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dicehorn

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Everything posted by dicehorn

  1. dicehorn
    With a bullet falling out of the case before the ogive touches the lands when using an AOL gauge, the way around it is to hold the fifle pointing upwards vertically push slider until bullet touches lands - lock off, then measure the bullet from base to ogive then add this figure to the amount the plastic rod on the gauge is protruding from the neck - this will give you your distance from the lands If you are already shooting with an accurate load, then measure what the ogive is on your chasen distance and then deduct this figure from the known distance from the lands to tell you how far ba
  2. dicehorn
    Ideally you should be looking at a head weight around the 95gr mark - however for them your twist rate would have to be around 1 : 10 or faster in order to stabalize the bullet.
  3. dicehorn
    Andy - your 22.250 loads are well within tolerance powder wise and bearing in mind you state you are careful with case prepping and this has happened with two different rifle chambers, if this was my problem (and I use 'cheapo' Remington brass - some approaching their 20th outing) I would look seriosly at your dies or their set up - for the price of these Nosler cases you could get a decent set of 'middle cost' replacement dies Just my 2p worth!!
  4. dicehorn
    Having played about with neck tension on 20 rounds of 6.5 x 55 which were on their 11th firing and with hardly a breeze this morning set a target out at around my zeroed range of 100 yds having done my usual cleaning of the bore. After three shots and whilst taking the fourth shot, what I thought was a fly landed at the side of my mouth and just as I was squeezing the trigger and at the point of no return this fly - a horse fly decided to change my POI by biting me. After recovering managed to put a further two more in to complete a 5 shot group. When I walked to the target the 10mm red bull
  5. dicehorn
    Callam, forget these messy lubes - just get the best - Imperial Sizing Wax Just a little dab on your finger then onto the case is all that is required. After you take a cloth to it to remove the wax, you will probably not bother to tumble the cases - it somehow cleans the brass. Have a look at http://shootersforum.com/showthread.htm?t=43647 Just use this stuff which is used by serious reloaders. I have been reloading for many a year but about 12 years ago I discovered this stuff and am still on the 1st little tin I bought.
  6. dicehorn
    The advice above is sensible. Your problem could be duplicated when you take on a new lot of brass as I very much doubt you originally bought a duff 100 cases. Noting that you have not been reloading long - can I ask some questions. What calibre are you reloading? What brass were you using? After fire forming did you just neck size for the next two firings? After firing the brass for the first time, did you check to see if there were any apparrent pressure signs to these cases? When you say pin prick holes do you actually mean the case has a hole going right through into the ch
  7. dicehorn
    The advice above is sensible. Your problem could be duplicated when you take on a new lot of brass as I very much doubt you originally bought a duff 100 cases. Noting that you have not been reloading long - can I ask some questions. What calibre are you reloading? What brass were you using? After fire forming did you just neck size for the next two firings? After firing the brass for the first time, did you check to see if there were any apparrent pressure signs to these cases? When you say pin prick holes do you actually mean the case has a hole going right through into the ch
  8. dicehorn
    Must confess, although owning both a tumbler and an ultrasonic cleaner I came to the conclusion long time ago that shiney cases don't shoot more accurately. I just take a dab of Brasso to the neck to remove powder residue. To me its a bit like suggesting your clean car will go faster than when its dusty. Now if you want to talk about whether a clean barrel makes a difference.............. Hi clean cases arent just about how good they shoot they are easyer on your dies when sizing & will work better out of the magazine /floorplate of the rifle when chambering a round. Perhaps
  9. dicehorn
    Must confess, although owning both a tumbler and an ultrasonic cleaner I came to the conclusion long time ago that shiney cases don't shoot more accurately. I just take a dab of Brasso to the neck to remove powder residue. To me its a bit like suggesting your clean car will go faster than when its dusty. Now if you want to talk about whether a clean barrel makes a difference..............
  10. dicehorn
    Agree with John - best bet is try them both out - what suits one person may not the next. I have 6.5 and that is basically what I did. I expect the 243 boys will be along soon to tell you both calibres are not up to much
  11. dicehorn
    i'm not so sure you've been given the right info mate, you had best speak to a FLO at fettes and get it confirmed. i know my local dealer would never sell me a mod without a slot on ticket, RFD's are no more qualified than you and me.....just better security and a license to make money ( at least my local is ) of course i could be talking shite until someone tells me different. atb alan. That is how I have always understood it to be. Off on a bit of a tangent, but I know that amongst shooters it is best not to name the make of the mod on your FAC (just put N/K (not known))
  12. dicehorn
    If money is no object then consider the Foxpro Scorpion - that is the ultimate remote caller with the added benifit that it can be controlled from just over 200 yds away and has the added ability of being able to turn the volume up and more importantly the volume down especially when a fox comes into the same field as you are in. Can change from a rat in distress to a mouse squeak with one push of the button. In fact there is an article about it in this months issue of Sporting Rifle - the guy being interviewed is well impressed with his - Ahem.....that guy is me Peter
  13. dicehorn
    The Miroku has a good reputation for reliablity. Grades relate to quality of wood furniture and engraving with grade 1 being at the bottom and 5 at the top - basically which ever grade you get, it will shoot the same, just comes down to what you want from engraving/wood and what is in your pocket.
  14. dicehorn
    Thanks Blackfox - I'm now in the room!! Shot Blazers in 6.5 and 22.250 for over 10 years. Up until last November had the ordinary barrel on the 22.250 but changed to their Varmint barrel. The old barrel shot consistently under .3 if I did my bit. Have tried most powders including H380 but for a number of years been using N150 @37 gr using 55 gr V max. I found that Blazers like to jump down the rifling - in fact my old barrel liked bullets seated back 137 thou from the lands - that's an ogive measurement. I also use Remmington cases and CCI primers - so we are similar - just need to ch
  15. dicehorn
    There in lies is the crux of the matter Rod " He says that as long as the gun fits fairly good" The trouble is how do we know it fits good? Consider this, I am 5' 8" - if I said to a 6' 2" guy "jump in my car and take it for a spin" - what's the first thing he would do when sitting in my car - of course, he would move the seat to have good feel of the pedals and posture, alter the rear view mirror - he would change this to make the car fit him. Yet we rush headlong into buying a shotgun because we like the name/engraving/wood and try and make ourselves fit the gun when in reality it shou
  16. dicehorn
    The first book I got was ABC's of Reloading. Loads of info and a good base for further reading. Have a search for it on amazon, relatively cheap and free postage Another vote for this book - ideal for the novice. Also U Tube have some very good vids on reloading - especially by Ammosmith
  17. dicehorn
    The point of my post dear chap was to say (as I did) you wont find anyone who will want to sell you a competition die set unless they are changing calibre - once you own a die set such as these you will never sell them - basically what I originally posted but I have added a few extra words this time.
  18. dicehorn
    Unless someone is changing calibres you have no chance - they are regarded as probably the best - if they were to change them it would only be downwards.
  19. dicehorn
    Sorry John - hopefully now ok
  20. dicehorn
    I expect there are a couple of guys out there that may be interested to know how I make a free standing target holder for air or full bore. Made this one this morning and if I had not taken photos, it would have taken me about 1/2 hour to make Materials required. 3.25 metres of 50mm x 25 mm (2 by 1) timber 16 x 70 mm (3") screws 2 small hinges with screws http://i438.photobucket.com/albums/qq101/wyndog/TargetHolder001.jpg Cut timber 2 x 61 cms 2 x 48 cms 4 x 23 cms On the 61cms lengths mark front and edge at 5 cms , 26 cms and 48cms. With a 5mm drill bit, drill two
  21. dicehorn
    What do I write when adding moderator to the application? In the same part of the application that you are applying for the centre fire put 'Sound Moderator for the above calibre' - dont forget in the ammunition section to put 'Expanding ammunition'
  22. dicehorn
    Think you have to bear in mind that some Police authorities do NOT regard fox as vermin - so you should put 'fox and vermin control' Not wanting to steal Clint's letter of authority can I also suggest: TO WHOM IT MAY CONCERN I (..name of farmer..) of (..Full address of farm + post code..) being (..acreage..) hereby give permission to (..your FULL name and address + postcode..) for the purposes of carrying out fox and vermin control on the above land with both centre fire rifle and shotgun. Signed ................ Date .................. Tel No ................
  23. dicehorn
    Well your OAL is what the VV manual suggests, so I guess as long as the brass has been resized properly in the neck, OAL is not the issue. So next steps are to try increasing the load slightly to see if this works and also to check the primer seat to see if it has been stretched to the point where it's not holding the primers securely enough! Let us know how you get on? Jonathan My advice would be to bin your old brass - especially as you have no idea how many times it has been loaded. Get some new brass - Lapua is very good. If you continue to use this 'old' brass
  24. dicehorn
    Could be a nice gun; good maker and sounds like Damascus barrels. Might pay you to do nothing at all with it until you've positvely identified what it is specifically - you don't want to be running the risk of ruining valuable historic features for no reason. Can you post some pics? J. Yes a couple of pictures would be good. Is it a hammer gun? Given to the right people to restore properly would sound like doing your grandad's memory a service.
  25. dicehorn
    You said you were given some loads from the previous owner - do you know how many times these cases had been reloaded? All cases have a limited life, even if you are annealing them. Cases from different manufacturers have a different life span. After several loads just neck sizing, cases need to be full lengthed or better still to give better longetivity shoulder bump them. As said (provided the blackened cases have no neck splits) this is sometimes a sign of under power. Having said that, I use 44 gr of N160 behind a 120gr Nosler in my 6.5 but I do seat the bullet well in the case (22
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