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john b

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Everything posted by john b

  1. Sound a bit like it might be a bait box of some sort - used for rat poison
  2. Fascinating to see them on sale like that - obviously still a real part of the way of life there. Not legal in the UK though as you might imagine. I know them as French bird traps but I think they are common all over mainland Europe as bird and mouse traps. The base of the trap has a long, narrow loop that extends outwards and has a retaining arm attached to the end of it. The two semicircular jaws are sprung so that when the top one is bent back into the set position the retaining arms folds over and fits into a small loop on the trigger. Bait can be attached to the trigger so tha
  3. This design of trap is identified as a Fuller Vermin Trap, on page 10 of John Bailey's "British Traps for Mammals" , but I can't find that corroborated anywhere else. Not you favourite book OTC I know ....
  4. Woodga's DVD will show you all you need to get started http://www.fourteenacre.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/shopindex_files/FourteenacreProRabbitsnareDVD.htm
  5. It's not an answer to the riddle, but it does shed a little light on the survivability after such injuries Searching about on the net for anything similar I came across a USA forum dedicated to rescuing squirrels. Fair enough and each to their own I suppose and they are a native species over there. Anyway there were a couple of threads; this one is quite short and is a question about a squirrel that has turned up with a foot neatly missing. Never gets to the bottom of why, but it mentions that in NY State, the code of practice allows the release of 3 legged squirrels as they are jus
  6. Oh does that strikes a chord with me But on the subject of Mike's original post, it's an interesting design. I particularly like the sliding door idea as I've always been unhappy with the 'crossed slot' approach that I've used on wooden tunnels before.
  7. one thing this forum could really do with is a search facility In the meantime Barry, try here: http://www.thehuntin...showtopic=73656
  8. it means a tunnel, in a woodland setting. have a read of this http://www.thehuntinglife.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=43368
  9. Don't leave it too long between emptyings as they can eventually find a way out
  10. Try this then, if you can stop the chickens kicking it around .. http://www.thehuntin...showtopic=61478
  11. Bumbles have taken residence in one of the bird boxes this year. It will be interesting to watch them and maybe have a good look next spring once I'm sure the nest is abandoned. felt a bit brave this afternoon so got close with the camera.
  12. Just a bit more on the whole 'how it works' aspect of these. I have had a see-saw trap made with a 'viewing' panel on one side so that I can demonstrate it to anyone that asks. I see this being one of my props if and when Fourteenacre starts doing the country fair circuit. I also hope to film some live footage of the trap in action but that is a way off yet. However in the meant time, in another shameless piece of marketing, I have knocked up this short demo film. If anyone still hasn't got how these work, this should do it http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-6geHi4m97o chee
  13. It would be worth checking the balance of the see-saw too it might not be sensitive enough to tip for a weasel. Add a little counter weight to the top end and it will flip more easily.
  14. Strong Stuff, you're not burning my walnut. Although I might burn it myself if it turns out rubbish. In the meantime I have waxed the ends of my logs and shall store them in a dry and breezy spot. In the interests of common learning here are some photos of my efforts. No laughing Melting the wax over water Adding the wax with a spoon. Finished result. Looking at the pictures now I've probably not gone out to the edge far enough - I imagine I should have gone to the edge of the bark.
  15. Moxy Thanks for that - very helpful. The two pieces I have are quite small and still with bark on. The largest is likely to be the most useful and is 22in long by 7in diameter. There is a second, much smaller piece 18in long and only 4in diameter. From what you've said it seems by best option with these is to wax the ends and season them as they are. Would you agree ? thanks, John
  16. Looking at his location on the left hand side of his post, I'd hazard a guess that he was in Grays, Essex.
  17. Has anyone on here successfully produced own sawn timber from their own logs ? I have been given a couple of pieces of walnut and I'm trying to work out if I should 'cut then season' or 'season then cut'. Any experience out there ? Thanks John
  18. I stumbled upon this book a couple of weeks ago - an author I had never heard of before but who turns out to have been a bit of a trapping celebrity in his day. Arthur Robert Harding wrote many books on trapping, preparing furs, camp craft, prospecting and medicinal plants. If fact he was the founder of the Fur-Fish-Game magazine which is still going in the USA some 100 years later. This particular book, published in 1906, is just the sort of thing that appeals to me and is full of detailed diagrams and sketches of various traps of the period - none of which would be suitable for use
  19. Not taking any particular side in this debate it's interesting that the Solway version of the MK4 and MK6 traps were approved only 3 years ago. Admittedly the spring is said to be a bit more powerful but essentially the same basic design of trap.
  20. Ah, do you mean a ground funnel ? Of the funnel like a ladder trap ? Just to be clear shotgunny either way that is supposed to be an entrance to a large cage, it's not a trap in it's own right.
  21. The triggers work like this stubby - it's a brilliant design.
  22. see-saw trap threads: http://www.thehuntin...?showtopic=9243 http://www.thehuntin...showtopic=10886 and a bit more from my own site http://www.fourteena...BasicSeesaw.htm
  23. And take a photo of it - then we can be a bit more specific
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