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About david901

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    Mega Hunter

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  1. david901


    If she's never taken hare before, this time of year is totally the wrong time to get her entered. Hares are big creatures and they can seriously hurt/kill your hawk. You'd be better off putting her down for the moult and if you want to try for hares, get her on them at the start of the season and try for young inexperienced quarry. Get a dead hare or large hare lure and let her "catch" it several times. Each time she catches it, let her have her full ration. Personally, I would never feed washed DOCs. Especially if you've already reduced her weight, then your hawk could go low.
  2. david901


    Any update on the hawk?
  3. Definitely agree. A broadwing soaring above and your dog working below it, takes some beating.
  4. Brilliant stuff. He looks a cracking hawk to fly. Have you ever flown him from the soar? Many years ago, I had some cracking fun with a redtail that would soar. Amazing teardrop stoops at times. And if she lost a squirrel in a tree canopy, she would soar above as I whacked every tree around us trying to get it moving again.
  5. david901


    I had her at a higher weight 2 weeks ago and took me 2hrs to get her back Haha haha We've all been there pal. As I said, she may well be too high in condition, but no one can tell over the internet. Let me know how you get on with her Cheers bud.
  6. david901


    flew her at a hare and pheasant on Fri and gave up 20-30 meters in She may not want to do Hares mate. Not all do, but If she has caught pheasant before, it is strange she has pulled off after such a short distance. Her keel shouldn't be that sharp mate. She needs muscle and strength. They're not daft. She will know if she has got a chance of catching something. That's why if you had someone with experience that could give you hands on advice that would be good. She "may" be too heavy mate. No one can give advice about that over the internet. Good luck with her.
  7. david901


    I'm not being awkward mate, but how do you know she's not too low in condition? It may well be she's too high, but not necessarily. How is her keel? Sharp? Full of flesh? If she's too low, she won't have the energy to catch game. Fitness is not the only thing, Confidence plays a big, if not bigger part in how successful she will be Is she a secondhand hawk? Has she flown and caught game before? What game are you flying her at?
  8. david901


    It's good to ask questions mate. But I would suggest if you're going to get a Goshawk, to maybe get someone who has experience with them to give you some practical help and advice. It can help smooth things along especially with the initial training/manning etc. Just a suggestion
  9. david901


    Like I said, I have never used one before. But some machines [the BullX machine] can travel over 300 yards with the bird chasing hard. Personally, I wouldn't pay what they ask for a BullX machine so I tend to do lots of jump ups, gradually building to probably over 100 at a time. Then as she gets fitter, I would add some weight on the leash to give a bit more resistance. The hawk generally would be panting hard at the end of each session. This is for a PR goshawk. If she was an imprint, then I probably wouldn't do jump ups. Some imprints are Ok, but others can be a bit aggressive wi
  10. david901


    Just calling them to a lure won't really get them fit, but there are plenty of ways to get a gos fit, such as Jump ups, restrained pursuits, dragging a heavy creance [rope work]. You can see some of them on Youtube. But I would say flying them at difficult quarry every day is probably the best and most enjoyable way. I would start flying them as soon as they have finished the moult, if possible, on young inexperienced quarry. I usually go for corvids as game is out of season. As the season rolls on, the quarry gets harder and the gos has to try harder. This will also build con
  11. It's good that you're looking for someone to show you the ropes. It makes life easier for you AND the bird lol. As has been mentioned, there are loads of Facebook groups, but be choosey who you listen to. It might be worth having a look at some of the Falconry clubs and going on a few field meets. That way you will get to see a variety of birds flown and it might point you in the right choice of bird for your particular circumstances. Decent books are also worth reading such as Philip Glasiers' Falconry and Hawking which can be picked up fairly cheap.
  12. Giving advice over the internet isn't really a good idea regarding BOP and especially with regard to weight management. The person advising can't see the bird in question or feel its keel to see if it's fat or thin. Too much weight loss and the bird may well go low and possibly die. Trying to man a hawk that is too fat can sometimes cause the bird to hate the person and can result in aggression. The ideal solution for a beginner is to get someone who knows what they are doing locally, and who can give advice and tips on training/manning the hawk with a hands on approach. Un
  13. How does the Guide unit compare to the Pulsar Axion key?
  14. I only need a basic unit, no wifi or an ability to record is required. It is for daylight spotting small game rabbit, hare, pheasant out to about 200 yards if possible. Cheers
  15. I had a loan of my pal's Eye-ray Thermal spotter and it was a gamechanger. I was just looking for a decent spotter under £1000 that's good for daylight. What recommendations are there? Cheers
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