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Everything posted by dicehorn
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In my neck of the woods with head off and legs to the knees off Roe £1.20 per lb red £1.00 per lb
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Actually Deks no I have not. The GUN suffix is for he County of Devon originally On I final note, and just for the record, I would prefer to shoot 50 high pigeons than 50 high Pheasants - they are simply more challenging Peter
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Oh dear - perhaps I am one of them !!!! Criteria I have a personal number plate that starts off with GUN on a newish BMW -so I must be one of them I belong to a syndicate that shoots >100 pheasant/partridge each day and buys a couple of days on commercial shoots each season on 3 to 400 bird days AND will use a stuffer (loader for one gun) - so I must be one of them. When I am at my shoot or a commercial shoot I like to drink port - so I must be one of them. The other side of the coin I load on 4 commercial shoots both stuffing and double guns for on average of 60 da
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Try Reloading Solutions - they have a vast array of items for the shooter and send out pronto and are helpful on the phone
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the oal has alot to do with it. my friend had groups about 1 and 1/2 inchs at 100 yards. he then seated the bullet deeper and the group size went right down to 1/2 at 150 yards he has got now ! Just as an add on to Jamie's comments, my rifle albeit a 22.250 has the bullet seated 137 thou back from the lands and will easily group 1.5 inches at 300 yards. I believe we can all get a little carried with trying to seat the bullet head right up to the lands
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Personally I would go for bismouth ( none will replace lead) cost is (I remember) about £17 for 25. Sounds expensive but if you can shoot at a ratio of 4 to 1 then £17 for 6 ducks seems a good deal to me Peter just use normal shells and have a few steelies in ya pocket to show people then show them and say hell these steel shot are good or just make a big deal when you get there about how expensive they are just for one drive. no one will say anything apart from oh did you buy steel??? i just shot them wi normal ones as no ones bothered hahahaha The problem is if you adopt t
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Personally I would go for bismouth ( none will replace lead) cost is (I remember) about £17 for 25. Sounds expensive but if you can shoot at a ratio of 4 to 1 then £17 for 6 ducks seems a good deal to me Peter
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Personal thing really. The problem with shooting with a lamp is judging distances at night - targets tend to look further away. Therefore my .22 (normally zeroed at 50 yds) is bought down to 40 yards for night time use - the reason for this is that if you think the (say) rabbit is 50 yds away when in fact is only 35 yards away the bullet could well miss above the top of the rabbit because of the loopy flight of the bullet - the 40 yard zero allows for distance judgement errors Hope that did not sound too complicated Peter PS glad this is up and running again - personally I tho
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Problems zeroing rifle for two calibres
dicehorn replied to jon15's topic in Rimfire, Centrefire & Shotguns
I have R93 in both 22.250 and 6.5x55 Interesting problem!! As you are aware Blaser mounts are horribly expensive ( I'm told over £300) so perhaps buying another set and a decent scope dedicated to one or other of the barrels (like I have) may not be an option for you. Blaser barrels float - end of story Don't think it is the mod I think the least expensive option you should try is to take off your scope from the mount - examine the lugs where the mounts fit and ensure they are totally free of dirt, also the receiving grooves on the barrel, and the area where the scope make -
The simple answer is - not a lot If you are a reloader that just trims the cases - that's fine However, if you neck turn your cases this becomes a difficult procedure as nickel is harder than brass and will muck up the turning tool's cutter The bench rest boys have looked at them and moved on Yes they do look nice and shiny but in real terms its what goes in the case and what bullet head goes in the top that makes the difference- I don't think the extra cost justifies the small advantages of nickel Just my 2p worth Peter
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Many bore solvents concentrate on powder/lead removal with a bit of copper removal as well...copper solvent does what it says!!! I use Hoppe's but I suspect they are all pretty much the same! HMR is a tiny bullet and quite fast up the barrel...and copper coated (the copper coat is generally applied to fast rounds to stop the lead bullet deforming with the heat of air friction and becoming inconsistant in delivery..as a bonus it assists penetration)....this being the case the bullets tends to leave copper deposits up the barrel and if the barrel has not been broken in effectively these de
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I don't believe there is anything in the Home Office guidelines that requires you to have a gun cabinet that must stand upright. You could lay it flat under the stairs as long as it is secured to the fabric (brickwork) of the building
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dont no about a kit mate but reloading solutions in oxford will sort you out. there prices are some of the best around. go for a dewey rod. proshot spear jag, proshot patchs, proshot nylon brush, and get a boreguide to. and some copper solvent. PS DONT FORGET TO GET THE RIGHT LENGTH ROD SO IT FITS FINE WITH A BOREGUIDE Totally agree with what Jamie g says - the above is essential for maintaining an accurate centre fire rifle
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Nightforce NXS OWNERS ONLY PLEASE!!!!
dicehorn replied to Deker's topic in Reloading and Gun Maintenance
I have a NXS 12-42x56 on my 17 rem, 2 NXS's 5.5 - 22 x 56 on both my 22.250's and a Swarovski 6-24 x 56 on my 6.5 x55 To be honest I think the optics are brilliant on the Swarovski but having said that I would never get rid of the 3 NXS's. If I were to fault them it would be the fact that they are fiddly when it comes to altering the illuminated reticle brightness Peter -
I have a Tikka in .17 Rem also a 22.250 and assuming no wind I will always pick up the 22.250. My .17 took me nearly 250 shots of home made ammo before it would group well. It is a fun gun and when zeroed 1/2 inch high at 100 yds and will be spot on at 200 yards My advice?? stick with your 223
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thanks alot for the advice! I will most prob go for the .270 or the 6.5 becuse after a coupe of staking outings I will be joining a syndicate in scotland which has red and roe on it... its £600 for the year which you can split in 2 payments, sounds good so i will prob try it for 6 months first, good thing about it is you can take a guest up for a tenner! anyone intrested let me know i will pass on details! Given the choice of the two cals. i'd personally go for the 6.5x55 it's a great round and has proven accuracy, a few i know who had the .270 traded them in as they just didn't lik
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Load Data for Reloading .22-250
dicehorn replied to lgray88's topic in Reloading and Gun Maintenance
I know all we 22.250 homeloaders have got our own favourite powder/bullet heads. I was given a recipe for my 22.250 in Blaser R93 by a guy who shot this recipe through his Remington but with Shillon Barrel and various other modifications, winning many long range competitions My rifle will now group .6" at 150 yards and just over 1.6" at 300 yards. Very recently a friend bought a CZ 550 in 22.250 and after 40 shots shooting the barrel in with this recipe using new brass (unfire formed) he is getting sub .5" at 150 yards - I was actually amazed that three very different rifles in 22.250 coul -
Personally glad about the law. I will tell you this - a muntjac would rip a whippet to shreds - they are not to be messed with with light running dogs.
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SS I used to buy fly nets for keeping my partridges/pheasants in - then I realized I had a wife with nothing much to do!! (Its OK she never reads this forum ) I bought a few yards of mosquito netting off fleabay and she set about making these game nets with draw strings - she even progressed onto making them to accommodate my roe, fallow and reds all with draw strings. I believe the large ones to take a red cost me no more than £3 each - her labour was free!! Peter
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2 questions about 6.5 x 55 calibre
dicehorn replied to Mil Dot's topic in Rimfire, Centrefire & Shotguns
I have a R93 in 6.5 x 55 and shoot 120 gr Nosler ballistic (homeloaded) my friend has the same calibre and shoots 129 Hornaday SST (homeloaded also)- He uses it both for deer and foxes whilst I use a 22.250 for fox, but have shot many foxes with the 6.5 out to 250 yards. Both of the above bullets inflict severe damage on a fox and hit in the engine room drop on the spot. The 6.5 really works better with the heavier bullets because of the twist rate in the barrels. My 6.5 is zeroed at 120 yards and just needs 4 clicks of elevation to be spot on at 200 yards. Most people on this forum with c -
I will echo Snap shot re the redding dies - get the S type neck die, the one with the bushing in them that ensure each case mouth has the same tension - if you have the same amount of powder and the same bullet length in each cartridge but your neck tensions are different - they ain't going to shoot great groups - fact!!! I used to think RCBS were the business till I got educated Peter
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What Caliber to use to learn to shoot big game ?
dicehorn replied to ST111's topic in Reloading and Gun Maintenance
Perhaps so that we can get a better idea of what to say if you can tell us what game you plan to shoot - plains game or dangerous game like the 375 suggests?? First hunt will be Kudu Bluewildebeest Impala Blesbuck Springbuck Warthog Gemsbuck Redhartebeest thanks NO MONKEYS Then if it is to be plains game, (looks like you will be in South Africa) if it were me I would look seriously at a 308 or 30-06 -
Deker's Country Sports Store Deker's Country Sports Larder Deker's Outside Country Sports Deker's Berkshire Country Sports The Alternative Country Sports Shop Now back to my reloading!! Peter
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Nobody has asked what the margins of your pond are like - have you got brambles up to the margins, have you got trees/bushes near the margins? If you are not getting ducks to it and the ones you see are just flying by, putting barley down may not change their minds. The couple of decoy ducks idea is a sound suggestion but only when you feel the pond is right for your visitors Therefore see where you can improve visibility (Not yours - the ducks) for flying in and possibly leaving in a hurry. Is there a river nearby - do mink get into the pond. There is more to it than chucking a bag of ba
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Advice on choosing a scope...
dicehorn replied to Dan_Smiff's topic in Reloading and Gun Maintenance
Dan Taking the above Nikko as an example 4.5 - 16 means that the scope's magnification will go from 4.5 to 16 . The x50 bit at the end is the objective lens which is the lens closest to the object being viewed. (ie the nearest to your muzzle) It is measured in millimetres in diameter. A larger objective lens allows more light to enter the scope. But as with anything in the shooting world regarding gathering more light into your scope- the quality of the glass in the scope will make a huge difference - so it is really a matter of what you spend you get. HTH Peter
