rjimmer
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Everything posted by rjimmer
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Some people don't use the safety. They don't close the bolt until they are ready to take a shot, because they reckon it is quieter than pushing the safety off. The gun is not cocked until the last seconds before a shot.
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I always thought that all bolt action rifles had safeties that locked the bolt. All mine are the same. BSA, Sauer, Steyr, Tikka.
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Not long before it's Engalnd as well. I've just got in from a session with decoys under the moon. The pair of wigeon that I had were a bit thin. Any more like that and I won't bother much more for a bit.
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The friend of mine who had the BRNO, next had a BSA Ralock and at some time had a Winchester Model 63 also. I think one of my neighbours has still got a model 63.
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Just to add that I did lose the bottom of a mag, but had a couple of spares anyway. My Supersport 5 is fitted with a Parker Hale sound moderator. The original lightweight model.
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Was that the Ralock, that caught the fired cases underneath?
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I still have my BSA Supersport 5 from 1968. The aficionados will tell you that the barrel is too long, but it suits me. Had thousands of subsonic rounds through it but no more than c200 HVs. I put a Zeiss 8x56 on top of it last Autumn and am looking forward to the new rabbit summer. A friend bought new BRNO at about the same time and I wished I had got one instead, but now, 40 years later, he tells me it used to jam. My BSA used to clip the nose of the first round from a full mag sometimes. You can get Kevlar mags from John Knibbs for the BSAs, but you might have to sand them down on sides t
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Don't take any notice of what is marked on a barrel or choke. A full choke barrel is a barrel that throws a full choke pattern. A half choke barrel is a barrel that throws a half choke pattern. etc., etc. Some experiments have shown that barrels marked as being tighter than Half-ThreeQuarter choke do not throw tighter patterns. Do test patterns with each choke/setting that you have and do the sums, then you will know what your gun is doing with the cartridge you use for the testing. Plastic cup-wads should pattern tighter than fibre wads. "Traditionally, the practical measure of
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Go on the pigeonwatch forum and see what dunganick thinks about Howas. When I was looking at my first C/F rifle, I was undecided on what price-range to choose. There were some cheap Midlands about at the time, but they soon got sold out, and I went for a Sauer 90. Still got it! If I had got on well with a Midland, I would probably still have that, at less than quarter the price. CZ would seem a good starter rifle to me. You might even keep it for ever. Lots of people do!
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It looks likely that shooting of wildfowl in Scotland will be stopped on January 3rd if the frezing conditions continue. http://www.basc.org.uk/
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On wildfowl, you cannot use lead shot, so plastic cup-wads will be necessary for the harder non-lead stuff. This also applies to shooting over SSSIs, where you might be shooting Snipe and Woodcock.
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John R, I think you may have mis-read Ranger V. The first part of his post was a quote from someone else. The lurcher boys from the our local traveller camp have been leaving their 'catches' to rot to save getting caught with them. I don't think that is something that Ranger V is into nowadays, if he ever was!
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The next time I see someone on the foreshore with a .410, I'll ask them how they get on with it and post back what they say.
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Don't meet many people on the foreshore carrying .410s.
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On the back of the old gun license was a guide on how to get clean kills with a shotgun. It put the effective ranges at 35 yrds for a 12 bore and 15 yrds for a .410. Not far out!
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Woodrow Wyatt(journalist and broadcaster, for the youngsters), was once stopped and questioned by French customs. When asked to spell his surname by the official holding his passport he told them: "'W' for Waterloo, 'A' for Agincourt, 'Y' for Ypres, 'T' for Trafalgar, 'T' for Trafalgar. What's this thread doing in this furum?
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Most advice will be to start off at the lower end of the charge data table and work up until the signs of high pressure start to show. Then back off a bit. Be warned! You will become addicted.
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Get the Lee Challenger kit for starters, then you can keep the lightweight Challenger press for seating the bullets, when you have later bought heavier press(Lee do a heavier one) for the resizing job. That way you can load one cartridge at a time instead of doing a batch of resizing and then having to change the dies for seating the bullets. http://www.peterlawman.co.uk/reloading.php Most people like RCBS powder scales!
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Something about not being able to proove a negative? There's a chap on a certain wildfowling forum who reckons Eley don't know enough/anything about shotgun ballistics! As long as the thread starter is not going to take notice of posts that 'appear' to be suggesting we ignore advice from established sources then job done!
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Someone shot a Manderin duck on a local flight pond. "Aren't they protected?" Said someone. "Only by feathers!" Came the reply.
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no chance, i intend to use it with the ammo its designed for that being .223 As I hoped!
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I'm glad to hear that!
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Im sure my remmington 700 manual says this. So AzMaN, will you be using Nato 5.56 ammo in your .223 Remington?
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A lot of things are 'available' in France. The dealers don't care who they sell what to. A friend of mine moved over there 3 years ago and has been offered allsorts. 22rf, .410 with Brenneke slugs, centrefire rifles. No subsonic rf though and no sound moderators. He's had to make use of an 'air rifle' mod. Must be a different part to where you went, because he says there is just nothing on the ground except a few Coypu. Every Sunday morning, the woods are full of guns shooting anything that moves, no matter who owns the land. No bird song, no rabbits, nothing!