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john b

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Everything posted by john b

  1. About 30" long if you're going for double ended. Inside width 7.5 " inside height 7" And don't forget to restrict down the entrances - a plywood cut out arch nailed onto the end is good.
  2. About 150mm square, smaller than that for Jackdaws. The old MAFF plans had the spacings hole at 9" square, if you read through this thread http://www.thehuntinglife.com/forums/topic/14348-ladder-trap/
  3. You can make one virtually any size you like, however there are some practicalities that you need to keep in mind. If you made one with a 2ft x 2ft base and 2ft high for example and put an access door in the middle of the roof, then the distance from that door to the corners is about 700mm. That is about the maximum that I can reach to grab a pigeon which is doing it's best to get as far away as possible. In my view anything bigger than that goes into a sort of operation no-mans land where it's too big to reach into fully, but too small to get inside. I think the minimum height for a
  4. Thanks for the plug This is a better link Woodga Rabbit Snaring
  5. I can help you out with that - but wait until you're in the UK and get in touch then. No point sending it all the way out there just for you to bring it back again.
  6. Actually, while we're on the subject, the latest edition of the Snaring Practitioners Guide has just been published - edition 3 Anyone snaring in Scotland should have a good read of this, whether you agree with it or not. http://www.scotland.gov.uk/Topics/Environment/Wildlife-Habitats/paw-scotland/Resources/Posters/Goodpracticeadvice/Snaringguide
  7. This is a link to a very useful web page on otter vs mink tracks and signs Sussex Otters
  8. That's a difficult one to answer Mike. It was originally set up as a baited trap but that was some time ago - I think between them the mice, the slugs and the ants will have had the bait away long since. However it was never placed as a run-through (as you'll see in the pic below) and has the 'under and over' baffles that mean it doesn't look like a run-through from ground level. I stopped using run-throughs some time ago in this location because we had a lot of hedgehogs, some of which seemed very determined. I think there may have been some vestiges of the bait scent still there a
  9. I was reminded today about the benefits of having a few traps about the place, set in a safe and discreet manner. And of the importance of checking them. My neighbour has a large area of decking at the end of his garden, not properly sealed off at the edges and a perfect location for nesting rats. The latest infestation was dealt with during the summer but I have a few MK4s about the place in boxes - ideal for keeping the dog and the kids out of it. Looks like there was a new tenant taking a look. I just hope he was the advance party and not a new resident. It also looks like I n
  10. Sounds like a job for the collarum http://www.collarum.com/ edited to add that these are available in the UK from several suppliers, although not cheap.
  11. I'm surprised that the flatpack ones need any tuning - the ones I've had from them have always been pretty well set. Having said that I do still bend the triggers a little, about halfway down and back towards the end of the trap.
  12. I think that this is a great idea for a competition. There are a lot of really ingenious things being made out there and often of a surprisingly high quality. Over the summer I added the Craftsmens' Marketplace to the Fourteenacre shop, precisely to try and showcase these kind of ideas and products. If it helps to generate a bit more interest in this topic I'd like to add to the prize pot. One of our first Craftsmen's products are some really excellent snare / trap securing cables, made by a lad who really knows his way round an engineering bench. So I'll throw in a set of five,
  13. Busy adding product to the Fourteenacre website

  14. Davy Have a look at this topic which covers similar ground. http://www.thehuntin...post__p__141973 The general position is that it is legal to use a Larsen Trap in the UK provided that you comply with the general licenses. These state a number of things: the reason that you are trapping, your responsibilities to the call bird and the caught birds and that you have the land owners permission. I think this last point would rule out Common land. In your case the license would be GL08 'To kill or take certain birds to conserve flora and fauna (including wild birds)' http://ww
  15. Let's not forget our own 'King Rat' threads of 2007 and 2008. The 2007 winner was 19" and there were a fair few approaching that length http://www.thehuntinglife.com/forums/topic/18090-king-rat-of-2007-shall-we-go-for-it/ http://www.thehuntinglife.com/forums/topic/39669-king-rat-2007-the-winner/ And the 2008 competition got to 19 3/4" in two months, before we lost the judge http://www.thehuntinglife.com/forums/topic/39793-king-rat-2008-the-official-thread/
  16. As Nod says, it's a fairly simple trigger arrangement. (Extract from Trap Making, Step by Step) The trigger uses a long straight rod attached to the side of a strip of mesh or metal, which in turn is pivoted on the trap floor as a treadle. To set the trap, the door is swung up and the treadle tilted so that the end of the rod slides through the door and the roof of the trap together. Poked through both meshes like this the rod keeps the door open. Bait is put at the back of the trap, well behind the treadle and not under it. Any animal trying to reach the bait will push or tread o
  17. I think a read of this might be useful to you too: http://www.thehuntinglife.com/forums/topic/43368-tunnel-trapping/
  18. No - I sell the wire but not the made up snares. You need Trapworks, or Woodga for that
  19. If you contact the environment agency they'll send you a tidy little pack all about crayfish trapping. In includes: Everything you need to apply for a licence ( ) A handy splashproof guide on identiying the different types of freshwater crayfish Tips on how and where to set your traps. Crayfish trapping advice packs are available from the National Fisheries Laboratory 01480 483968. http://www.environment-agency.gov.uk/homeandleisure/recreation/fishing/38045.aspx
  20. 500g would give you enough to make approximately 75, 6 strand rabbit snares. The reels have a diameter of about 80mm, getting larger as the wire is wound on top of itself.
  21. I have got a snare wire available, in a range of spool sizes, as well as Woodga's DVD which might help fill in a few of the gaps for you. http://www.fourteenacre.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/shopindex_files/FourteenacreSnarewire.htm cheers John
  22. I can't quite make out the pictures, but is that a tunnel where the can is ? with a hole in the floor down into the main cage ? Can you take a photo from directly above and another looking down at an angle And why do you think it's a trap ? Could it just be a bird or chinchilla cage ?
  23. Have a read through this topic http://www.thehuntinglife.com/forums/topic/121624-pest-control/
  24. I've never had any problems with the ones I use and sell. As you mention having frequent issues with the springs it's worth pointing out that they have to be fitted the right way. They need to be already under tension when the door is closed and fitted so that as the door is set open, it winds the coil up more. I'm not saying that you are fitting yours incorrectly, but thought it was worth a mention.
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