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matt_hooks

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Everything posted by matt_hooks

  1. matt_hooks
    If the laser is on a different line from the sightline of the scope, then if the two points intersect at your zero they will diverge as distance decreases/increases. Which way it happens depends on where the laser is mounted. If the laser is below the scope, then as the target is closer, the laser will strike below the crosshairs. If it is above, the opposite applies. To use it as a guide to range, you need to mount your laser, with a decent vertical distance between the laser and the scope. Then you need to set out targets at known ranges, and note how far up/down the laser dot moves as y
  2. matt_hooks
    I've not heard of a change of legislation that would mean that, have they quoted the specific legislation behind the new requirement?
  3. matt_hooks
    I wasn't being nasty. It was a serious question! I can't find a reference to a Mauser with that prefix, but can't find a reference to "Mouser" and guns, so I'm a little confused. Any other markings on the rifle?
  4. matt_hooks
    Plus side, cheap beer. Downside, Wetherspoons!?!? Bleurgh! As for the pigeon, teach that cat to bring them down in YOUR garden. Can't believe her next door wouldn't let you put the poor thing out of it's misery! Still, she always did moan about shooting in the garden so I guess it's no surprise.
  5. matt_hooks
    Are you certain it's Mouser, not Mauser?
  6. matt_hooks
    I've got one of those, a great bit of kit. Just a warning though, when you go to unscrew it to put the batteries in, make sure you don't hold it by the front bell, as that then unscrews and breaks the wires to the UV LED's, so you end up with just a torch. Hold the mid section and the base! A great little torch for the price. Maybe not up there with the £100 odd torches, but still plenty of light and throw for airgun lamping!
  7. matt_hooks
    Depends on the design, how good your welds are and how much weight you're willing to put up with. A smaller box section can be used with gussets to improve rigidity at the corners. Round tube will give you more rigidity for weight, just takes a bit more care with the welding. A ladder front with about 12 inches between steps. A platform welded at about 115 degrees from the ladder. Fix seat to platform, weld on are support and you're sorted! Lean to's are ok, but remember they will need removing from the trees when you're not using them, otherwise you could cause all sorts of growi
  8. matt_hooks
    I seem to remember reading that airguns are not an acceptable hunting weapon in NI.
  9. matt_hooks
    LED lenser evry day of the week! I have the M7 and P17, both give extremely good beam strength and long battery life. The M series have different modes, full power, reduced power, flash, SOS and strobe. The P series has low and full power. The P17 is a big beast, same size and similar weight to the equivalent mag light. The M7 is much lighter, shorter and easier to carry, with a similar light output and locking focus. The P I find focuses slightly better, but they will both give you far more light than you really need.
  10. matt_hooks
    This info taken from the BASC guidance notes on filling in the application forms. This is what I sent in, and have not had the aplication returned for not having enough photo's.
  11. matt_hooks
    Lost the link. Could someone check and see if the SCATS link is still on his link section? I might have had a word with them, pointing out how crap his site is, and how he's not very professional, and has stolen images.
  12. matt_hooks
    Are you looking for one that's tree rested, or a standalone type thing? 1 inch box will be more than enough, though it might make them heavy and unwieldy if you're thinking of moving them at any point.
  13. matt_hooks
    There's a good Darwin Award nominee in waiting right there. Surely can't be long before someone stupid enough to start bashing a .50 cal round on a metal pin kills himself in some new and interesting manner!
  14. matt_hooks
    Sooo, after my thread which got deleted, my own fault for not reading the rules, I need to find a gunsmith ,around the Newbury area preferably to save postage costs, who is capable of working on an old PCP, an Axsor Gemini, and a first generation Theoben Scirocco, to bring them both back up to proper hunting power. Does anyone know of any around this area who they would recommend? If not, would any of the gunsmiths on here like to PM me and let me know roughly what I'd be expecting to lay out, to do whatever is necessary to bring them up to sensible hunting levels?
  15. matt_hooks
    Damn it, for once I have to agree with Coldweld! For you to use it unsupervised you will need to have it on your ticket. Also if you are to share storage you will need all the weapons on your ticket as well as your fathers. Be careful of the "estate condition". Where it says "land owner" that covers someone who holds shooting rights over the land, so not just the land owner, but a gamekeeper or a hunter who holds rights over the land. What it also states is that the use must be SUPERVISED. I.E. the holder must be within sight and sound of you while you're using the rifle. They can't just h
  16. matt_hooks
    Reckon I'd get pretty bored with loading the ammo belts in no time, spend more time loading them than shooting them! Would like to have a go on one though, just to say I have!
  17. matt_hooks
    I wouldn't use corrosion remover on a blued gun barrel. A little WD40 and wire wool (or a scrunched up bit of aluminium foil) to remove any spots, and a light oiling with gun oil or 3 in 1 is all that's required. Corrosion remover, if left on the barrel, may well damage the bluing! To prevent rust, I use a vapour phase corrosion inhibitor. You buy it in a sachet from your gunsmith, sling it in the cabinet and the vapours find the steel in guns and attach to it, preventing rust from forming. Fantastic stuff, I used it to protect the steel in bridges on the M6 and it works a treat!
  18. matt_hooks
    Mine's been nearly 4 months now! Grrrrr!
  19. matt_hooks
    Aye, what he said!
  20. matt_hooks
    Mate, for an air rifle, they're perfect, and a reasonable price so you can afford to spend a bit more on other shiny bits!
  21. matt_hooks
    Aye, a decent IR illuminator will extend the useful range greatly. Shame they don't seem to be making an appearance in the UK!
  22. matt_hooks
    My FEO rang me today, to say that HQ had sent my application back to him, as the person I've put down as mentor for the .243 has been deemed unsuitable to act as mentor. Basically this is a friend, who has been involved in hunting and firearms all his life, and until a couple of years ago held a firearms certificate with several different calibres on it. Now a couple of years ago he decided he couldn't keep up the shooting as he was starting a new job (airline pilot) and so wouldn't have time, so he flogged off his rifles and let his FAC lapse. He had held it for over 25 years! So now,
  23. matt_hooks
    For an air rifle, on bunnies and other pests, at normal air rifle ranges, it's perfectly adequate, though the mag is perhaps a little on the high side for unsupported shooting. They're not the best in the world, but they work, and you don't need £1000's worth of scope on an air rifle. Some people have had problems with parts shaking loose when using them on some of the lighter, more "bouncy" springers, but not a huge amount.
  24. matt_hooks
    A second hand springer with a cheap telescopic sight would work fine on that budget. The Weirach's seem popular and I've always enjoyed shooting them. I'd go for .22, but others will tell you to go for .177. Horses for courses that one. Have a look through the "for sale" section at the bottom of the forum home page, there's often stuf there.
  25. matt_hooks
    There are a few vids on youtube of it. Granted most are sales video's, but it looks reasonable, if not a wee bit steep price wise!
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