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Everything posted by Deker
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But will they fit mine?
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That's what I did with a plasterer recently, it took me 4 months of serious effort to sort out his expert/professional job. 622a.jpg 624a.jpg Just a couple of areas, the whole job was like this. 004aa.jpg Some of the sanding I had to do to sort out the surface finish which was like an undulating rough sea, also visible some of the white filler I had to put all over the house to fill the troughs or bits he missed altogether.. That's my skirting board hiding under that plaster dust! Shocking job! ..................................................... ANYWAY. I st
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Crumbs...this really is hard work....OK, I'm obviously prepared/expect to pay for this, but I need someone asap, so I'll chuck in some shooting as well if it will help. Cheers
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Reading.... Berkshire.
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That's what I did with a plasterer recently, it took me 4 months of serious effort to sort out his expert/professional job. Just a couple of areas, the whole job was like this. Some of the sanding I had to do to sort out the surface finish which was like an undulating rough sea, also visible some of the white filler I had to put all over the house to fill the troughs or bits he missed altogether.. That's my skirting board hiding under that plaster dust! Shocking job! ..................................................... ANYWAY. I still need someone to fit s
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You may have noticed I've asked for someone to do it, but so far no takers....... yes mate, but I'm only giving you advice as I'm a joiner and know what to look for, and the amount of times I've been called to fix balls ups lolol. Trust me mate the difference between a joiner and a have a go hero is like night n day. Hope ya get sorted. Are you available?
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You may have noticed I've asked for someone to do it, but so far no takers.......
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I have done doors before, and probably do a better job than most fitters, but it takes me 2 or 3 times as long Right now I have a lot of other things on the go and a broken ankle so I could do with some help. Cheers
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I need 7 Internal doors fitted, just the common light weight 6 panel moulded doors, I have all the doors and fittings. This is proving hard work. Only found a couple but they are not able to fit for 4-5 weeks, I'm not looking for tomorrow (although that would be great) but a bit sooner would be useful. I'm in the Reading area, anyone know a decent carpenter who could do the job for me please asap? THANK YOU.
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Many thanks for all the input. Question. Have you Mixed Dulux Endurance or Kitchen with ordinary Dulux Matt (same colour)? If so what is your opinion of the result? Many thanks.
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Lots of views here, many will suggest the mist coat soaks in and forms a good base bond for the paint. Use matt not silk paint for this, heavily diluted, opinions will vary over % dilution. PVA can/will form a surface barrier which the paint sits on top, the paint can bond to this but over the years I've dropped the PVA and simply use a mist coat. Everyone will have an opinion, and what works best for them, the mist coat works for me these days, its also easier to sand/fill when you see the mess the plasterer made after you applied the first paint (mist) coat! Thanks for this but
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Whatever paint type the next coat may specifically be, it will be "diluted" as appropriate! Final colour (as yet not 100% decided) will be a light shade, (which is why I'm after something durable and cleanable) and I'm pretty confident, seeing the results of 1 mist coat, 2 more coats will do, and it's likely both will be diluted to allow for better roller flow, slower drying and less orange peel.
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Some opinions please, the house needs work. Hall/Stairs/Landing and Living room are being decorated. There is a suggestion Hall/Stairs/Landing are heavy duty areas and could benefit from a paint along the lines of Dulux "Endurance", (there are several similar own brands). I have heard mixed reviews on this paint, both application and performance. Have you used it please and got any personal, specific experience, your comments would be much appreciated. There is more.... what about Dulux "Kitchen", this apparently is easy to clean and stain resistant which sounds good for not
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Federal Game Shok Or Remmington Yellow Jacket??
Deker replied to ludders76's topic in Rimfire, Centrefire & Shotguns
I can't actually remember ever using the Federal game Shok in .22lr. Back in the day the Rem Yellow Jacket HP (about 1500ft sec I remember) was very good in my CZ452, but so too was the CCI Velocitor, which hit harder but tended to expand less (and were often very tight to chamber). I don't use either anymore, my .22lr are sub sonic tools, if I want more I use my HMR or WMR, which in both cases, are far more efficient/accurate than HV ammo in a .22lr. People rave about Eley Subs but I've never been overly impressed with them for field work, If you can find them try a box of Magtech -
We all started somewhere but you seem all over the place, just what requirement do you have for a .308? I have a SPS Stainless in .308, it is out of the box except about 3" cut from the barrel and threaded. The stock and trigger are original, some will suggest the stock is useless, but mine delivers 1" with PRVI 150g SP and that does me just fine in the field. So, in simple terms, the rifle is fine, but there is plenty you can do to trick it up if you must. Do you have a FAC at all, if you don't it isn't the easiest thing to get at first grant, although not impossible if you can
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You don't exactly have a lot to remember here!
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Thanks everyone, it seems the Dankung 3060 tubing is the stuff, so I'm ordering some of that. During the search I found this daft thing, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bait-Thrower-Kit-Fishing-Bait-Accessories-Slinger-Carp-Bowfishing-Catapult-JB21-/262022725800?hash=item3d01c580a8 which seems to work on the same principle of the tubing running through the handle. The whole thing, and the tubing don't seem as strong as the Reddicat, but I've ordered one anyway, at that price it must be worth a try for some close work. I find the catapults rather useful as I have managed to break both shoul
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The majority tend to shoot shorter distances when lamping than in daylight. Frankly, you don't need all that much of a scope if you have a decent lamp. Those you mention are fine, but I'm a little surprised at the difference in mag you are thinking about, 3-9 is a world different to 6-24, what sort of distances do you anticipate shooting? There is a wide choice of more than capable scopes for lamping if you have £350 to spend. I would have thought the meopta meopro 4x12x50 would be fair enough.
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Which Sauer 202 do you have? Can you post a pic? As far as I'm aware if it actually has a front sight you are going to lose it regardless of type of moderator!
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My trusty, faithful Reddicat has finally given up after about 16 years....... This has been great, and the best operating and VFM catapult I have had, but I can't seem to find these anymore. Does anyone know if they are still available or if there is a modern equivalent? I can't seem to find any appropriate elastic either, if someone could steer me in that direction it would be great, it's just the elastic that's broken, the frame is fine. Many thanks.
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Ammo Disappointment And Surprise
Deker replied to shropshire dan's topic in Rimfire, Centrefire & Shotguns
Very little, if any, on PRVI prices, it may even possibly end up costing you more. Anyone who reloads should be able to develop a very accurate load, but they also tend to keep tinkering. Financial savings take time to filter through after set up costs, and are also commonly negated by a lot of test loads by many people. It will also depend just how many rounds you shoot a year if reloading becomes financially beneficial. Some enjoy reloading, but bear in mind it also takes time so factor in your labour as well. If you are getting 1/2" groups at 120 yards with PRVI, that will be abou -
Ammo Disappointment And Surprise
Deker replied to shropshire dan's topic in Rimfire, Centrefire & Shotguns
My T3 243 lives on 90g PRVI SP. It deals with fox and deer just fine. Mine stays inside 1" at 100, your 1/2" at 120 is better than I can achieve and more than adequate for field use. -
The .223 isn't harsh. As long as you can see your target/quarry clearly enough at that distance Hawke will be just fine. You don't need to spend a fortune on scopes these days, image and clarity can be remarkably good in cheaper scopes, the area they tend to fall down on is general engineering/dialling in. Hawke are OK! Some of the JSB scopes have remarkably good glass at £30-40-50-60, but lets not talk about the engineering!
