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sandymere

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Everything posted by sandymere

  1. sandymere
    Looks a nice sort
  2. sandymere
    Patience and slowly increase, as jt75o says, start with say a scaffold plank which is about a foot then increase by a couple of inches a day, cover the bottom gap to discourage crawling, make a game of it ie fuss and jump with it the first few days, till its to high for you and it will come together. Again take time, you can spare a few weeks with such a youngster, don't get frustrated/annoyed the dog will get nervy of the jump. Try to end on success so if it increases a couple of inches stop and call it a day don't keep going until failure as failure teaches failure . Lastly don't over do it
  3. sandymere
    Day time jumping is nec but I don't teach lamping dogs to jump, where I work it's mainly devon banks with wire either side so not very jumpable, the bunnis are running to buries in the bank rather than going through so a jumper would miss the bounce backs. As usual horses for courses.
  4. sandymere
    I originally wrote this piece for the CM weekly but as Penny Taylor has just done one I thought a couple of forums what be a good alternative as the two are very similar other than the last paragraph. Arthritis the inevitable cost of work? When we think of arthritis in working dogs in the main we mean osteoarthritis and it’s often thought that it is the inevitable result of being a working dog. There is a second type known as rheumatoid arthritis, an autoimmune disease, but thankfully in dogs the incidence
  5. sandymere
    Without a pic its hard to guess, is there any flaking skin, raised area, redness? has it had a knock recently? It could be many things such as ringworm or trauma etc etc. As for the coat in general its likely moulting so it may be a little poor, you could try increasing the oil intake ie a tablespoon of veg oil on it's food daily may help
  6. sandymere
    This is a collie/grey to bull/grey about 24", 18 months, the extra sighthound(whippet) in the cross you describe would perhaps lighten it up a little which isn't a bad thing, he does ok on the lamp but never be a world beater.
  7. sandymere
    The resulting litter should throw a pretty level with good potential, I've a bull/grey to collie/grey and reckon that he could do with a cross back to grey if I was to breed him for that reason. i'd maybe give him another year on the lamp but if hes doing what you want and your happy.
  8. sandymere
    Remenber that the joints etc will move through a very restricted range on a treadmill and adapt that that, which is fine untill they are extended beyound that range such as chasing a rabbit when they will suffer damage. Do plenty of ball work, free running to try to minimise this or get a pair of trainers and get out running with your dog then you'll both be fit for the coming season, it works for me an i'm an old git. regards sandymere..
  9. sandymere
    Lots of good advice I would only add, old fashioned road work, where the dog gets its neck into the collar and pulls as hard as i can for 100yds then easy for a 100, build up gradually to multiple sets. It's body building for dogs and the reason that running dogs and bulls have wide collars to alow pulling with out damage. I've used it in the past to bring a dog on quickly if its in poor nick but ,as above, it builds bulky muscles that are not much good if you want anything above a short sprint. Regards sandymere.
  10. sandymere
    As above would just add a little veg oil added to the diet helps the skin condition, and flea effectively and you wont need to flea to often.
  11. sandymere
    As above it good stuff as part of a balenced diet.
  12. sandymere
    As above isolate the effected dog, its a virus so it will run it's own course, if it doesn't improve it may have a bacterial infection secondary and then may need antibiotics, simple linctus type cough medicine and a warm bed, bit like if you had a bad cold. Hanging garlic or onion will have no effect unless the dog eats and then it may well cause an anaemia. Dogs should not be given any of the onion family because of this as they contain a chemical called thiosulphate for which dogs, unlike humans, lack the ability to digest, when this enters the blood stream it damages the red blood cells le
  13. sandymere
    As above, if you are going to feed bones then raw as it minimises the risks, it doesn't completely stop them but I've never had a problem if fed raw in sensible amounts.
  14. sandymere
    I freeze for a fortnight and don't have a worm problem (nor do the dogs), defrost overnight and feed raw as it's easier, I feed main meal in the morning so defrost during the day if your feeding in the evening. If you skin and gut on getting the catch home or soon as pos, freeze for a fortnight, defrost for around 10 hours, then feed the dog will get a good dose of protein etc without all the crappy bacteria etc that comes with pet meat and you have to worm less often, all good stuff as far as I'm concerned. ps the usual warnings about the risks of feeding bones ie it's a risk so make yo
  15. sandymere
    Mine love the trotters and all is quickly gone even the toenails but ther're all different, one of mine won't eat rabbit which is a bit of a pain. The egg thing is interesting, i found a study back along which showed that cooked were digested better than raw but in truth the difference was minimal, in reality cooking doesn't alter protein digestion to a significant degree, I feed raw meat because it contains bones which would be a problem if cooked and because its easier. I feed cooked veggies as they are markedly more digestable cooked than raw. Eggs are good as a snack post exercise in hot w
  16. sandymere
    sorry little slow replying, I wouldn't give trotter daily but now an again there fine, I get them as part of the general butchers waste they only get trotter about once a month or so but perhaps a little more often wouldn't hurt, its trail and error, I use lamb ribs/necks or general pork waste a couple of timea a week, bones carry risks but it's a balence that is an individual choice. Frozen mince is fine but bear in mind pet mince is likely to have a heavey bacterial load so fresh butchers waste or human quality is likely to be better. Regards sandymere
  17. sandymere
    I used to do a bit of old fashioned road work with the racing dogs, ie get their necks into the coller and pull on the lead for short bursts as you walk them, it got them fit/muscled. I expect weight pulling would give a like result. Bear in mind the muscles will develop quicker than the tendons etc so as stated above build up gradually. Using joints should not dammage them if the use does not over extend the joint ie, on average, a human runner will have less joint problems than a non runner but a squash player due to the sudden changes of direction etc may get more problems. The study
  18. sandymere
    Complete + a little extra fat ie a knob of lard or table spoon of veg oil most days with meat in the form of rabbit & butchers waste a couple of times a week, table scraps (mainly cooked veggies), the odd egg, etc the dogs have plentyu of stamina, recover well and hold condition. IMO there are different ways of doing it but as long as your giving a sensible balence of fat, carbs and protein in one form or the other you wont go far wrong.
  19. sandymere
    The toe joint could well be a knocked up toe but it would be unusual for the leg to swell as well so maybe a couple of things going on ie a knocked up toe and a strain likely caused by the same inciden, a pic would help to give more informed replies but as a general, if not to bad rest and if not improving vets. Regards sandymere.
  20. sandymere
    I Good reply from Sandymere there, cheers I Good reply from Sandymere there, cheers (Daveo) Why thank you Daveo lol, I try to think beyound the give it a bone brigade and now a couple of replys. 1, No Im not a dried food bully hence the admitting that other ways are successful. 2, Please demonstrate how another diet will be better. 3,Please explain what you mean by How is that vets diagnos? (Daveo) Lordy it makes no sense. 4, Not all will work there dogs and many supposed workers will only do a little mooching a couple of time a year, these will do fine on a pet type diet. 5,
  21. sandymere
    Pups tend to go through stages with growth spurts and filling out, it may be yours is just going through a stage and will fill out shortly. I don't feed tinned , I prefere dried comletes as a basis, but know that millions of puppies have been reared successfully on it so if it's what you want to use don't let the evangelical attitude of the raw brigade bully you into believing there diet will be better than yours. A picture of the pup would allow informed advice as to its real condition, many people worry that their pups are not right but it usually turns out to be nothing in the longer term.
  22. sandymere
    I give meat etc, in the form of rabbit and some butchers waste, including pork as it's unlikely to be wormy as of old which was a worry of old, pigs trotter being a favorite of the dogs. I'm lucky as the rabbits come with having lurchers and I've a butcher that alows me access to his bone box so I can pick up that days throw out so it's pretty fresh and then frozen into daily portions on return home. This is in addition to a complete and table scraps ie we usually do a few extra veg that goes to the dogs. Amounts vary a few examples might range from 1. lamp breast, pigs trotter one day, 2
  23. sandymere
    Normal for Norfolk is not an approved medical term any more lol.
  24. sandymere
    Lordy "I think complete food is utter shit full of things that dogs shouldn't be eating." (Hurlock) We all entitled to our own opinion and a forum is a good place to discuss said opinion but that means that others with differing opinions will also post. So I don’t feel that completes are any worse than any other commercial dog food as all are inherently problematic in being, in the main, sourced from dubious sources. Perhaps it’s losing sight of the ball that’s the problem to demonstrate I’ll tell a little story……….Many, many years ago I was a young bricky and had to b
  25. sandymere
    Why is the field magazine a good diet? The complete I feed has a mixture of carbs, fat and protein along with some preservatives, vitamins etc and colours, why what did you think was in it? It's not perfect but does well as a basic to which I add what I feel is appropriate. I rarely talk brands as I don't want to push one above another, using a mixture of two at the mo. Please try and make a point, ie do you disagree that pet quality meat will carry a high bacterial load? regards sandymere
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