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cyclonebri1

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Everything posted by cyclonebri1

  1. cyclonebri1
    Well done, now, just proove you are not the knob that they tried to proove you where earlier. This is serious, make a cock up prior to FAC and you may just get away with it, do it after and................................. bye bye :toast: :toast:
  2. cyclonebri1
    I've got 3 rifles, all in s/s and with laminated stocks, just 2 pretty to knock about though. My Ruger with Nylon stock in brushed stainless is the 1 I use for the rough stuff. I not trying to point you towards ruger but another example is I "loaned" my .22 ruger balistic N stock s/s barreled gun to a farmer of mine, he bought it off me eventually. Both his sons learnt to shoot with it and it gets ragged around in the tractor cab. It's still presentable and of course rust free 25 years later. Truth is any manufacturers gun will do the job, get what ever standard of gun takes your
  3. cyclonebri1
    No, I wouldn't do it either, not intentionally that is, :icon_redface: , The safe answer has to be to dump the 1/2 doz 3" shells I have and get a few 2 3/4's. Does anyone's local dealer keep split boxes of say BB and AAA?, don't want to spend £25 a box when I only want 3 or so. Why is all the good stuff like those in the link only ever available in the states :whistling: Just checked the barrel markings on the O/U; have 78.5 with a star over stamped in the area of the chamber of each barrel 1400gmos 1200Kp/cm and finally 12-70 I guess the last bit confirms it as a
  4. cyclonebri1
    No, they are classed as vermin
  5. cyclonebri1
    I was looking at this on a few yankee sites the other day and of course the resounding answer is NO But of course many have and have had no issues, luckily, and it is a very simple mistake to make if you have guns chambered for both lengths. But over here we have 3" cartridges that have a shortened out case, ie the crimp over is less, making them equivalent to a 2 3/4" shell when spent. So what's the feeling about these in a 2 3/42 gun?, or are the chamber pressures still likely to be an issue. The route of this is that I always have a handfull of BB and AAA shells in 3"
  6. cyclonebri1
    Just bought old old but beautiful conditioned Laurona 12g Had 1 of these many years ago and sold it with a full set of choke tubes. This 1 is fixed choke in 1 barrel and selectable in the other. They are the knurled finger tightened type. I needs the option to change, so does anyone know if they are interchangeable with ant other manufacturers "external" choke tubes???????????????? A quick google suggests they are the same as American Arms, but that's not helping an awful lot, :huh:
  7. cyclonebri1
    I totally agree, the rear bush is simply a steady or a guide or to stop crap getting into the void twixt mod and barrel, looks like the front end was hit by the bullet to me
  8. cyclonebri1
    Doesn't matter who writes/prints it, truth is folks read it and accept it. We all need to accept that. 2nd point is; They have a valid point, why the hell would anyone want a rifle that looks like an assualt weapon for any other reason than a toy, or some sick obsession. Don't get me wrong, I had a heckler and kock mp5 rep for my 1st .22, then a 10/22, bloody great fun, but that's all they where, fun. I didn't need them, the considered action of a bolt action is much better, even if you can't empty a 25 x banana clip in 10seconds. Get real guys, they have a valid point and buy
  9. cyclonebri1
    We drove accross most rural Lincolnshire and back yesterday, there were bloody millions of them on the fields.
  10. cyclonebri1
    Yeah, the ase was 200mm long with 100mm added to barrel, the P8 was 300 with the same addition, they both weighed very similar so the P8 with the centre weight further back felt lighter. Regarding the clearance, if it was a little greater and concentric I'd leave it, but as it is almost touching, I expect it to rattle the barrel on recoil, I should shoot it to try I know. Cheers. Edited to say I have done this today and it's made a cracking job, tightens down with a little resistance and can still be flexed if pushed hard to 1 side. It's a no lose situation anyway as the rubbe
  11. cyclonebri1
    Nice photo, thanks. Ok, the bush is approx half a mm bigger than the barrel, a little bigger than yours in the pic. Called at another rfd today, (my mates on some sort of shopping spree), they were wildcat agents too), Derek Lee in Lincs. They said 1mm all the way round. So, there's certainly some contradiction between the agents and the manufacturer and common sense I feel? Stalker, I'm going to go ahead with the o ring idea, the bush is a litle larger than the fit shown in your pic, but the o ring will effectively seal it to the barrel and the barrel being s/s there should be no coro
  12. cyclonebri1
    No pic sorry, but the clearance is about 0.5mm, which would be .25mm all round but it doesn't hold centre and can be flexed quite easily with finger pressure. Wildcats advice id to have it so that a piece of paper can be slid between mod and barrel, great if the thing was absolutely concentric. I had a look round yesterday and I have a router bit that I can cut a groove in the bush with then go with the o ring idea. Any issues and it's a new bush. Incidentally WC also state the bush is simply to stop a knock on the mod damaging the threads by twisting. What they don't say, but I t
  13. cyclonebri1
    Without reading everything; A high mag scope is brilliant fun on a .22, if you get any amount of rabbits the challenge soon becomes tagging them bang on . also allows the bullet strike to be seen clearly which adds interest. Air rifle scopes take a heavier recoil beating than a .22 gives, at least the springers and gas ram jobbies do, so I wouldn't worry about too much about your choice being classed as an air rifle scope. Get 1 with finger adjustable turrets and changeable elevation turret dials, some can be had blank and marked for your combo, great fun to dial in shots and shoot
  14. cyclonebri1
    Bought a new Predator 8 for my taper barreled .223 over the break. Went out looking for 2nd hand but got a good offer on the wildcat so went with that. Right the rear bush. I expected to moddy to come with a pilot drilled or undersized bush, or to read from many others experiences the gunshop would "size" and fit the bush. They hadn't got a bush that was undersize and even if they had, they didn't have shop facilities to machine it. OK that's dam annoying but at the price paid I still went ahead. Now having had a quick google found a world of difference in opinion as to whether to
  15. cyclonebri1
    I had to laugh at this. I'm an old git, but none too stupid. When we had this as kids about 45 years ago we simply sharpened the firing pin. Week spring? yeah quite likely, dull pin? equally as likely. PS I know they aren't supposed to be razor sharp for the pedantic few out thare
  16. cyclonebri1
    I knew something good came out of 1066
  17. cyclonebri1
    Fitted to stop the cases hitting the rotor I'd guess. The whole thing looks dodgy to me, I thought it was normal to have the gun restrained to avoid actually shooting out the rotor
  18. cyclonebri1
    don't worry John getting gunsmith to cut it and screw cut it for £ i had my cz452 bolt action,nickel,synthetic cut down and screw cut this year £40 If it's a pissing contest I had a stainless centre fire barrel done correctly last week, for £25, after about 3 quoyes of £70 to £75. To add to the initial argument, semi auto .22s are for having fun, great to stick a 25 or even 50 round banana clip on, but for serious bunny bashing a good bolt action every time. I also wouldn't waste too much on a moderator for a rimfire, they don't need anything special and the results will be
  19. cyclonebri1
    That's the bit I was about to post, if you did actually chase them out of the house and got to the gun in time to pepper there arses or blow there tyres, guess would'd be in the deeper shite?? It's a situation not many will ever find themselves in, luckily, and you simply would not have time to get to the gun unless it was being kept illegally. I guess the rattle of a deactivated pump action being cycled, the most synister song to here through a door would deter most. I also know a gut who sleeps with a loaded 12g by his bed, he has a few acres and a lake, shoots comorants at dawn.
  20. cyclonebri1
    2 bits of advice. If you want a tool for shooting rabbits rather than entertaining yourself or you mates, stick with the bolt action. It will be the hardest worked tool in the box, stainless with synthetic stock will stand up best, but at a premium as they are more desirable. I've had a ruger 10/22 a cz bolt action and am now on my 2nd ruger 77/22 best by far but expensive. On a budget I'd be looking at an older ruger 77/22 in s/s with the darkgreen nylon semi skelly stock, last forever. A farmer whose land I shoot on bought 1 of these for his 3 sons to leanto shoot with,
  21. cyclonebri1
    I had a ruger 10/22 semi auto 22 and a ruger 77/22 bolt action at the same time, The b/a was producing groups of 1/2 the size of the semi at 80yds, the max I rate it at. Both those guns went about 10 years ago but I bought a brand spanking new ruger 77/22 with heavey target grey barrel and lam stock, it shoots the pants off both of those plus the Brno I had in between. Range for .22 as I said, any bunny at 80yds is dead meat given calm conditions and a steady rest, but it comes into it's own when you are shooting off hand ay say 40 yds, that's perfect 22 country. Maximum, the longest
  22. cyclonebri1
    for me ,22 then .17hmr then .223 That's what I would by, infact I did. Like others, the 22 rimmy would be the last to go. In my list I'd put the 12g after the .22
  23. cyclonebri1
    H'mmm I'm just down the road from you, PM for details, but I do have a good few years with firearms and shotguns, I'm getting on abit so not so able today so I won't run away with your shooting, and to be honest as a centrefire owner I'm no mentor, I use mine rarely. But any advice with rimfires, .22 or hmr, then give me a call, on phone or face to face no issue. If I can help I will, ps I already have enough shooting of my own. I only ever wanted a rifle, but like you I realised a year on a shotgun cert would be money well spent, it was. That was 40 years ago. The reasoning holds
  24. cyclonebri1
    I'd go with Pachmyer, excuse spelling if I'm wrong
  25. cyclonebri1
    :thumbs: :yes: :yes: Thanks you 2, just called in their to see him, someone had told me they used a guy from Somercotes, didn't realise that he "lived" over the shop. Yes he is relatively expensive, £75 as oposed to the £30 I paid 4 years ago. If there are anymore options before I take the barrel to him I'd appreciate them Oh, while I'm on, I do recall that the barrel has to be/should be re proofed before selling on. Can someone give me the full sp on this?
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