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sionnach99

teaching recall to a bull x

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7 minutes ago, sionnach99 said:

He’s 100% with stock and other dogs 

Ive always found if your that bit more assertive and stern in voice they tend to listen that bit more, they can be headstrong but if your on top of them from a young age then they will do what u want when u want! Jmo, im sure there will be other ways that will be just as effective! Atb!

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59 minutes ago, Bosun11 said:

No different than most other lurcher pups.

And like any other lurcher type, a good bull cross can be biddable and well trained...

spot on paul, all mine were no prob, infact  my 1/4 pit 3/4 grey  i had back in the 80s  was not bad on rabbits , he bring them back  and put them down yard away or so , that never bothered me  had other typ xs the same with no pit in them . they were never really like a collie x to wards you  or like Buck  he loves everybody  big daft dog, they the bullxs like bit of fuss but not over the top about, all my dogs live out side. one thing i did like about them they just get on and enjoy  the walk when out , nevthey not like these fookin herdingxs  like i got now , these prats never never never , take there eyes off you , this constant staring  at you  pisses me off big time , my next dog wont be a herding x , be beddyx with drop bull in it,   seen few over the years good dogs got normal dog temps  lol 

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37 minutes ago, Black neck said:

You must put up the blue prints 

I've got an old foreman grill that mite be useful 

A man that understands ;)

In the Garden, just basically attach live and neutral to each bollock (you can earth in the arse but that's not how electricity works, so that's just for fun) have the wire really long and plugged in. Little Wanker doesn't recall flip the switch (only for a second mind, don't want to cook his little balls do we)..

If it's a bitch repeat process but just attach to the flaps ;)

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5 minutes ago, mushroom said:

A man that understands ;)

In the Garden, just basically attach live and neutral to each bollock (you can earth in the arse but that's not how electricity works, so that's just for fun) have the wire really long and plugged in. Little Wanker doesn't recall flip the switch (only for a second mind, don't want to cook his little balls do we)..

If it's a bitch repeat process but just attach to the flaps ;)

Far better than resorting to raising your voice which can really knock the dogs confidence 

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18 hours ago, sionnach99 said:

Cheers lads he is out every day with other dogs so there is a good bond there, I suppose I can’t expect too much from a pup and just let him be for now, any one know how to post pictures on this? 

Hi pal, sounds like you are confusing having a bond with having good social skills, make yourself the centre of his world, don't be fooled into thinking it's just a puppy thing at 9 months of age, the more effort you put into him while he is young the better it will be for both him and you, to build a bond with him you need to know him inside out, get him to make eye contact with you every time you call his name, every time you feed him, brush his coat daily, physically examine the dog regularly, feel how is body is when he's in fit condition, make training feel like play to him but never overdo it and above all be gentle with him, it's the best way to get the best out of any animal, he should be ready for some light work this coming season, hope you have a great season with him, atb pal 

 

best way to teach his recall is to let him off his lead and if he looks like he wants to go do his own thing go and hide ursen from him, it will cause him a bit of stress when he realises you've gone and will come looking for ya...hide and seek pal, works every time, you'll have his attention then for keeps, hope this helps, atb and good luck wi him pal 

Edited by Countryman62
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3 hours ago, Bosun11 said:

No different than most other lurcher pups.

And like any other lurcher type, a good bull cross can be biddable and well trained...

Just as bosun said a good bull x is as eager  to please than some other crosses just take your time there's no rush he's still young good luck 

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Young dog thing mine has just past 1 year knows come 100% but sometimes will just stand there and look at me like I'm saying something totally new just keep up the training and try not to get to annoyed it will pass ...... well that's what I tell myself anyway 

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yea mine does that now at 4. Stands there thinking mmm shall i go back. Nah lets blast over the brow of this hill because there is a good chance of seeing something first. Then comes flying back after his happy.

I told him to stop once at the very second he heard some thing so he blanked me and shot off. Lost what ever is was then retraced his step to the exact spot I had told him to stop and stopped lol. Ferking smart arse :laugh:

Edited by terryd
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As most of the lads already said  keep an eye on it and dont let it get out of hand. Depending on what your going to be using it for, could turn into a problem when starting lamping, especially if it’s going to be keen on using its nose which all bull x’s I’ve had were. Nothing worse than the dog missing something then being away for ages  and not taking any notice of your recall.

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Dog training is 90% conditioned response, so like training a dog to do anything, the most important rule is to only give the command when you're in a position to enforce it. That doesn't mean you should bash the dog, but if you tell him to come, he should come at once - there should be nothing optional about it. And it's a slow, step by step process over a month or more. So to begin with, only tell him to come when he probably wants to. Then make a fuss of him when he comes. When that gets entirely predictable, tell him to come when he might not want to, but isn't particularly distracted. If you walk or run away from  him while giving the command, he'll almost certainly follow. Make a fuss of him again. Rinse and repeat until that too gets entirely predictable. At some point though, you're going to want to tell him to come when he doesn't want to - and almost certainly  - sooner or later -  you're going to see the dog say to himself 'F@@@ you, this is more interesting' and he'll deaf you out. That's when you run to him and give him a bit of a shaking by the scruff. Now you're got his attention, you put some distance between you and call him again. If you're not in the habit of bad-using your dog, he'll come immediately. Big fuss again. And so on and so forth..Eventually the dog will always come first time.

A couple of key things.

1) If you're not sure he'll come back, or if you're not close enough or in a position to get at him if he doesn't - don't give the command in the first place. Dog training is nearly all about conditioning an automatic response to a stimulus, and you can condition a dog to ignore commands just as easily  - in fact more easily - than you can condition him to obey them.

2) Never ever call the dog to you and then give him a doing for not obeying a previous command, because you're basically teaching him that coming to you is a dodgy business. The result will be one of these dogs that half comes back and then circles around out of range - usually before bu@@ering off again to do what he likes! If you're going to chastise a dog for anything at all - you must always go to the dog - even if it means running 200 yards.

3) Don't be impatient. The key to training dogs is little and often and consistency. And loss of temper (despite that we've all been there!) is ALWAYS counter-productive.

4) I'm editing in one last thing. With a young dog, it's helpful to keep training sessions and general exercise, etc, separate activities. That way both you and the dog will know what's expected of you when 'school' is in session. Of course, later, when you're confident that the dog will return, stop, wait, look back, or whatever other commands you've taught him, it's fine to practice them anytime or anywhere - in fact it's what you should do. But when the dog is still struggling with getting the hang of what you want of him, or if he still imagines that he has the option of doing what he's told or not, it's best to only give commands under controlled circumstances, away from distractions. As I said above, if you rinse and repeat often enough and consistently enough, eventually the dog will just automatically obey wherever he is because you'll have conditioned an automatic response. Then you're home and dry for the life of the dog. It's worth spending a bit of time on.

 

Edited by Retsdon
a couple of words changed here and there..
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15 hours ago, Saltmoon said:

Young dog thing mine has just past 1 year knows come 100% but sometimes will just stand there and look at me like I'm saying something totally new just keep up the training and try not to get to annoyed it will pass ...... well that's what I tell myself anyway 

next time he stand's and look's at you.dont say anything just point to him and drop your hand to point at your feet but keep eye contact.like you are staring him out.dont move your body apart from pointing and repeat that movment every 30 second's but keep staring.he will soon come to you.then praise him he will soon stop the staring at you as he cant win that game.

 

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23 minutes ago, king said:

next time he stand's and look's at you.dont say anything just point to him and drop your hand to point at your feet but keep eye contact.like you are staring him out.dont move your body apart from pointing and repeat that movment every 30 second's but keep staring.he will soon come to you.then praise him he will soon stop the staring at you as he cant win that game.

 

Then kick the b*****d

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15 hours ago, Black neck said:

Then kick the b*****d

Pete still uses his mothers method. She used to tie a pork chop around his neck so the dogs would play with him. He still does this to this day to get the dogs to come, still not working apparently.

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