skycat
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Everything posted by skycat
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Incredible: yes, I felt really sorry for the mouse too: it has no chance at all: talk about realistic, though of course that movement frozen would never be captured with the naked eye even if you were lucky enough to see such a thing.
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I feel for you Socks, and I'm not being sarcastic either. Even exercising dogs is a nightmare round here, though where I walk isn't keepered or coppered: just twitchers, ramblers, public 24/7: I even bump into people walking antisocial dogs in the middle of the night. Time to move I think!
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Thank God for a few voices of reason on this beleaguered site, as opposed to the idiots "Gerron, kill it, kill it kill it" faction. I had a little lurcher bitch many years ago, took fox beautifully and with great skill, all her life. One day she came across a weasel in a grass field, and was totally nonplussed by it. The brave wee fecker stood up on its hind legs and screamed at her every time she went to pick it up, eventually making its way to safety in an old log. This was a bitch that had a very soft mouth on rabbits, worked with ferrets, and I was more impressed with the weasel's brav
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One of the smartest bull lurchers I've seen Looks very well balanced and sound.
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If Carlsberg did ferreting trips..........
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What about dogs ( or people for that matter ) who are not misunderstood,not frustrated,who do have a meaningful life......................but are violent anyway ? My common sense logic tells me they probably possess the trait for a physical tussle.....whether the dog attacks a person or another dog is not important the violent trait is there. I'm not sure if you meant a physical tussle as in the case of taking more difficult prey, or a tussle as in being violent towards other dogs? I've had several dogs that took fox very well, but who wouldn't have ever dreamed of taking a bite at an
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It was once said that violence is the symptom of a frustrated mind: this was said about human beings. If you translate, loosely, this premise into dogs, it should come as no surprise that some breeds, some dogs, turn to attacking their owners, other people etc. Not being understood, being frustrated (not being allowed, or able to fulfil their natural drive in the way they were bred to originally), it's no wonder this happens more and more often in these days where most dog owners have no clue at all about what drives their dogs. Look at how many people turn to aggression when they feel misunde
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Get plenty of fresh greens into them: young grass, greens leaves, chickweed etc. Or is there something else that may be disturbing them? How are they acting. My layers always laid right through the winter and the moult. Free range, plenty of fresh food, as well as layers pellets.
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That's so good to hear: once you have a dog that is willing to play with you, have fun, you are more than half way there.
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The more you restrict and restrain a young dog, the more it will kick out and cause problems. Imagine trying to keep a teenager tied to you! Of course there must be rules, recall etc, but most of the issues we all experience with our young dogs, particularly males, is because they HAVE to explore their boundaries, and they have to explore, full stop. Yes, it's bloody annoying at times, but young dogs are literally bursting with energy: what do you want? A few months of stress and trauma (to you I mean) or a lifetime with a dog that is resentful, under the thumb and one that has never been
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I remember seeing some old photos in a book years ago about transporting hares. They were in very narrow partitioned bits in a wooden box so they couldn't jump about or even turn round, as apparently if they are in anything much bigger than their own body width and length they go crazy and injure themselves. They also need to be kept in a dark container as opposed to a mesh crate.
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Feed raw, not cooked. Cooked bones change in composition and can't be easily digested by dogs and can get stuck in their gut. No the jelly isn't harmful at all! But don't feed cooked bones.
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600 Grams Of Dry Food 22 % Protein
skycat replied to Dranny GLC's topic in Working Dog Health & Training Talk
At 13 months he's barely finishing his growth, and like others have said, you won't get a dog of that type to look like a Labrador no matter how hard you try. You can improve his overall condition though. Feeding by how much it says to feed on a bag of dog food means nothing. Each dog is different. But I'd strongly recommend you feed him some decent meat, fat and bone as well as the dry stuff you are feeding him. 22% isn't much for a young active dog, and I dare say that the food you are feeding is more cereal than meat? -
Could be mange: I've had one susceptible dog get it after contact with a mangy fox, while the others involved never got it. Some dogs are more likely to get it than others. They can even get it from brushing up against cover/bales etc that a mangy fox has pushed past.
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It's like anything, practice makes perfect. Unless there was a very good reason for not taking them out in the summer (total lack of land to go on for example) then I'd just keep mooching about and letting them develop their skills. Won't do them much good sat in the kennel all summer.
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The only 'structural failings' I believe they have is a rather straight stifle joint. At 5 years old they've never had any problems, but they do lack a bit of top speed and take off, the latter of which isn't generally a problem due to their agility and drive. If, and I don't know if I ever intend to breed again, I did want to get a litter, I'm just mulling over what might best retain their qualities, preferably using a good working dog rather than just using one that looked the part on paper. Obviously I wouldn't want to go back to a Saluki type as they're leggy and not too heavy anyway.
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Here you go w uyang, pointer x saluki bull grey I fancy putting that dog over one of my Airedale lurchers; keep the nose, good coat and feet etc, plus biddability.
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Food intolerance? Irritant in washing powder/fabric conditioner? Stress? Dust mites? The list of possible causes is a long one. Firstly, what is the dog being fed on? An inappropriate diet is very often the cause of scratching.
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Incredible! The look on the stoat's face is so intent.
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The thing is with some Saluki types and pures is that their drive is focussed purely on what they can hunt and catch. Anything that doesn't fall into this very narrow perception of what is important to them, is bound to bore them or not even be relevant to them in any way. They simply do not perceive people as essential: but you can make them see you as essential by engaging their prey drive: hence tug play, usually with something furry, and to see you as an essential part of the ferreting team. I've had dogs similar to yours, but out ferreting they become completely focussed on what I and the
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Tug play. Using a furry lure to excite her interest, best of all take her ferreting on her own, just you and her: bet she doesn't bugger off then. It will help her to see you as essential to her fun in life.
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Dogs shouldn't have food left down all the time in the first place. Feed once or twice a day at most. I had one bitch that refused to eat anything except whole carcases all the time she was pregnant. She ate rabbit, hare, pigeon: fur and feather on: wouldn't touch dry or even minced meat. The moment she'd had the pups she ate everything I gave her: dry, mince etc etc.
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Galastop is a diuretic: in other words, it pull fluid from the body, and can, in extreme cases, lead to dehydration: not a good idea really, though I know loads of people use it. Much prefer Urtica Urens. Get it here: http://www.dorwest.com/Products/URN3C/urtica-urens-3c-three-100-pillules NOTE: DO NOT USE URTICA URENS 30C: this will increase milk production!!!
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I'd be concerned if I was only feeding tripe and heart, while tripe has the correct calcium/phosphorus ratio I'd want to feed a somewhat more varied diet to a growing pup. Knew a man who reared a litter on nothing but ox tongue and heart: 3 yearlings all broke legs and it was found they had next to no calcium in their bodies
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As part of a good mixed diet tripe is great, BUT if you are feeding fresh unwashed tripe, you have to feel each bit you feed the dogs to check there are no fencing staples, bits of barbed wire embedded in it. That means kneading each piece carefully. You'd be amazed at the number of staples, those big ones, that are snugly wrapped within the tissue!