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john b

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Everything posted by john b

  1. I tell you what i don't like about them - the trigger plate is very slightly wider than the striking bar. Why on earth do that ? Surely a set of fixed shoulders would ensure that the target was well and truly inside before the trap fired. As it is there's too much scope for a foul catch in my view
  2. From the photos they don't look totally gone, but there's nothing really in there very special that I spotted apart from the Gough one - I've not seen many of those. Late 1800s I think edited to say that I've been advised I might be thinking of the wrong 'Gough' and that your's is much later
  3. Just for anyone in a similar situation to Ideation, at www.vintagetraps.co.uk we do offer a commission based sales service, provided the quality and condition are up to the mark. Many of the items for sales belong to individual collectors or people who've just inherited a few.
  4. John, have you got a copy of this ? http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/0801483123
  5. That will either be the beer, the red bull or just your age ..
  6. All I can say Peter is that although we stock the 2500 we regard it as a fairly specialised piece of kit. We prefer to have a good chat with anyone that buys one to make sure they know what they're doing.
  7. If you want to get really 'edgy' Peter, try the 2500 model - no back box. Now this model really does need a tunnel (edited to say that pic is a bit bigger than I was expecting, but atleast you can see the detail )
  8. Interesting.... The original approval from the STAO '95 said: Whereas the STAO '12 says: So yes, it looks like you are right Nod. Thanks for the update. Not so fast I had a detailed discussion with people at Natural England last year and I disagree. The 2012 STAO also added a new clause right at the very start and which applies to all traps. Sneaky I know. (2) The approvals given by paragraph (1) are subject in all cases to the conditions that — (a)the trap must be used in accordance with the instructions (if any) provided by the manufacturer; and
  9. If you can get them to feed regularly at the same spot Plank then a large trap may work for woodies. The reason they work so well for feals is that they tend to be resident and feed in a relatively small area so you can build up quite a large and regular following before you make the trap live. Woodies in my experience tend to move round more so you'd have to hit them a bit quicker which may mean there aren't as many regular feeders visiting. Also ferals are more at home with artificial structures than a woody would be and so less timid from the start.
  10. Tom, these are some that I made to order a year ago or maybe two. Nothing very complex at all
  11. If you're struggling Tom, our 55s, 110s and 116s are all genuine, as are our FENNs. There have already been some good designs posted in this thread, but I can put some mesh tunnels on if you like - I'm just on the wrong computer at the moment.
  12. Nice to see pictures of the traps still with the tunnels in shot.
  13. The problem with the VAT is that there's also an £8 handling charge, and the threshold at which VAT is supposed to apply on incoming parcels is £15 or over. I've been hit before several times with a fee in which the handling charge was more than the VAT and that leaves a bad taste.
  14. I believe that killgerm now have sole UK distribution rights to those.
  15. These are based on an idea developed by Glenn 'snareman' Waters using small bore copper pipe. Glenn, Woodga and several others have been using those for some time with great results. In common with most of Glenn's other work, this idea has been given freely for the benefit of snarers everywhere. Personally after cutting about 50 buy hand I'd had enough, so we've been looking at producing them industrially for those of us without the skill, time or patience to make our own. You're one of only a handful of people who have had any so far. The samples that have gone out are to get a bit of broa
  16. Hi Ferrets. I'm the author of both of these books and I'm happy to tell you more about them. I probably don't count as a truly independent review though When I first got interested in trap making I wanted to buy a book that told me how traps worked, how they could be built and some simple plans that I could follow. The trouble was I couldn't fine one. There were lots of books giving rough dimensions, with illustrations or pictures, but nothing with any detail. In the end I just had to work most of it out through research and trial and error and at the end of it all it seemed like a
  17. There is, as far as I'm aware, no approved kill trap for foxes or birds. Cage trapping is the only means of trapping birds under the General Licences. Cage trapping is also commonly used for trapping crayfish There are countless borderline situations where you may need to trap and kill traps just aren't appropriate, whether that's because of the risk to non-target wild or domestic species, because you're engaged in a sanctioned relocation or study programme, or simply because the landowner says so. Cage traps are large, bulky, can be difficult to transport and easily spotted, s
  18. http://www.fourteenacre.co.uk/shop/professional-rabbit-snaring-by-woodga-dvd/ We sell this for and on behalf of Woodga.
  19. Rhys the gist is that the birds perch on the top rail and drop in through the ladder with their wings folded. When they try to escape they are flying, so with wings outstretched, they can't fit through. Jackdaws are a bit tricky though....
  20. Thanks Moxy I've just found this one too. It's a commercial funnel mouse trap that I was playing about with. We had a mouse in the cereal cupboard in the kitchen so over a series of nights I tried out some of my live catch trap collection. Interestingly he DID escape from this one. .
  21. My theory, and it is just a theory, is this. How often in nature does a nest appear overnight with an egg already in it ? Never would be my guess. However a new nest in a familiar territory implies a mated pair that are ready to have a brood. Time and again I see magpies returning to watch nest builders in hedges, keeping a distance but getting to know where the nest is likely to be. My approach tries to mimic the cycle in nature - allowing the magpies to discover a new nest and keep coming back looking for the eggs. . One thing that all the great trappers seems to be in a
  22. I know what you mean Logun, but funnily enough it seems to work better if you don't. It's almost as if having looked at the empty nest on and off for a while and not been able to investigate - once there IS an egg there and they can get it, the temptation is just too much. That's not based on a proper scientific study though Oh and Millets points are quite valid. A trap left unset and so unchecked will become part of the familiar environment more quickly.
  23. I made one of these a little while ago, if I remember rightly based on a picture that Fish posted on here in about 2009 I think. Anyway it is a very effective design and the basic funnel principle has been used in mouse traps for hundreds of years. The key to success is getting two dimensions right; the tube size and the gap between the floor and the bottom of the tube. I put a plan for one of these in my most recent book an a couple of lads on Shetland ended up testing the plan for a school project, and as I understand it managed to catch a mouse in the head's office. When I test
  24. Here's what I do, usually around Easter time. I put the cage out near to a hedge or somewhere that there is a bit of cover. I make a nest up right in the outside corner of the catch cage furthest out from the hedge, but leave the trap door shut so they can't get in.. After a day or maybe two, and after dark, I extend the fake nest outside the cage so it looks like it's all one nest. Break and egg and place half outside, half inside, right next to each other either side of the mesh. The effect is to look like a single nest with one broken egg in it. I then set the trap. What
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