the books will tell you that it doesn't contain much nourishment: low in protein. But it must contain a fair amount of vits and mins and trace elements: just be careful to make sure you include some bone in your dog food: just beef and tripe will be lacking in some things, for example, calcium.
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Brilliant result!
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I don't think she looks as though she's had pups at all: any bitch that has had a season will have nipples that stand out more than a pup that has not yet had a season: you just can't see them if the dog has a thicker coat than this one. Yet more comments from ignorant idiots!
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YOU HAVE TO TREAT THE ENVIRONMENT!!! Whole kennels, cracks betweeen planks, both sides of beds. (Mattresses are a nightmare as there is plenty of room inside the mattress for the larvae to develop without being touched by surface spraying) In a house: TREAT THE WHOLE HOUSE: underneath surfaces of ALL unpholstered furniture, cracks behind skirting boards, between floor boards: in fact anywhere where the vaccuum can't reach. No point doing just the dogs when the fleas' eggs and larvae are in the environment. Once there is a build up it can take a while to get on top of them: I haven't
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Feckin hilarious!
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It shouldn't be hard work at all: unless the bitch has dried up prematurely or rejected the pups they will wean themselves naturally as they grow. Put in some warmed sloppy (add a bit of warm water) minced meat in a flattish dish and watch them dive in! If they don't dive in the first day try again the next day. If the bitch has a lot of milk and is happy with the pups I've had pups that didn't want meat until nearly 4 weeks old, but I've also had big litters (12) where they needed meat much earlier and were scoffing sloppy meat mix and cleaning out gutted rabbits from 3 weeks old. Ke
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If the pup was brought up in a crate and has always toileted there then your'e going to have to find an alternative to a crate: the pup has been conditioned to go in the crate from a very early age and it will take a bloody long time if ever for it to overcome this conditioning. That's why if I have brought a pup in I always like them to have been born and raised in a kennel: that way they never associate peeing etc in a house. Could you not kennel the pup? Or shut it in a lobby/utility room or something when your'e not with it.
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Good to see a bitch in such clean conditions looking contented and relaxed.
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Leave it as it is. Dogs do break teeth and I've had dogs into old age with a broken tooth that's never caused them any problem. Just watch out for it going black or green looking. A canine tooth has a mega long root which is embedded deep into the jaw bone so taking it out is a major and delicate operation and to be avoided if possible. Just keep an eye on it: it might go a bit brownish but as long as its not actually rotting or infected there should be no problem.
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I thought the original discussion was about pups growling over food: going after an animal they are not allowed to is completely different, and even the best trained and socialised pups will go through a dodgy stage when they start feeling their feet and doing a Kevin and Perry on you. Being violent to a tiny pup is out of order, but doing the necessary to a big teenage pup that is taking the p*ss is a totally different scenario, and going after livestock is something that demands the strongest type of correction IMO. But I've only ever hit a dog with a lead rope: use anything hard and if
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Dogs are different to humans: they are designed to work (hunt) on an empty stomach: if your'e going out in the evening and expect the dog to work hard it wouldn't hurt to give it a small breakfast that morning, but no later than early morning. General rule of thumb is no food for 12 hours before hard work. Even moderate exercise which might involve running a few rabbits is best done on an empty stomach for the reasons already given: twisted gut (torsion) which is usually fatal.
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my 13 mth Border Terrier not had 1st season yet?
skycat replied to tonkatoy's topic in Working Dog Health & Training Talk
I'm looking aftera friend's Border pup at the moment: when she came here about 6 weeks ago she was showing all the behavioural signs of coming season. She swelled up but there was no bleeding at all: but it was definitely a season as now her tits have bagged up a bit. Not uncommon for very unconfident bitches to have silent, or blind seasons, especially if there are other more dominant bitches in the kennels or at home (whatever: where the bitch lives). Not always the reason though: once had a very tough Lakie bitch: she only ever had blind heats all through her life, but could and w -
tpms every time:just a shame they don't deliver round my way.
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Well what if it finds a rotting animal in the field, you would stand back and let it eat it! no i think not but hey, you havent taught it not to growl at you and snap at you! think about it.. That's hardly the same thing at all: mine often find rotting rabbits when there's myxie about: I just tell them to leave it: of course young pups want to pick them up and run around with them: that's normal puppy behaviour, but as I have played with and interacted with my pups from an early age they respond immediately if I shout NO at them: that's a word all pups should learn from an early age, bu
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I'm going.
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Cage rest may not alter the set of the toe, but if you continue running a dog with a broken toe with a bone that is in several bits as this one is you will definitely inhibit healing as the constant movement will stop the bones from knitting back together as they should. This is also from experience and not from books. Common sense should tell you that a bone needs time to stick itself back together: about 6 weeks as a rule, so don't let the dog run about or jump up and down for that time: keep it on the lead and walk it only. There is a great deal of difference between a simple crack in
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George Drake at Eye near P'boro.
