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john b

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Everything posted by john b

  1. One of these ? http://www.wasp-away.co.uk/?gclid=CJzSvNDq9pICFQeIMAodEhqWCA
  2. Well I can't understand why there haven't been any posts on this Great article Woodga - clear simple instructions. I have to say I'm impressed with banding spring lock. Good idea that.
  3. For those of you that have missed this in the 'design' section http://www.thehuntinglife.com/forums/index...mp;#entry504174
  4. About 2 to 3 hours I think working from scratch, but it's had to tell as I kept getting interrupted. Glad you like it because it's one of the plans in the book. Just making sure I've written it all down properly before I publish. Another shot of the construction process and the see-saw lock
  5. Just to add a bit more - Matt the Rat asked me to make him one some time ago and I have been dragging my feet a bit. Anyway today I decided to kill two birds with one stone and I worked through my own plans and made him this. I'm glad I did too - only a couple of errors but big enough to be a pain in the arse.
  6. When I talked to them in March, the manufacturers are in discussions with the Game and Wildlife Conservation Trust for distribution in the UK.
  7. OK - lets keep this under control eh ? It doesn't matter whether this is a genuine business venture that has got lucky early or a climb down from a badly though through idea. Can we put a hold on the unsubstantiated accusations. If anyone has paid and had their cheque cashed and feel that they are not getting a response from Tyke then feel free to have a go.
  8. Have a look at the previous discussion on this here Also this is pretty good and it's free http://www.thehuntinglife.com/forums/index...showtopic=33388 Or DS might have meant this one which I sell http://www.thehuntinglife.com/forums/index...ic=18348&hl= My own book is still in testing phase but won't be long
  9. http://www.thehuntinglife.com/forums/index...1&hl=seesaw And just to prove the post have a look at this post from SINDASOX
  10. Thanks for the acknowledgement Bobs but I think that is overstating my contribution by quite a bit I had some ideas in this area and but nothing in mind as well made and as thought through as this. For the public record this should go down as Bobnets Idea. Very well done. As for the overall design it looks very good. I notice the catch doors are made as a cut-out than smaller than usual but I can't decide if this is a problem or an improvement. Obviously you've got to get to magpie to go into this smaller gap; it certainly looks physically big enough and 'funnels' work so it shou
  11. yes that's the principle, but they have to get down there to see it first. Absolutely agree. The ones you're on about are a ground entry trap by the look of them.
  12. Stubby I've found that it's better to have the pistol a little way away from the trap. I started off getting it as close as possible and I swear the pellets bounced off. Few feet away and much better.
  13. Hi Steve You had me worried then - didn't know what you were going to ask. Anyway at the moment I'm planning a cover price of about £15 plus p&p of £2 to £3. I can't be sure of the weight until it's printed. Once I've got a couple of proof copies I'm going to test that price with a few people - see what they think. Seeing as the GCT sell a Larsen plan for a fiver I think it's about right. I might also try and work out some sort of discount for THL members who've make a noticeable contribution tot the site (I mean content not donations). As for the mirror trap I've no e
  14. Have a look here http://www.thehuntinglife.com/forums/index...showtopic=12258
  15. The Larsen trap is mainly a trap for magpies, although it also has been known to catch crows, jays and other corvids. It is one of the few traps where it is legal to use a live bird to catch others - not as 'bait' in the usual sense but by using the natural instinct of these birds to guard their territory. Dominant birds, or new birds entering an area, will approach the call bird and in the course of the encounter will be caught. The trap itself is divided into two halves; one forming the permanent cage for the 'call bird' and the other half divided into two catch chambers. Each ca
  16. Just to let you all know I've moved most of the pinned topics off into the 'Snare & Trap Design' section. That's where they really belong and there were getting to many that we only had 3 or 4 post visible at the bottom of the first page.
  17. That does sound interesting - I'll have a listen in a bit. I make EDT 5 hours behind UK BST so if we wanted to listen in live to future episodes to be able to phone in that would be around 12.30 am on Monday mornings ? Thanks for posting this
  18. operator error Good job with the trap though BIGBULLS
  19. As BOBNETS is making such a cracking job of his pigeon trap in his thread I thought it worth saying these are still available.
  20. Made a good job of that mate. I do believe that the ones with a bit more height work better than the ones that are just the height of the bobwires. Glad you're happy with the bobs Still have some available is anyone wants any. Please see this thread
  21. well done Stubby. Good to see a thorough job. Did you find out where they were getting in ?
  22. LL Bloody well done on that trap mate. You've made an excellent job of making that right down to the trigger.
  23. OK - well if it was me I would take it down off the bales and put it right up against the side of the stack. It looks like a central call bird compartment so put one of the ends of that against the bales. This minimises the contact points between birds inside and out encouraging them to go into the catch chambers. When I use mine I put the call compartment up against a fence or similar and preferably under a tree. This is is mine at the moment - you can see the call compartment is obscured on almost all sides. The birds perch on the fence, then have a hop about, then back up and so on unti
  24. Rolfe - do you mean like this ? Just to protect the edge from being clawed up ? I've not seen one like that before
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