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dicehorn

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Everything posted by dicehorn

  1. dicehorn
    Re H2o it is best to take say 5 fired cases (with the primer still in) weigh them then fill to the brim with water, weigh them again and deduct the weight of the case, when you have the 5 differences then take an average - that will be your H2o weight to feed into quickload. PS if you are a little over their max of 60191 (say 2000) don't worry - its all about litigation!!
  2. dicehorn
    Yes those figures are the same as what I stated in my reply of the 5th Oct. Looking at your Quickload calculation, the figure of 2.710 for cartridge length is that what yours measures? If not that can alter all the results. Also regarding H2o case capacity (54) that also can have a material affect on results - try substituting 54 with 55 and 53 and see how they alter results
  3. dicehorn
    Hello LS If I were to feed into Quickload an extra grain (43 gr) of H414 into the calculation, you can then compare it to the original figures I gave you for 42 gr Amount of propellant burnt is 98.95% Case fill will be 90.3% Ballistic Efficiency will be 24.3% Max psi for this case is 60191 - 43gr will be 58360 which is still safe So you can see that 1 gr extra is certainly not going to cause problems - the only thing you may have to do is alter the distance from the lands. I mentioned Reloader 16 - here is a comparison to the above figures using 43 grs of Reloader 1
  4. dicehorn
    Hi According to Quickload, H414 although a recommended powder for this weight of bullet but this equals: Amount of propellant burnt is 98.35% - should really be at least 99.5% Case fill on 42gr is only 88.3% - should really be 95%+ Ballistic Efficiency 23.8% - should be as near to 30% as possible ie 25%+ Max psi for this case is 60191 your recipe is 54282 so it is at least a safe load Alliant Reloader 16 may well be a better powder for this 95 gr bullet I have reloaded for a couple of 243's but they had favoured the 75 gr V Max
  5. dicehorn
    If you are looking for digital scales that simply weigh your powder, I would recommend the RCBS Range Master 750 ( I have this one and have used it for the last 6 years - faultless) If you are after a scales that weighs and dispenses, again I would suggest the RCBS ChargeMaster - more expensive than others but a better machine see - http://www.6mmbr.com/powderdispensers01.html
  6. dicehorn
    Walshie - There is nothing wrong using N133 in your 223 it is an inherently consistent clean burning powder well suited for the 50/53 gr bullets. And yes - in the perfect world 100 yds gives a better indication of what you are trying to achieve without the vagaries of including variable wind situations. A couple bits of advice! As the 223 is a small case, consider small increases of powder in multiples of .2 gr (1/2 gr can be extreme) Start off at least 40 thou from the lands and ensure the prepping of your cases are a slow and methodical exercise. Good cleaning regime. If possible shoot o
  7. dicehorn
    Could be over pressure. However could be another problem - are you neck sizing only? If so, it could be that the shoulder datums could have crept forward - are the rounds also causing quite a bit of resistance when closing the bolt on them? Remedy - full length your cases. Assume this is a 22,250? If so are you keeping your case length to around 1.905" Going back to the possibilities of over pressure, had a look around the web and with RL 15 , the weight of powder you are using is around what people are shooting with the 50 gr bullet with the 55 gr bullet most seem around the 34 - 35 gr
  8. dicehorn
    Could not have been that great - no response from the OP !
  9. dicehorn
    The marks on the case are more than likely caused on extraction of the spent case after firing. Provided they are not deep, they are good to go. Caused by the previous owner's rifle. Sometimes this can be caused when slowly extracting the case from the chamber or crud coating the chamber making it tighter than SAMMI spec
  10. dicehorn
    Maktayla - if by late Spring (late April early May) you have got some reloading gear together and fancy a trip across the bridge to Somerset, you are most welcome to come over to my place and have a day with me and I can take you through the reloading process of what I do and get out onto some ground that will take us out to 400 yds if need be. Lunch is included!! In the mean time you are welcome to email me if I can be of any help to you. Peter
  11. dicehorn
    I have the HD50S and have had it now for a couple of years - great bit of kit for spotting before going onto the Archer on the rifle. I would never contemplate having a thermal rifle scope and it come down to this - with a thermal rifle scope can you tell the difference between a fox and the farmer's dog. Them that have the thermal rifle scope in my opinion are on borrowed time if they shoot foxes. No problem with rabbits or rats. I write the above because I was in that situation myself - saw 'fox' through the TI which the Archer confirmed it to be a collie
  12. dicehorn
    Bit late with this and you may have already sorted it, but have you tried Reloading Solutions or Mark Ellis who trades under the web name of Spud Productions?
  13. dicehorn
    The word 'comp' is short for competition. These will do the same job as RCBS 's ordinary dies. The difference is that the comp dies are built to a higher standard and have a micrometre so as to be able to make precise adjustments to the die. Also they are very much more money and you will have to decide whether the additional cost is worth it for the intended use of the round you are making.
  14. dicehorn
    The reason their is little data for N140 and 223 is simply because this powder is not suited to the popular weights of bullets used in this calibre - if you were to search for good powders for the 308 and 30-06 using 160 gr bullets then the N140 will be prominent. You will be lucky to find a powder to drive a 224 bullet over 55gr in a 1 in 14 tube. Your best bet is to swap/buy a powder like N133 and load something around 50 or 55 gr bullets with it. If possible stick to the European powders as there is uncertainty about when American powders will get back onto our shelves - not so with p
  15. dicehorn
    Meant to add to the sentence ........'it just so happens in the chamber he has it shoots sub 50 mm at 350 metres - yet to take it out to 500 metres' (sent it before I re read it doh!!)
  16. dicehorn
    Provided you load your cases at sensible velocities you will find that most .223 cases do not grow that much (some new brass will actually shrink length wise) and some even struggle to get to the min of 44.45mm. My advise would be with cases where the min is 44.45 and the max is 44.70mm is to select a length between these two figures but nearer to the max than the min - say 44.63mm. That way you will give the shorter cases a chance to catch up, after all you should be looking to make each case the identical twin of the last one. You should bear in mind that the max and mins quoted in reloa
  17. dicehorn
    I switched from Archer's laser to the Nightmaster IR for three reasons. 1. Fisheyes - on the nightmaster just a quick wipe of of water rather than having to give up with and go home to sort it. 2. I did have several foxes that upon having the laser put on, made a dash for it and were immediately gone. 3. In my opinion the nightmaster gives better definition at long distances
  18. dicehorn
    You have answered your own question really. If you are hell bent in firing the same load in mixed cases, can I suggest you weigh the cases and batch them weight wise. It generally is not regarded a smart move to do this especially if one reloads near the max in a light weighing case and then puts the same weight of powder in a much heavier case - it could give very dangerous pressure spikes. On a lesser note, different cases (because of their differing weights) will alter POI
  19. dicehorn
    Slipper - If you have not changed your cartridge recipe (powder/primer/bullet make or primer) it could just be that 'you had a bad day'. Have another go and things may turn out differently. Also bear in mind that we have and continue to have quite windy days and whilst it may not make too much difference at 100 yds, at 200 yds in wind, your groups could open quite considerably.
  20. dicehorn
    Geoff - the 22.8 could well be what you are looking for - 200 yds could be interesting . You may even wish to consider trying different primers with the 22.8 gr - perhaps Federal Gold Match which may just produce a tighter group although you should not complain at 13 mm !! Well done.
  21. dicehorn
    Yes Geoff - that is the accepted norm - I was told that by Border Barrels - it was in desperation (last option) that I tried the 50 gr bullets for that barrel. That Hawkeye is a card and so very helpful with his advice - let me think - hm....... a 12 year old spotty face with a BSA Meteor ?
  22. dicehorn
    As suggested by Mike - if your group whilst tight at 100 yds is moving out to 3.5" then it could well be a stability issue. Assuming at this distance you are competent at that range and wind is not an issue. Two issues I had - my 22.250 would shoot moly <.5 at 100 but at 200 the bullets were keyholing - this was a stability issue as I thought (at the time) Varget would be good. Then in a Border barrel on a clients 22.250 it would not group using 55gr in either V Max, Sierra or Nosler - when I changed to 50 gr heads it consistently shot >.3". If you cannot find the answer, you may
  23. dicehorn
    Not suggesting that you switch bullets or powder (whatever powder you are using at present) but in my limited experience with reloading for this calibre, I have found that both .223 's have preferred the 50 gr heads producing groups well > than .5" - just a thought
  24. dicehorn
    Hi Geoff No I do not have one of those, I have a friend who does and I must say they are very good and he has tested against my scales and they seem to be spot on. I use an RCBS Range Master 750 electric scales - apart from the powder weighing they are easy for me when weighing cases and bullets.
  25. dicehorn
    Powder Trickler Not that I am impatient but I find powder tricklers can sometimes be tedious when trying to trickle out the last 2/10 s of a grain. So my simple tip is to wrap electrical tape to the base at the back of the trickler so that it gives it a slight tilt and those last few tenths come out a little more quicker.
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