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danebrewer10

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Everything posted by danebrewer10

  1. danebrewer10
    wow, I'll remember that one if I ever need it!
  2. danebrewer10
    I did it a while ago with the stock on my air rifle, I used Nitromoors, a chemical paint stripper, just follow the instructions on the can and you'll do fine, you may want some fine grade sand paper & wire wool to get the laquer out of the crevices, and a stiff nylon brush for the quequering- it's especially hard to get it out of here, then I'd byt a bottle of sealer, stain and stock oil from CCL, I just used straight boiled linseed oil, I was younger and I didn't have anything else, but it worked pretty well. no pic as yet, but I could see and post one up.
  3. danebrewer10
    I really don't think a shorter barrel will hurt at all, some people have them as short as 12"! the shorter barrel will make it much more manouverable, I'd go for 14" myself, as Mike says, I'm not surprised that the round slows down in a longer barrel, it's not as if it really has that much powder behind it!, you also won't affect the accuracy much either.
  4. danebrewer10
    I'm not sure what you mean here, but if you shoot several rounds after eachother the barrel heats up and the POI will shift, and/aswell as the groups will open up, you don't stata what calibre it is nor how many rounds you put through it before if "loses" accuracy, supply these and people will have an easier time understanding and helping.
  5. danebrewer10
    I've always known it as a side saddle, it will be banned from UK import because it is a "gun part" I've heard of this before, even difficulty importing things like that that do not have any load bearing or even any way of making a gun or adapting it, it's just the screwy import/export laws, Midway UK are great for shopping about, I looked at getting a recoil pad off of them, but postage is INSANE! I'd just find a local shop who deals with them or the company and ask them to order it in, if you haven't already got it, you might wantt to try and check out anuone who specialises in supplying good
  6. danebrewer10
    no, fair enough, good point about getting a round stuck in the chamber though, I hadn't though about that, for the record, whenever I have shot misfired RF rounds, they've always been on paper, this is why these forums exist! ATB
  7. danebrewer10
    might I ask why? but considering how they make the rounds, by pouring the priming compound into the case and spinning it, plus they make so many of them it's hardly surprising that one or two misfire, if the round is in a safe and good condition firearm chambered for the cartridge, how would it be unsafe to attempt to fire the same cartridge again? especially considering the low pressures of a rimfire? if it's only a priming issue then surely there wouldn't be a safety problem. on the few occasions I have had a misfire both with .22LR and with .17 HMR I have re-fired the round without incident
  8. danebrewer10
    if it dosen't go off within the 30 seconds or so, I just re cock the rifle, (if it's a rimfire then you can just rotate the round round so a new piece of the rim is showing as it may be that the priming compound didn't get in to the rim at that point) and fire again, so long as the boom is contained within the rifle I see no issue, if it then dosen't fire then dispose of it safely, I'm not sure how effective soaking it in oil would be as if the rounds are crimped at the neck and the primers have a sealer on them to prevent moisture ingress, I'm not sure how the oil would get in there either, p
  9. danebrewer10
    mmngh, I know there's a lot of people using clay carts on pigoens and I know they work, but IMO for what it's worth, I thing you should be thinking a bit bigger 6s is what I use for everything, try Eley HB pigeon I think they're called quite cheap last time I looked, 30gm 6.5 shot, good dense pattern plus a well built cartridge (coming from eley)....
  10. danebrewer10
    nice one!
  11. danebrewer10
    fair'nough I guess it's that rabbits are always going to be there so if you lose the extra 15 mins 1/2 hr at the end of the day before you either have to go home or switch on the lamp, it's not the end of the world, but perhaps if you're stalking and you need to make the cull number up or you are presented with a "once in a lifetime" trophy shot, then you're not going to want to miss it!
  12. danebrewer10
    I don't see how, if you take the clarity and so the resolution out of the equation compare both scopes at the same distance, say 80m, an average rabbit engagement distance with an HMR? You are still left with low light transmission in a cheaper scope that will give up the ghost sooner and be less bright than a better quality scope, and especially with rabbits, being quite small, dark, often against a dark background (unless it's snowing!) trying to accurately place a shot into the head, so every extra bit of light transmitted surely is a good thing? (especially since the gulf would widen the g
  13. danebrewer10
    just a question, sorry if it's a thread hijack, but how come people put cheap optics on a rimmy "because it's only a rimfire" and then go and spend a grand on a scope for a CF rifle, surely, the nature of the beast is the same, low light means clear, bright optics are mandatory? I shoot my rimmy well into the last knockings and am thankful for the S&B 6x42 (Hungarian)optics as they do make a huge difference, compare that next to my 3-9x56 IR Walther I have on the air gun for nocking squirrels, ferals and the like over, and the difference, really is night and day!
  14. danebrewer10
    having less recoil has 'owt to do with accuracy, it's a shotgun, not a rifle, the autos are very good at reducing the recoil for a faster follow up shot, but properly handled an O/U is every bit as accurate or well shot as an auto, take a look at the benellis if you can find a second hand one, very good simple actions, lighter than gas operated guns plus there's much less to clean. having said that, a lot in shooting is confidence, so if you're confident in your equipment thenn you stand a much better chance of perfoming!
  15. danebrewer10
    another thing, when you leave the gun in the cabinet take the mod off else the corrosive gases will seep back down the barrel and corrode it, I was talking to the guy in the gun shop the other day and he said that someone came in to tade in a rifle that had only fired 5 or 6 shots over as many years and the barrel was corroded to hell because of this very reason (plus he never cleaned it) having said that some people never clean their .22s and don't suffer any problems....
  16. danebrewer10
    noooo! FAC only, not only will you not be able to buy them on a SGC, you'll have to prove you have a valid use for them. I think they'd be legal for quarry use, but they're not that accurate, sabot slug through a rifled barrel hold about 2"-5" at 100m, solid slug through a smoothbore hold about 4" at 50m so not exactly stellar. having said that I don't think they'd accept live quarry as a valid reason unless it was a 12bore and the quarry being driven boar.
  17. danebrewer10
    grab the hoover whilst she's not in, then she'll never know AHAHAHAHAHAHA!
  18. danebrewer10
    I though Berdan primed brass had the primer fixed in place as you say, but there are two flash holes instead of the usual one found on boxer primed brass?
  19. danebrewer10
    oh right, I was trying to stay away from the solvent route as I just wanted to be able to wash the mod off in water and let it dry....., the other thing I found works ok is Flash all purpose cleaner I just take the mod apart and dump it all in a bucket with the cleaner solution and leave it for 15 mins 1/2 hr or so then clean with a bottle brush and toothbrush, I just end up with a fine residue that seems glued on it dosen't rub off, or affect how it goes back together I was just wonderin' if anyone had any other methods that's a fairly involved cleaning regime you've got there!
  20. danebrewer10
    really? I thought you just had a decapping and resizing die all in one..... but then I'm not a reloader....
  21. danebrewer10
    no, the fleur de lys is only a steel shot proof symbol, the higher 1370 BAR proof is the magnum steel shot proof if you have that then you may fire the higher pressured magnum loads, (just make sure they are the right length!
  22. danebrewer10
    I think it's right barrel- front trigger, left barrel left trigger, or at least that's what mine does, (hence right and left) in answer as others have said, usually bottom first then top with the barrel selector to the left, I have the top go first as with the beretta, it does tend to want to shut up a bit, so having top go first gives me much more room to reload and get my pinkies in there if I only fire one shot.
  23. danebrewer10
    the CZs are fine rifles but the triggers are JUNK! Timney make an aftermarket drop in unit which will make a j=huge difference, Sako and Anschutz have the best triggers though my anne has a miniscule ammount of creep, it creeps and then it stops, I know that a couple of extra ounces will slip the shot, the CZ on the other hand, it's a bit of a lottery, quite mushy, on the plus side of the CZ they are a lot cheaper! the annies do seem to have gon up in price recently though the Wheirauch HW60? looks good value if you can put up with the hogs back stock it depends what you want it for, I really
  24. danebrewer10
    not sure which rifle you're talking about, is it a Howa? Hogue do an overmoulded stock for that one.... alledgedly the forend is a bit flexible if you hang a mod off the end.....
  25. danebrewer10
    oh right, I always thought muzzle breaks funneled the blast backwards to mitigate the force of the recoil of the gun
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