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Acuspell

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Everything posted by Acuspell

  1. Only one way to find out! Keep the light dimmed right down. just enough to see through the scope by, no more.
  2. Don't forget, hard pellets will ricochet more too - be careful. .22 = Light pellet and bigger surface area than a .177. The wind effect will be GREATER. I like the deformation of a pellet on impact. i am going to try doing some ballistic tests on various pellets at 30 yards. It will be a couple of weeks, but i'll keep you posted.
  3. It isn't just the laziness aspect, but also the fact that 500gms of bipod stuck on the front of the rifle upsets the natural balance of the gun. It makes it much heavier, pushes the weight forward and makes a fast, offhand shot, more difficult. I have used bipods a lot. They have their place for precision shooting such as extreme range hunting (Yukon for Elk at 1200 yards, New Mexico for Pronghorn at 450 yards+, even in the hills for reds and sika I have taken deer at beyond 600 yards and foxes out at 300+). There are times to leave it off though. Mostly I stalked with the bipod in my rucksack
  4. If you shoot a magpie DO NOT LEAVE THE HIDE. get loaded and ready for the mob to arrive! A fallen corvid ALWAYS attracts other corvids and you can usually get a couple before they tak fright. With the ones you shoot - put them in the freezer, they make brilliant decoys. Use them OFF THEIR OWN TURF. It is a stranger in town that attracts the locals. Shoot one on the top fields, bring it down to the yard and the yard magpies will come to see it off. take one from the yard up to the top fields - same happens! Make the hide before you put the decoy out - and don't put it out if there are a
  5. But his chalk ones only work out at 1p each!
  6. Amazing how understanding what is going on can help to make things work as they should! Glad you are sorted. The Scorpion is a great rifle, but just too compact for me. Mine was making one ragged hole groups with Defiants (lead pellets, 14g, so light but not too light) at 50 yards. They need to be the large head size (there are 3 different head sizes for different barrels, the BSA barrels all prefer the 5.52, because that is the English standard bore size - some heavily choked barrels prefer the smaller ones). BUT, the barrel will need to be cleaned out for them to work correctly. The best
  7. Go to Trading Standards in your area - they can be found by googling it. They will give you the long and short of it, your rights, the sale of goods act, everything. No fee. You should not have let it run for so long though. Do you have a receipt for when you took it in? If you don't, lesson number one, NEVER leave anything anywhere without getting a receipt for it. The shop doesn't have a leg to stand on: Sale of Goods Act Professional negligence or even criminal damage (perfectly good item damaged by their actions.)
  8. Soft lead wrecked a BSA barrel from the same barrel maker that makes those used for .22LR rifles? I doubt it very much. FORCING a second pellet in, might. If anything doesn't feel the same as it should - STOP. Examine what might be occuring, but for pete's sake, don't carry on and just hope it will work itself right again. Double loading, you should be able to feel the difference in resistence, that should be enough to rouse your suspicions.
  9. Correct. You already worked the bolt to cock the hammer when you pulled it back to get the magazine out. When you slide the magazine back into its resting place the first pellet is there, staring at the probe waiting to be pushed home. As you close the bolt the pellet is breeched. When you change magazines you are going through the exact same procedure as between shots, the only difference is the refilling the holes bit....think about it, you fired the shot, pulled the trigger back, then pulled the bolt back to allow the magazine to come out...all you have to do to complete the cycle is push
  10. RCBS reloading dies, set of 3, full length sizing, neck sizing and bullet seating dies. Spare primer pricker. Mint in box. PLUS a load of virgin Lapua brass in 7x64 still in the box and some deprimed, neck sized 7x64 brass too, again in boxes with plastic cartridge holders. I also have a load of 7mm Rem mag brass, in boxes with cartridge racks. £50 the lot. The cases are about £1 each, new.
  11. YOU DON'T NEED TO GET RID OF THE MAGAZINE AT ALL. Turn the mag upside down in your fingers, with it loaded. Underneath you will see a little "tab" that lies flat with the bottom of the side plate of the mag and drum. With your thumb nail, just press this tab in and se if the magazine drum unwinds one turn. Each time you press the tab the magazine drum should go one pellet chamber. If that works happily, then there is NOTHING wrong with the magazine. Now, when you load the magazine into the rifle the first pellet should be in line with the probe. Remember to close the magazine holding l
  12. .22 at 40ft-lbs I would stll say a Rapid, simply because of the ease of fixing it and the reliability of them - very well built, simple system that has now been proven over about 25 years. There are plenty like this being used in South Africa. Simple, rugged,accurate and good shot count (around 35 at that power from a 400cc)
  13. Another 20 calibre convert! You will grow to love the calibre, it is the best calibre for hunting, I don't care what all the other pundits say, when you consider the blend of requiremnets, the 20 calibre has something of them all. With the compromises from one end of the calibre spectrum to the other, the 20 calibre has the best blend of those comromises,no question. I will not use anything else now, except my .22 SLR98, but have found that 14gr Defiants go very well indedd thrugh her barrel, so she is very close to the 20 for aiming holds. 20 calibre AND self contained.The best of bo
  14. OK so where are you - which sub continent? WHY 1000fps? You would do well to go .22 at that kind of velocity. Have a look at theTheoben Rapid - if you are out in the boonies, the Rapid is very rugged, very reliable, very simple and so easy to fix. You would get close to 1000fps but to get a decent number of shots you would need a 400cc bottle at least (1000fps is 40ft-lbs or more). I have a Rapid 20 and the best velocity for that is around the 875 mark. Once you go over the accuracy falls off. Accuracy is more important than power. 24ft-lbs in 20 cal is plenty.
  15. I think he means the power it is running at. It also depends on which scope you have. Does it have mildots or other aiming off marks? Or is it just a plain duplex reticule? Why does this matter what range youzero at? Because range judgement at longer distances becomes critical. The difference between 40 yards and 43 yards can be as much as 1 inch drop if zeroed just past 25 yards. I use 30 yards, because that gives me the the best approximation but I have to limit my range to 40 yards, for exactly the reason stated. My SLR is running at 11.4ft-lbs with Accupell in .22. I only have a duplex ret
  16. Jasper, I had my AA410 regulated by Tench. He can supply a regulator but there is more to getting the best out of it. The valves and spring tension are altered and tuned to the regulator setting. I took him my rifle and he did the regulator fitting, but also did some work on the valving and hammer spring tension to make sure everything was harmonised. he does set the rifle up to ensure it is legal too - uses heavy pellets to check it doesn't go over afterwards. From the sweet spot on the standard AA410 of around 60 shots, I can now fill to 210 bar and get consistent shots from number 1 rig
  17. Remember, when you zero at 30 yards, shots around 15-20 will be the best part of an inch HIGH and you have to hold under a tad. CLOSE shots at 10 yards 9thereabouts) will be spot on (check where yours actually is - 10? 12?) Once you have your 30 yard zero, you then need to learn where the pellet is going at other distances. Don't rely on calculations, do it for real in the field with bits of paper! You get much better practise, but also you get to see what the hold over or hold under actually looks like. Change the zoom magnification on your scope (if adjustable magnification) and you have
  18. If you phone Theoben in the morning with the serial number (turn her upside down, usually hand engraved on the action beside the cocking linkage - early ones were done by either a hand dremmel, or by a punch making the numbers up out of a load of little dots! Give them the number and they are usually very good and will look it up for you. At £200 there is enough in it to send it in to someone good for a service and seals, they will ensure it runs at around 11.2 - 11.4 ft-lbs. Temperature will affect the power. In cold weather mine (above) goes down to about 10.9ft-lbs, as the weather warms
  19. You can't use anything. If any part of the gun touches anything firm, the shot will go wild. YOU have to hold it steady. Learn to shoot from the sitting position, with your arms only in contact with SOFT TISSUE, not bones (so no elbow on knee, which is bone to bone!) The proper sittin gposition is as steady as shooting prone and it will be good for two reasons: 1. You learn to shoot better from a position that keeps the rifle above long grass (try shooting from prone in long grass!) .2. You get zeroed from a position that you will use - so it is a more meaningful zero. Once you have it o
  20. I have never seen one under £250. If he is willing to let you have it for £200, I would say, provided it looks as though it has been looked after, it would be a great buy. Signs to look for - bluing having been worn off the front of the barrel (Theoben silencer? Tapered back end, flat front end and blued like the rest of the metalwork, beautifully). Like this: This is the Taunus - built in a Fenman stock because I wanted the ambidextrous stock - 10" barrel, with Theoben standard moderator. Other signs to look for - the plug screw at the back. Is it sharp still, or have the edges been ro
  21. What age Theoben. Is it an HE system or the older, low pressure Ram? I have several and love them, high quality rifles. The Fenman with the short barrel (8") is better in .22 than .177. For the smaller calibre they are better with the slightly longer barrel (10"). These rifles will easily produce a 1/2" group at 40 yards, once used properly. They are different to other ifles and some people either can't, or more correctly, won't learn how to shoot them. Loose hold and let it recoil and it will do the rest. Try and hold it tight and it will fly all over the place and not group. Ease
  22. Yes I started with air rifles, and after 30 years of professional hunting (in NZ in the mid to late 70s on deer and goats and Tahr) and deer in the uk (450 a year at one point) I have gone the other way and I hardly ever pick up the big rifle or shotgun now, and PREFER to use the air rifle. For me it is just so simple and satisfying with no pressure and no expectation. In fact I have just bought myself a NEW air rifle, so shall be selling a few of my air rifle collection and rationalising myself. I'll keep one rifle, one shotgun and two air rifles, a PCP and a break barrel.
  23. HW80 for £150? Tell me where please!
  24. If you are looking used, then you have missed a trick. You haven't included the iconic, been doing it for 25 years and built to withstand 50ft-lbs - the Theobon Rapid7. A brilliant rifle and they are affordable. So easily worked on and built like a tractor. Simply, reliable and accurate enough for my friend to use 177 pellets as targets at 50 yards! He is shooting tennis balls at 150 yards (20 cal running at 26ft-lbs, but the same rifle, just tuned). The handling isn't as nice as the modern rifles, I'll grant you but that can be sorted with a stock. Using a 400cc bottle you would get 250 shots
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